Categories
General

Byzantium Ensemble for Sarah of Wicked Smileys

This spring, I worked on a lovely folkloric style ensemble for an accomplished dancer, but new performer, Sarah of Wicked Smileys. She performed with Troupe Celine twice this spring, first at Spring Rakkasah and at an Asian American cultural festival. Her ensemble is composed of four garments. Her Byzantium bra features a row of multi-colored inch-wide ribbon, 8 inch chainette fringe topped with three rows of Pakistani coins.

Sarah’s belt is an assemblage of components that began with a blue embroidered belt with a row of kuchi drops. To extend this tiny belt, we mounted a collar from Pakistan onto grosgrain ribbon and filled in the space between with additional drops. To add texture and dimension, we further embellished the belt with a row of Turkomen buttons that matched the buttons we used to accent the stretch velvet baladi dress.

To get the rich, dark appearance that Sarah craved, we used a vivid red double-plush 4-way stretch velvet cut with the grain going upwards. Because the velvet had such a great hand and enough stretch to really mold around the body, I kept the cut simple, with shaping down the side seams and no darts. The neckline was cut low below the bust to reveal the bra. To add style and make the garment look beautifully polished, we added the sumptuous finishing details of fully lined sleeves and Turkoman buttons. The result is simple and elegant.

Sarah already had a functional pair of black harem pants. On her feet, she choose to wear classic Hermes style sandals. I also crafted jewelry using a kuchi drop with her signature Smiley motif and a pair of earrings.

But, what makes this collaboration so effective is the amazing headdress Sarah created to match this ensemble. Her work is breathtakingly complex and lovely.

Ultimately, this ensemble took into account Sarah’s figure. The long lean lines of red velvet emphasized Sarah’s height and the black fringe on her bra helped her waist appear slim and sculpted. Being stretch velvet, it’s both easy wear and easy care (machine wash, hang dry.) I look forward to seeing her wear it in the future.

Need a Headdress?
Wicked Smileys by Sarah Lyons

Need Harem Pants?
Simply Stylish by Kathi Richards

Need a Byzantium Bra?
Byzantium Collection Bra by Davina
Dress, Belt, Jewelry by Davina

By Davina

Davina ~ Dawn Devine is a belly dance costume designer, dance instructor and author of more than a dozen publications on Middle Eastern dance.