Categories
Belly Dance

Musings Belly Dance Performances: Past and Future

In 2011 I was invited to a student recital show in Palo Alto, California hosted by the lovely *Setareh* and featuring her classes, drop-in-troupe, and friends.  The Palo Alto Arts Center had this lovely stage for us to play on, and I although I was “dressed for class” rather than for a show, I was dancing to some of my favorite music for my favorite people.  Of course, after the fact, all I could think was, “Why didn’t I wear a “REAL” costume?”

This week, I’m preparing to dance to live music at Tannourine restaurant in San Mateo, California. I’m still hot on the “Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut” marketing campaign, so I’ll be wearing assiut!   If you’re in the area, see you there!

Happy Costuming and Dance ~ Dawn
Sept. 1, 2015

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Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Byzantium Collection

Hiya-Chaiya wearing a blue mirror and coin Byzantium bra by DavinaThis weekend I went to an event, a hafla hosted by Adira, of Adira Dance and Costume in Willow Glen, CA.  Once a month throughout the summer, Adira transformer her parking lot into a performance space, and invites dancers from all across Northern California to come and dance.  This Saturday, it was my turn, and I took the stage as one half of a duet called “Swirl,” the name I use for all of my group dancing experiences.  Zemira, aka Alisha Westerfeld, my co-author and photographer on Cloth of Egypt.

Well, lo-and-behold, I spied one of my costume pieces!  Alisha got a snap of dancer Hiya-Chaiya, performing with the group House of Inanna.  This bra was part of the Byzantium line of ready-to-wear bra and belts that I started in 2001. I don’t even know how many of these I made!  But here are a few of my favorite pictures of Byzantium bras.

Indian Ribbon, copper coins, and chainette fringe Byzantium bra.Before Istanbul was Constantinople, it was called Byzantium, and I took this name for this collection of easy-to-wear costumes.  The style is tribal fusion, a multicultural blend of textiles, coins, and jewelry components from along the caravan routes of the spice routes and along the silk road of Asia and North Africa.  Ribbons from India, jewelry from Morocco, Coins from Iran, all came together to form these costumes.  My personal mission was to make garments that would hold up to the rigorous life of dancing outdoors at festivals, historic events, on the beaches and around the campfires.  They were sturdy, made from materials that could be hand washed and laid out to dry, ready for the next performance.

Molly and Zemira wearing Byzantium bras designed by DavinaI adored dancing at Renaissance festivals and other living history presentations. At a festival, you might have to wear your costume for 4, 6 or even 8 hours in a row, longer than you would wear a spangled glam costume for a restaurant.  They need to be flexible, and have give.  And, they need to be made from period inspired materials.

Of course, a modern commercial bra isn’t historical by ANY stretch of the imagination, so covering it up with embellishments, and wearing it under a dress, vest, or coat, a period impression is created, without sacrificing modern comfort.  Like these two lovelies on the left, Mollie and Alisha wearing Byzantium bras paired with wash-and-wear cotton tunics.  Of course, a few were so lusciously embellished that they were stage-worthy like the costume below, worn by San Francisco/Bay Area pro dancer Setareh.

Thanks for joining me on this little blast from the past!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
August 17, 2015

Setareh in pink Byzantium - Photo by Carl Sermon

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY Design General

Costuming Tip: When in doubt – don’t wear black!

Once upon a time, I was invited to dance in a show at a venue I’ve never been to before.  I figured, I’ll wear something simple and easy.  I didn’t stop to think about the potential environment, and choose a costume that was completely black to make some tribal jewelry really pop.  Well – I arrived to discover venue featured a tiny black-box style theater with minimal golden top light and one big spot. Then I remembered the old axiom of the entertainment world. When in doubt about the venue, don’t wear black!  While restaurants are filled with different colors, textures, if you’re dancing in a theatrical environment, the odds of dancing on a black stage with black curtains is very high. Many small theaters use deep flat black for its neutral, non-distracting environment that is affordable to keep up.   I did the show, and got some great photos of myself, if I like floating head shots.  Perhaps my life lesson remembered will help you choose your costumes with better results!

Happy Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Aug. 7, 2015

DavinaOnBlack-Web

Categories
Assiut/Assuit

Assiut Scraps? Assiut Hair Flowers!

Assiut Hair Flowers from ScrapsScraps!  We all make them, and for many of us, they are a difficult thing to part with. I too have been saving up the tiny bits and pieces of hundreds of assiut costumes, and have amassed quite a little hoard of assiut scraps.  My scrap box went from something a bit bigger than a shoe-box, to a pretty large flip-top tub. I’ve found I’ve had to sort them by size and usability and it took a day to realize that I making scraps faster than I’m getting rid of them!

One of my favorite scrap-using projects are hair flowers. We sat down in the studio and planned out a collection of hair flowers made from five simple ingredients

1 – Black Assiut Scraps
2 – Black Fusible Interfacing
3 – Hair Clip
4 – Assorted Small Metal Beads
5 – Plain Black Tulle
6 – Black Button and Carpet Threads

In a nutshell, the process works likes this.

