Author: Davina

After taking a month off in December of 2018, I’m now diving back into a project that I began last summer.  I sometimes am asked why I need so much “lead time” to make a costume, and the answer is simple.  Everything takes time.  From designing the initial concept to meetings, fittings, patternmaking, and sewing, there’s simply a lot to do for each garment.  In this blog post, I’m going to map out the steps that I take when working with a client to design a custom costume.

Last year, I completed this lovely ensemble for Bay Area professional dancer, Shalimar. I was thrilled that she was happy with the performance and audience response to this costume.  She commissioned a new costume that we are calling “The Golden Goddess.”

Shalimar’s Idea: A head to toe gold and rhinestone costume suitable for close-up performances in dark restaurants. 

Design Brief

When I’m working on a project with a customer, it’s a good idea to create a design brief and project contract.  This can be a formal negotiation with a contract or an informal goals list.  Every designer is different, but at a bare minimum, you want your contract to include budget, timeline, and costume summary. For more detail about the design brief, check out this blog post.

Initial Sketch

Once you have hammered out the fine points of your contract, it’s time to design. For the Golden Goddess costume, I did these initial design sketches.

I generally have some ideas on the types of materials we are considering for use in this costume.  For the Golden Goddess, we choose a micro-sequin base with individual rhinestones, rhinestone chain, and sequin on string.

This type of sketch is called a flat, and I like to draw in pencil on gridded paper to help maintain the proportions of the costume.  These initial sketches are a point of discussion and development when working with the customer.  Often these designs will be refined and adjusted as the project progresses.

Budget

Agreeing on a budget is always an important part of the contract between designer and client. In my business, the budget is broken into two parts.

Cost of Materials

When calculating the total cost of a project, I always begin with materials.  The materials, fabrics, and trims that you choose to use in your costuming project play the biggest role in determining how lush or sparse a costume will appear.  Often, more expensive fabrics are so spectacular, they require less work to craft into a show-stopping costume.  As a designer, I always have estimates of what each element in the costume will cost when budget planning.

Cost of Labour and Time

The second part of the budget is my labor and time. My time falls into three categories.  The first is design services, and that’s the time it takes to sketch the designs, source materials, project planning and set up. The second category of the budget is time. This includes meeting times, fitting, and shopping and sourcing time. The third section is sewing and construction. This is simply the time I spend during the build of the costume.  With experience, I’ve learned how much time it takes to design, source materials, and construction, so my estimates are accurate, barring design changes.

Sourcing Materials

Once my client and I have decided on a design, set a budget, and tentatively chosen the materials and supplies needed for a design, we begin sourcing materials. Sometimes my clients arrive with fabric and all we need to buy are the things we need to complete a garment. Often my customers like to buy their materials on their own.  For this Golden Goddess costume, my client authorized me to make all the purchases necessary to complete the costume.

For the Golden Goddess ensemble, we are using gold micro-sequin cloth, individual rhinestones, and rhinestones on chain.  For speed and convenience, I wound up purchasing most of the materials and supplies from Amazon.  I do not have a great selection of fabric stores in my area so I will frequently resort to internet shopping to get the price and quantities I need to craft my ensembles.  We had to allow time for all the materials and supplies to arrive before beginning the costume.  Sourcing took about three months last summer.

Create a Project Box

As we gather the materials and supplies, I create a project box that will contain all of the design elements in one convenient location.  I will label it with the customer’s name and place it on a shelf in my sewing studio.  When it’s time to work on a costume, I can easily pull down their box and dive into the project with a minimum of hassle and running around.

All of these steps are part of my design flow that helps me move from a rough concept to finished costume.  Every designer, costumer, or seamstress will have a different process.  I hope that this process break down inspires you!

Happy Costuming and Dance,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
January 9, 2019 

 

I count myself fortunate this holiday 2018 season to participate in two different gift exchanges with friends in dance.  This year, everyone is operating on a tight budget, so for both of these exchanges, each attendee is bringing one gift at the $10 to $15 price point. My gift giving goal is are to share things that I personally love and use. So here is the shortlist of some of the items that I’m considering taking to these events.

