Categories
Costuming DIY General

Year-End Review – Inventory and Studio Restock

As part of my year-end review process, I conduct an inventory of the essential tools and supplies for sewing and pattern making. I haven’t done this in quite some time, so this is the year to knuckle down and tackle this project.

Over the past months of intensive sewing, I’ve noticed some of my scissors have dulled beyond resharpening, rulers have cracked, and some supplies I’ve reached for I’ve used up, or worse, are completely missing. I do plan on having a couple of pairs of scissors sharpened, but many of my tools are just simply worn out. My plan at this moment is to purchase these items a bit at a time over the next six months until I have refreshed my entire collection.

Tools

Tailor Scissors Set

A trio of essential scissors from a really good company – Graf.  I’m getting a set of these for myself!   What I like about this particular kit is that includes my three styles of cutting tools. I do so much cutting that I do wear my tools out and it’s time for some new nippers! My current collection primarily consists of Gingher brand shears, but I’ve heard great things about Graf brand products and I’m ready to try something new.  On Amazon

Pattern Making Curves

If you’re planning on giving some pattern making or manipulation a try in 2018, now is a good time to pick up a set of curves.  I’ve got a few essential metal curves, I have lost or misplaced quite a few curves over the years. Since I’m going to be picking up this set.  This set has practically everything you would need to make practically every style of garment imaginable! On Amazon

Bias Tape Maker Set

In 2017, I found myself heading out the nearest fabric store to purchase ready-made bias tape. Although I have a bias tape maker, it’s for making really big bias tape!  I’m not planning on binding blankets in the near future, but I do use bias tape for finishing necklines, shoulders, and hems. With those needs in mind, I decided that what I really need is a set of tools so I can make any size tape out of any fabric I like! I’m really looking forward to building a bigger and more versatile set.  On Amazon

Chubby Handled Seam Ripper

There is no doubt about it, seam rippers go dull with use, and are virtually impossible to resharpen. In 2018, I’m going to pick up a new model, but with a nice big comfortable handle. I use the seam ripper extensively during costume rehab projects and having a good grip is essential.  This is probably the first thing I will get on this list.  On Amazon

Supplies

Hand Sewing Needles

My favorite hand-sewing needles are John James Millinery Needles. I bought my first pack many-many years ago when on a trip to London.  I went to Liberty of London main store and visited the sewing department on the top floor. I bought a few trinkets and small supplies, and part of my tiny haul was a set of hand-sewing needles.  I fell in love and I need to replenish my supply.  I’m going to pick up a craft needle assortment so I have everything I need.On Amazon

Rotary Cutter Blades

That moment when your rotary cutter starts to skip is the worst!  I went through my collection of supplies and realized I have used up my backstock of blades. I currently have three rotary cutters in my arsenal, a 45mm, 28mm and a tiny 18mm.  But it’s the 45mm one that I use for cutting out large garments that seems to go dull the fastest.  Instead of buying name-brand, I like to go down and dirty and buy in quantity.  Will they go dull faster than a an Olfa or Dritz brand blade?  Probably, but I know that the glam belly dance fabrics I use with foiled finishes will dull all blades, why not save some money? 45mm – 10 pack on Amazon

Pins

Over time, pins bend, become dull, and just disappear. To keep things simple in my studio, I only use two kinds of straight pins.  I use these Dritz brand extra-fine white-headed glass pins. These are perfect for fine sewing and working with couture sewing techniques on slippery fabrics. on Amazon

I also regularly purchase Dritz yellow-headed quilters pins in the large-sized package.  These are pins are long and sharp and easy to get through even tough fabrics.  These are work-horses in my studio and I use them daily.  on Amazon

This color coding system makes it easy for me to identify the pins I’m grabbing at a glance.  I also use red clips in my process, but since they last longer and don’t need to be replaced as often.  If you’re interested in the clips, these are the set I have in my studio currently. on Amazon

If you are setting up your own sewing kit from scratch or updating an existing kit, perhaps some of the tools and supplies I use will also work for you!  If you would like to join the ongoing conversation about belly dance costume construction, materials, tools, and supplies, join us in the Studio Davina Facebook group.

I hope that you have a fabulous day during this holiday season!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Dec. 21, 2017

PS: THANK YOU!   This post uses affiliate links, and if you click through any of them and make a purchase, you are helping to support this blog.