1 – Pick out a motif you like.  If you don’t have any complete motifs, create your own by stitching smaller pieces together.
2 – Use one or two layers of fusible interfacing to stiffen the assiut motif.  If you want it super-stiff – try using some spray starch to give it more body.
3 – Cut out a strip of tulle approximately 12” long, and gather along one long edge.  This will create the ruffled cockade that will serve as a base for our assiut motif.
4 – Using heavy-duty thread, stitch the stiffened assiut motif to the tulle cockade through the center.
5 – Add any beads or baubles you crave to embellish your hair flower.
6 – Flip over and stitch on a hair clip.

And Volila – An assiut hair flower made from scraps.

We’re making a batch of these to add to our Etsy store, but if you have your own assiut scrap stash, give making your own hair flowers a go.  It’s a fast, easy and fun hand-sewing project that takes a few hours, depending on how quickly you sew. Assiut, assuit, asyut, azute, or tulle bi telli – no matter how you spell it or cut it, the fabric is amazing!

Best of luck using up your scraps!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina, Aug. 3, 2015

PS: For updates on the items available on our Etsy store, please join our mailing list, Costumer’s Notes.  We send it out quarterly and it’s filled with links to fun and informative articles, blog posts, and videos from around the internet. Sign up in the box at the top right!HF-6-Flat-Ruler-WEBHF-7-Flat-Ruler-Web
Categories
Assiut/Assuit Design

Assiut at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Assiut Textiles in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of ArtThe venerable New York institution The Metropolitan Museum of Art, has a vast collection of textiles, clothing and accessory pieces in their collection.  In 1946, The Metropolitan incorporated the old Museum of Costume Art as a curatorial department, renaming it the Costume Institute. In January 2009, The Brooklyn Museum transferred its costume collection to the Met. Shortly thereafter, the museum remodeled its costume storage, research and display facilities. Today, The Anna Winter Costume Center is home to 4,200 square foot state of the art exhibition space for their collection.

Although this is a large space, only a fraction of the costume holdings can be displayed at one time. So as a boon to costume historians, scholars and researchers, much of the 35,000+ pieces of the Costume Instute are available for view online.

Info About the Met’s Costume Institute
Portal for The Collection Online

Assiut Highlights
However, you won’t find “assiut” in a simple search. The museum identifies artworks using standard art curatorial methods. Simple details such as title, artist, date, medium are all included in the basic descriptions of objects in the museum. Unfortunately, textiles are also described using this system, so many textiles become difficult to search for.  So instead of trying to find assiut fabric, researchers should search for the keywords, such as location ie, Egyptian or Egypt, and medium, cotton and metal.  The Metropolitan has made it easy to save your searches.  When you find objects that fit your search parameters, you can set up a free MyMet account, which will allow you to save your research items for easy future viewing.

Fashion Garments

Evening Coat: French, 1926 
Source: Metropolitan Museum
This gorgeous 1926 cocoon coat appears to have been made from one single densely stitched assiut piano shawl.  This absolutely gorgeous coat is a virtual mystery.  It is unknown who designed it, or who it was made for. Did the original owner purchase the assiut shawl on holiday in Egypt?  Did the seamstress or designer purchase it in bulk?  Was the assiut made in the 1920’s?  Or was it a family heirloom picked up during the Belle Epoque?  Even though we don’t know the specifics, we can certainly admire the design of the coat, with the complicated border pattern strategically used to emphasize the collar, hips, and back.

CI56.6.11_FEthnographic Garments

Dress
Source: Metropolitan Museum
There are also a few ethnographic garments held within the Met’s collection.  One in that I particularly like is the lovely assiut robe below.  Although not displayed so you can see it effectively, this garment is made in the traditional manner with straight sleeves and gussets, rather than a curved, set-in sleeve used today.  This style was once popularly worn as the top layer of a wedding dresses in Upper Egypt, but is now worn almost exclusively by dancers, especially those leading the wedding procession know as the zeffa, or who are performing cultural dances regionally specific to Upper Egypt.

Scarves, Stoles and Wraps
Assiut scarves and shawls entered the museum collection over the course of the last century as both donations and purchases.  Often the descriptions of a textile piece will reflect the taste of the day.  So what I might call a shawl, might be listed as a stole, or wrap.  A small scarf might be listed as a head scarf or even kerchief.  The beautiful assiut shawl below is a great example of how names can vary.  I might not be obvious from just the description “Middle Eastern Stole” that this is, in fact Egyptian Assiut.

Middle Eastern Stole
Source: Metropolitan Museum Egyptian Stole

There are several more garments, and many more shawls, stoles, and scarves to peek at in the Met’s collection.  If you’re interested in seeing more, you might want to try clicking through one of these links, and then check out the “related items” or simply type in a search for Egyptian, cotton and metal.  I hope you enjoy your visit to the virtual Met!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 27, 2015