Today I received a question via my Facebook group “Studio Davina- Behind the Seams” and I want to share the answer. In that group, I and the other members discuss and upload pictures of our costuming projects and share tips and tricks for making belly dance costumes, accessories, and other kinds of clothing. Today’s question from member S.S.:
“Why do you make solid side straps for bras, as opposed to stretch? (I know there is probably a reason, I just don’t know what it is. 
“
I think this is a really good question to ask when you are planning your own costume making projects. In my book, Embellished Bras, I took my workshop of the same name and included the technique for covering a lingerie band. I consider this a “basic technique” that every belly dance costumer should know. However, in my advanced class, (and I’m sorry there’s no book for that one… ahem… YET) I present my technique for drafting custom patterns for bra bands. Is it harder? Not really, but it wound up in my advanced class.
So, why do I make solid straps and bands? Here’s my list of reasons why I almost always remove the lingerie band and install a non-stretchy, reinforced bra band.
Adds Strength to Support the Weight – When costuming, I know I am going to be adding weight to the cups. Commercial bras are not intrinsically engineered to support the weight of the bust AND the weight of fringe, coins, and other heavy embellishments.
It will Last Longer – A harsh reality is that sweat of the dancer, either acidic or alkaline, will damage the fabric, elastic, and thread used in the construction of the lingerie band. If I want the costume I make to really last, I use fibers that will take longer for perspiration to damage.
I Control the Shape – As a designer, I want to have the ability to control the shape of the costume. If I use the existing band, I’m limited to that size. I like more territory to show off my taste and skill.
It’s a Dance Costume – As a designer, I like using bigger and thicker so the bras look more like clothing and less like lingerie. Alternately, I might want a super-thin back band. Either way, I try to mask the lingerie origins of the base bra.
My Techniques Are Worth It – If I’m going to spend a lot of time working on a costume, I don’t want my threads breaking from being over-stretched. Elastic is simply not as sturdy, and if I’m going to spend a lot of time, I want my work to last as long as possible.
Dancer Tipping Preference – If you accept tips in your costume, which some dancers do, you don’t want it to be easy for a customer to pull and stretch your garments. Many dancers treat the back band as a “Safe Zone” to effectively accept a tip tuck, without risking a grope. Eliminating stretch adds piece of mind for the restaurant performer.
In my sewing business, I have three “grades” of costumes. For beginners or limited use costumes – I will totally leave the band in. It’s faster, it’s affordable, and in a limited run costume or for a one-shot performance, leaving the original lingerie bra band intact is perfectly fine.
However, I also have semi-pro and pro-levels of construction that always includes a non-stretching band. When designing costumes, just consider your needs, budget, and skill when project planning. And always remember:
There’s more than ONE way to
do it the RIGHT way.
Ultimately, as a designer, you get to make all the choices! No matter what you choose, just do it.
Happy Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 10, 2017