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Yearly Business Review: Costume Design in Studio Davina

2017 Year End Review: Sewing & Design

This year I re-opened my costume shop for business. My aim was to build-up a nest-egg to fund the purchase of materials and supplies for my next big book project.  So I planned to make a costume each month during 2017. I was so successful lining up projects that I’m booked through the middle of next spring!

Over the past year, I’ve also tried to put up blog posts that documented the construction of these projects. However, now that I’m in the middle of my year-end review, I realize that I failed! I was so busy making costumes, that I didn’t always document the process efficiently.

A few times I have a lot of photographic documentation of the building process, but don’t an image of the final costume on the model!   While I didn’t quite make this goal, I am pretty happy with the quantity and quality of the costumes I made. Here are a few of my favorite costuming projects for 2017.

Costumes from Studio Davina 

Shalimar’s Lavender Garden

Perhaps my favorite moment is when someone comes to me and says, “Make me something beautiful.”  This year, I’ve had the privilege to make seven head-to-toe ensembles.  The lavender garden costume I made for greater San Francisco/Bay Area belly dancer Shalimar earlier this year.  In March, I documented the design and construction of this three-piece set in a series of blog posts in case you want some “Behind the Seams” info on the project.

Designing a Lavender Belly Dance Bedlah Series
Step 1 – Lavender Bedlah – Planning the Design
Step 2 – Lavender Bedlah – Bra Bands and Straps
Step 3 – Lavender Bedlah – Belt Base and Bra Covering
Step 4 – Lavender Bedlah – Finale

Shalimar’s Candy Pink

I was happy to work with Shalimar on a few other projects including a lovely candy-pink costume composed of a traditional rhinestone encrusted bedlah set, skirt and finished with a set of matching sleeves using my own custom pattern.

I am pretty happy with the way this ensemble turned out. However, I must admit there was some design drift.  So though it became a lovely costume, the original skirt didn’t coordinate with the pink and “white” design of the bra and belt. So, we postponed the lovely floral skirt, and instead, I made this goblet style skirt. Consequently, I’m working on another bedlah set made from the same base pink material but which will be covered with a floral georgette fabric. In January, I look forward to snapping photos of Shalimar in this georgette floral costume. If you want to read more about how I made these sleeves, check out this blog post.

Costumes from Studio Davina – Anara’s Assiut Tribal Bra

I also worked on a few individual garments including the final garment for our the Kickstarter campaign for the launch of Becoming a Belly Dancer: From Student to Stage.  So-cal based ATS dancer Anara backed us at the highest level, and I made her a shiny and crusty tribal-style assiut bra. While she was in town for a visit, she dropped into Studio Davina for a photo shoot with Alisha Westerfeld.

Costume Rehab Projects 

This year I’ve worked with more than a dozen different clients to upgrade their wardrobes. They ranged in complexity simple refurbishments changing the linings hooks and eyes on a bedlah set to complete overhauls and two bra enlargements. Rehab projects require a different style of creativity. It’s a challenge to take an old costume and transform it into something beautiful and wearable.

Costume Rehab – Azura in Wine

Bra enlargements are the probably the most common major alteration I regularly undertake. This year, I performed three “bust augmentations” for naturally well-endowed ladies.  Perhaps my favorite was this beautiful berry-toned two-piece bedlah owned by the glamorous Azura of the greater San Jose area.  This designer-made costume was gorgeous, but she had never been able to wear it.  With a little ingenuity and the sacrifice of a few costume accessories, Azura finally got to wear this beauty on stage!

Costume Rehab – Zemira in Blue

For belly dancer Zemira, I transformed a very long beaded lace skirt with a matched pair of sleeves into a bedlah set. The skirt was purchased from Adira Dance and Costume in Willow Glen, CA.  It was crazy-long, and no one wanted it, even when marked down to practically free.  I picked up the skirt for a song, cut it down and shaped the side seams to fit Zemira’s curvy frame. Then I used the scraps and covered a bra. I took a lot of photos of this project, but I never got a blog post written about it. Instead, I shared a lot of the in-process images in my Facebook group, Studio Davina: Behind the Seams.  If you’re interested in hearing more about my sewing projects in real time you can follow posts of my on-going work.

A Race to the Finish!

As 2017 draws to a close, I am finishing up three last remaining projects. So I’m working a few hours every day on one costume rehab project, one new three-piece belly dance costume, and an assiut cocktail dress.  It’s a race to the end of the year!   Can I finish before 2018 arrives?  I hope so, but if not, these dancers will certainly enjoy having new costumes to dance in in January!