Super-Glam Eye Lashes

Red Cherry False Eyelashes are what I think of as the “Lashes of the Stars”  Years ago, Princess Farhana turned me onto this brand and of their myriad styles.  Although there are dozens of different styles, #43 are my personal favorite.  Durable, glamorous, this brand has a comfortable lash band that molds easily to the unique shape of the upper lash line. Best of all, dramatic lashes can be worn on stage and at your next holiday party.

Individual makeup remover wipes. 

These wipes have been a lifesaver in many a backstage fitting room.  Product spill?  Unavoidable smudge?  Quick makeup change between sets?  In a pinch, these makeup wipes will save the day!  Best part, being individually wrapped they won’t dry out and are easy to share with fellow performers in need.

A Journal to track their dance progress

One of the habits of many highly successful dancers is developing a system of setting goals and recording dance milestones.  Why not give a glamorous gift of a beautiful boxed journal that will look and feel luxurious to start the New Year with a splash!

Three Favorite Blue-Red Lipsticks 

As dancers, don’t we love to experiment with new color cosmetics?  I really enjoy picking up a trio of affordable drug-store priced blue-red lipsticks to wrap individually and present in a bag.  I like to pick from three different companies, three different version of red.  However, I always make sure it’s a bluish red that will make teeth appear whiter. I like to include the classic 50’s color “Cherries in the Snow” from Revlon which is a pinky-red. NYX Lip Cream in Amsterdam and Revlon Ultra HD Gel Lip in Adobe.

Statement Necklace

A beautiful rhinestone statement necklace will make for a stunning and glamorous gift.  Recently, the cost of rhinestone jewelry has come dropped.  You can now pick up some simply gorgeous pieces in the under $15 price point.  If the tastes of your group are slanted more coins and chain, try something more like the necklace below right.  If you are crafty, you can make your own custom creations and share your artistic creativity.

Diaper Pins

These old-school pins were essential for dancewear kits when I was starting out as a baby belly dancer back before the turn of the century.  Today, they are just as practical for pinning through a belt, skirt, and undergarments to prevent twisting, turning, or worse, wardrobe malfunctions. You can put them in a fancy pouch or an up-cycled tin to make it more dramatic. Pass on the tip that these can be customized to match costumes with a coat or two of acrylic paint or even nail polish.

A Wrap Around Cover-up  

These wrap-around cover-ups are amazing, fit over any costume, and come in a variety of colors.  They pack super-small, so won’t take up much room in your dance bag and it keeps your hand free.  If you are crafty, you can make one of these out of fabric from your stash and save even more cash.

Water Bottle

Hydration is one of those things we all work on.  As dancers, our class bags have a water bottle or two. A beautiful, yet practical and potentially fun essential piece of dance equipment. Stainless steel is a great way to upgrade from disposable plastic and move to more sustainable, durable and easily recyclable products. 

Stretch-out Strap

One of my favorite piece of dance equipment is a stretch-out strap. Unlike the elastic stretching bands, this is a firm band with loops for your hands and feet.  It allows me to stretch, but without the necessity of having to grip and pull with my hands.  

A Tasty Treat

Most of my friends enjoy a nice chocolate bar or a cup of cocoa.  Because cocoa is more seasonal, and individual packets allow my friends to easily take a taste of the holidays to work or even share and regift into their families holiday stockings.  If you are outside of the San Francisco/Bay Area, have a taste of my favorite local chocolatier.

Happy Holidays!

Celebrating the holidays with family and friends makes this one of the best parts of the year.  I hope that you have so much fun enjoying the festive gatherings that are the hallmark of this season.

Best Wishes and Happy Shopping,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Nov. 24, 2018

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PS:  THANK YOU!

I just want to thank you for your continued support in my blogging and other writing adventures. If you clicked through and used any of these Amazon.com affiliate links, thank you so very much for helping me cover the expenses associated with my website.  It adds no cost to your shopping, but helps me out so much!  If you would like to further help my blog, be sure to share the image below on Pinterest.  Happy Holidays!

PPS: Do you like this Pinterest Graphic?  I made it using the free web-based application Canva.  If you are interested in a free class/demo of to use Canva for this and other projects, I posted one at over at the Belly Dance Business Academy.  click here.