Top Left: Zero Waste Georgette Skirt – Top Right – My essential hand-sewing tools
Bottom Left: Assiut Swing Dress  – Bottom right: Costume Rehab: Berry/Black/Gold

Ready Made Costumes and Accessories

This year, I’ve been so busy working with clients, that I haven’t been stocking my Etsy store with sewn costumes and accessories.  Early in the year, I had some assiut hair accessories up available in the shop, but they sold.  As a one-woman workshop, I have a limited number of hours each day to sew. During 2017 I focussed on working one-on-one with local clients.

Visit my Etsy store for sewing patterns, books and more.

In 2018 I’m looking forward to getting ahead in my build schedule so I can make some assiut hair accessories and costume pieces for my Etsy store. In the meantime, you can find my sleeve patterns, printable downloads of the new coloring book over my store.

 

I’m looking forward to making many more costumes in the coming year!
But now I suddenly have a serious hankering to sew!

Happy Dance and Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Dec. 18, 2017 

Categories
General Publications

Yearly Business Review: 3 Books & a Magazine

3 Books & 1 Magazine - Year End Review 2017As I work on my year-end review, I’m taking a moment today to reflect on my recent publishing projects. Unbelievably, I’ve released 3 books and a magazine in the last 14 months! The small changes I made to my schedule early in the year translated into increased productivity.  When paired my strong team of collaborators, 2017 was my most prolific year of publishing.

Read about my 3 Productivity Tweaks

Collaboration

I’m so grateful for the wonderful team of writers, photographers, and artists I’ve worked with during 2017.  Without this talented group of collaborators, I could not have produced such a large and diverse collection of publishing projects.

Thank You for Being on My Team

I have to start the shout-outs with photographer Alisha Westerfeld, with whom I’ve literally traveled the world.  She and I have produced dozens of belly dance shows and events in the past. She’s got a great eye, and I was so happy when she joined my publication team. So far, we’ve worked on five publications and have two more in the pipeline. 

I was thrilled to connect with my co-authors Sara Shrapnell and Poppy Maya, who invited Alisha and me to join the team for the seminal book, Becoming a Belly Dancer. This group also forms the core of the production team for our new project, Amabella Magazine. I also want to blast out a huge thank you to all of the ladies who joined us as models for the books and magazines that I’ve released and that are still in the pipeline.  Thank you all for bringing your beauty, style, and grace to all of our photoshoots!

In late 2016, teamed up with the talented illustrator George Goncalves and we collaborated on several images in Zills and we worked together on all the designs in our latest book, Color Theory with Pencils & Mandalas. I’ve also been fortunate to collaborate with celebrity belly dance photographer Michael Baxter and am looking forward to our next photo shoot.

I’m also grateful for the team members who work with me on more back-end projects. I have a posse of editors including Michael Hyde, Joe Engledow, Chris Schoedel, Nancy Hernandez, and of course, my mom! Without the help of these editors, I would sound like an utter and complete dork.  On the tech support front, I’m deeply indebted to Barry Brown and Jerry Case who keep this blog rolling and who rescue me out when I’m having technical difficulties.

Becoming a Belly Dancer:
From Student to Stage

As we celebrated New Years 2017, I was still tidying up the loose ends of my 2016 main project. I worked with a fabulous team including our lead author Sara Shrapnell, photographer Alisha Westerfeld, and super-glamorous international dance star and our cover girl, Poppy Maya. We were still making final tweaks early this year fixing typos and layout issues and making it as practically perfect as possible!

If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you know that our team worked for more than a year taking photos, writing, and editing this book. This was the biggest book I’ve ever laid out. At about 400 pages, this is a complete and comprehensive reference for belly dancers at all levels of their dance journey. It really has become a seminal book on the topic of belly dance. I am so flipping proud of this book!

Find out more about this book here

Zills: Music on Your Fingertips

Although we went a bit over our self-imposed deadline for Becoming a Belly Dancer, I still managed to squeeze out some time working on my own publication, Zills: Music on Your Fingertips.  Although I was hoping to have it completely finished by the end of 2016, we were still working on the edits at the start of the year.  Along with lots of info about the history, use, selection, and care of finger cymbals, there are great photos by Alisha Westerfeld and beautiful illustrations by George Goncalves.

This book was so much fun for me to write because I love the history, metallurgy, and construction of finger cymbals. This book gave me the opportunity to share information about the ancient origins of our favorite instruments. This is super-nerdy stuff, but I was pleased to have the opportunity to bring this arcane knowledge to the world. One of the highlights of the year was being interviewed on the Belly Geek podcast to talk about Zills.

Listen to the Belly Geek Podcast #48 about Zills here.
Find out more about this book here.

Amabella Magazine

I love belly dance magazines!  However, the entire landscape of the magazine industry has changed in the past few years. There are simply fewer publications due to the increased expenses of printing and shipping. Many of my favorite magazines have ended due to lower subscription rates and loss of advertiser revenue.

But new technology has created opportunities to produce projects digitally.  Many years ago, I made a one-off Costumer’s Notes magazine. This was a fun “behind the scenes” about the making of the book, The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut. So I knew I could create a magazine if I had a team to help put it together.

I wanted to create a woman’s publication style magazine with a general belly dance theme. Amabella means “Beautiful Woman” in Latin, and I choose the name to reflect the main mission of this publication to be entertaining, inspiring, and informative. This first slender issue, V0 was designed as a proof of concept publication to see if the community was interested in a new magazine. The results were astonishing!  We’re in the middle of setting up a comprehensive website, putting together our advertising specifications and editorial guidelines, and will be launching our first full-sized Volume 1 in late spring.  It’s so gratifying when dreams come true!

Read Amabella Magazine on the Issuu website here.
Read Costumers Notes Magazine on the Issuu website here.

Color Theory with Pencils & Mandalas

In preparation for releasing a new digital costume design course in 2018, I decided to turn my rather substantial handout on color harmony into a full-sized printed publication. Color Theory with Pencils & Mandalas is one part workbook and two parts coloring book.

For many years I’ve been teaching a course entitled “Think Like a Designer.”  This class began life years ago when I was teaching at the junior college level. This dully named,  “Introduction to Fashion Design,”  evolved into a series of workshops that focus specifically on belly dance costuming.

Because I had so much fun working with illustrator George Goncalves on the Zills book that I invited him to join me on this project. Over the summer, we worked together to create a collection of mandalas, hamsas, and circular design motifs from around the globe. Our mission was to present the reader with the basic info about color theory and then offer them opportunities to experiment color on paper. I’m currently working on some demo videos for my YouTube channel, so stay tuned for more info!

Find out more about Color Theory with Pencils & Mandalas here.

Wow!  What a hugely productive publishing year I’ve had!  This process of end of year review is such a help in evaluating what worked and what didn’t so I can effectively plan for next year.

I’ll be back tomorrow with another post! 
Until then, have dance well, be well, live well,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Dec. 18, 2017

2017 Year End Review:
Read #1 – Productivity Strategies: What Worked in 2017
Read #2 – Publications: 3 Books and 1 Magazine

Categories
General Publications

Yearly Business Review: 3 Top Productivity Strategies

Dawn Devine of Studio Davina presents her 3 Top Productivity StrategiesAs I work through my annual end of year business review, a process that takes a few weeks each December, I analyze my profitability and productivity. This year, I realized that several small changes I made last January, yielded the biggest impact on my efficiency.

One of the many challenges of an independent business owner is finding the time to get everything done. My mission for 2017 was simply to become more productive. Now, looking back on the year, I can see which small scheduling tweaks worked. Here are the three changes that made the biggest impact.

Block Scheduling My Week

Perhaps the most obvious change I made was establishing a weekly routine using block scheduling. I’ve always been a list-maker and am happiest when I’m working on projects that have a detailed list of actionable tasks.  I take supreme pleasure in crossing off finished items from my list.

During 2017, I decided to use the scheduling method I used back when I was in graduate school. In college, I would plan my week and individual days by blocking out my time based on projects. Back then, I would list the name of a particular class, color code it, and then schedule the work in chunks time.  Now, years later, I tried this system again, only now I’m dividing my business tasks into three main categories; admin, writing, and design. 

I’ve been a long-time user of the David Allen system of using a catch book. (His method is described in his book “Getting Things Done The Art of Stress-Free Productivity.”) I carry around a journal at all times, ready to jot notes about everything from projects to recipes, tv shows I want to catch, and podcasts I want to listen to.  When I decided to block schedule my time, I printed out a calendar and taped it to my journal. Each Sunday night when I’m preparing for my week I refer back to this schedule to remind myself of the plan. Now, 12 months later, I’m so pleased with the outcome that I will keep this system in place during 2018.

Tending My Garden – Daily Admin Work

Somedays I feel like I have a spoon in every pot, but not enough arms to stir them all.  So this year, I decided to develop a daily business administration habit that involves grabbing each spoon, daily or weekly and giving them a stir. Each morning and afternoon I spend about an hour working on the administrative tasks that simply need to be done!

To accomplish this, I use a modified version of The Pomodoro Method, using the timer feature on my phone to start and stop my task bundles.  I break the hour into 4, 10-minute sections separated by 5-minute gaps. Adding this planned administrative work session to my day upped my productivity. Some days I choose to put more time for Admin at the front of my day, while on other days, I split the work into two chunks, a morning and evening session.

The Pomodoro Technique
for Movement Management

I started to regularly use the Pomodoro Technique when working on all of my projects. This system for time management was developed by Francesco Cirillo. The official system breaks time in20-minute intervals with either a short or long break in between. I’ve found that using this productivity system has really helped me not only get more things done but also, to feel better physically.

Sitting sucks!  Stretching is Fun!  One of my favorite byproducts of this method is making the time to stand up and stretch.  Both sewing and writing involve a lot of sitting, so using the Pomodoro method has helped me stay limber. Truth is, I’ve done some repetitive motion damage during the course of my long dance career. The Pomodoro system has helped remind me to take breaks and get more movement back into my life.  I now regularly take the time for stretching breaks and dance parties for one!

I’m continuing on with my year-end review this week,
so stay tuned for more productivity tips.
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Dec. 17, 2017  

2017 Year End Review:
Read #1 – Productivity Strategies: What Worked in 2017
Read #2 – Publications: 3 Books and 1 Magazine

 

Categories
Assiut/Assuit General

Assiut Costuming & Studio Davina

Happy Holidays! It’s the season when I begin to conduct an end of the year review for my business. This year, I was involved with a whole bunch of new projects and I rediscovered some old loves. The review process takes a couple of weeks, and I generally gather together all of the data, the metrics that help me understand how my business worked over the past 12 months. Then I sift through these numbers and analyze it. What was successful, what didn’t work, what could work if given more time, information, or skill development. This year, in a nutshell, was a whopping success!

Aqua Assiut Swing Dress from Studio Davina

Studio Davina

In 2017, I reopened my sewing business with a new name, rebranding as Studio Davina. A few years back, we moved into a large enough home for me to have a fairly big multipurpose workroom. My vision was to do practically everything in this one large space.  So we installed mirrors along one wall, shelves for my research library on another, and brought in two folding tables. Within minutes, this room can have a cutting table, ironing board, and sewing station, or be reconfigured into a small photo-studio with lights and backdrop paper. The result?  A multi-functional space where I can work on diverse projects from sewing to model photography, teach mini-workshops and shoot product pictures for publication.

Right:  Final Assiut Project of the Year – Finishing up an aqua tone assiut swing dress. 

Assiut Sewing Projects

One of my goals for 2017 was to work on more assiut costuming projects. The bulk of 2016 was spent working on two book projects, Becoming a Belly Dancer: From Student to Stage, and Zills: Music on Your Fingertips.  But what I really wanted to do this year was to make more costumes, designing custom clothing, and working with my favorite textile, assiut. So over the past year, I reached out to my clients and customers and asked if anyone wanted assiut costumes. The resounding answer was yes!  I made several bras, a garden of hair flowers, and a few head-to-toe ensembles like this one worn by Bay Area instructor and event producer Sudeep who brings us the annual event Bay Area Belly.

Dance with Davina

Davina's drop-in troupe - Swirl - trio includes Davina, redvelvet, and Zemira, Dec. 2017

One of the new discoveries in I made in 2017 was so simple it was shocking. I really enjoy teaching dance! Although my space is small by dance studio terms, Studio Davina is big enough for a few friends to dance together. Midway through the year, I started teaching more private lessons. By August, I had a regular weekly class going of my coaching students, and we began performing together in October. Teaching again is an unexpected surprise and so much fun! Of course, it doesn’t hurt that my little troupe loves wearing assiut almost as much as I do!

My drop-in troupe collaborative group is composed of myself and current students and coaching partners. Our name is Swirl and we perform in the greater San Jose/Penninsula area of California.  Here we are on Dec. 2017 as a little trio, including Zemira aka photographer Alisha Westerfeld, and redvelvet. There was much assiut-clad swirling happening!

If you are interested in having a custom costume made or if you’re interested in dancing with me, and are within easy drive of Sunnyvale, CA drop me a line and let’s make plans!

I am looking forward to making a lot of assiut costumes and performing more in 2018!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Dec. 12, 2017