Last weekend, I had the pleasure of working on a dance costume for one of my models, Shalimar, for an upcoming performance in Las Angeles. We were under a deadline, and I had to crank out the outfit soup-to-nuts in 2 days. Since I’ve been working on the step-by-step construction portion of my upcoming book, The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut,I thought this would be a great opportunity to quickly test drive some of my ideas for the photography in the book.
Using my trusty cell phone and the power of Instagram, I very quickly documented the progress. The result was a series of step-by-steps that really work – but the photos are not quite up to publishing quality. However, rather than wasting them, I decided to hammer together this quick tutorial on my belt making method. This is sized for 8.5″ by 11″ so you can print it out if you like. Wanna see the final costume? You can scroll down and watch the video of Shalimar in her “test drive” performance on Wed before the big show on Friday night. We’ll be doing formal photography of this baby in a couple of weeks, and I’m looking forward to spotlighting this ensemble in my upcoming book!
Vintage assiut cloth experienced a major style moment in the early 1970s. Antique shawls were coveted by celebrities drawn to the glistening shimmer and provocative transparency that looked fantastic under stage lights. In the 1970s there was a rising nostalgia for the freedom, style, and lust for life of the jazz babies of the 1920s.
Image Right: Publicity still, First Artists via Wikimedia Commons
Assiut Ensemble in “A Star is Born”
In this publicity still for the movie “A Star is Born,” Barbara Streisand wears a stunning assiut dress. She designed this gown, part of a two-piece ensemble, from vintage assiut shawls pulled from her personal collection. As one of the producers of the film, Barbara had the power to make executive decisions. She chose this look for the pivotal scene when her character was receiving a Grammy award.
Image Below: Collage of photographs from the 2004 auction catalog “Her Name is Barbara,” published by Julien’s Auctions
In a slide show entitled “Signature Style: Barbara Streisand,” from the In Style Magazine website, Barbara comments on a 1976 publicity still for the movie:
“Here I am with Kris Kristofferson in A Star Is Born. I designed the dress: I took a couple of my silver and black shawls and draped them. Isn’t that cool? Slinky, snaky, shiny. I gave myself a little credit at the end of the movie-it just said, ‘Miss Streisand’s clothes from her closet.’ I was made fun of, but it was the truth!”
From Barbara’s Own Wardrobe
The design of the dress utilizes several shawls cut on the bias which conforms to every curve of her body. In contrast, the loose drape and flow of the overcoat echos the popular cocoon-style wrap coats that were a favorite of flappers. The assiut outfit appears in the scene where Barbara as Esther, attends the Grammy awards as a nominee, and ultimately, wins the award for best song. She takes the podium to receive her award clad in the full ensemble. Here’s a quick clip from the beginning of the scene before she begins her acceptance speech. You can really see the move and sway of this glorious ensemble.
Photo Right: Image grab from YouTube clip above.
Sold in a Charity Auction
In the 2004 charity auction “Her Name is Barbara,” at Julien’s Auction House the ensemble sold for $3,600.00. The auction catalog included these four superb photographs and this description:
“Full-length gown and cape made of silver and black metal mesh … It features a geometric design, spaghetti straps, skirt in two layers, gathered at back, slit at the left side, undergarment sewn into bodice, lined in velvet at décolletage area, zipper and snap closure at back, together with a matching wrap-around full-length cape featuring short sleeves, a body comprised of three sections including two front panels and one back panel, bodice lined in nude chiffon. The stunning ensemble was worn in the film for the scene in which Barbra Streisand as Esther Hoffman wins a Grammy award.”
Image Left: Cover of 2004 auction catalog “Her Name is Barbara” published by Julien’s Auction House in Los Angeles
Life Imitates Art
In a moment of life imitating art, Barbara took the Grammy award for best song for “Evergreen” in real life but choose a more sedate black lace dress at the ceremony. It’s a totally different look from the stunning dress in the movie. Image Right: Screen Grab of Barbara from a clip from the 1977 Grammy Awards
Learn More About Assiut
In 2014 I published my book, “The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut.” It’s become the definitive history book on the cloth. Learn more about this book or pick up a copy! It’s available on Amazon or direct from me on my Etsy shop.
Thanks for visiting! Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Updated July 2021
Curious to see some more of the looks from the movie and hear some of Barbara’s thoughts on the costume choices?
It is my pleasure to introduce you to Poppy Maya, international dance star and costume designer. She’s been taking design classes with me for the past six months, and I’m pleased to unveil her first major class project, a rhinestone and assiut bedlah set. Already an accomplished designer when she arrived in the Bay Area from the UK, we’ve been working together to hone her natural eye and fill her intellectual tool box with loads of strategies and techniques for designing and making unique, high quality and beautifully sewn belly dance costumes.
The project that we’ve collaborated on is absolutely lovely and extremely versatile. The design brief I gave Poppy was to design a bra and belt set using an assiut border pattern of pyramids, rhinestones and silver egyptian fringe. The result? See for yourself! Because the color palette is black and silver, this ensemble can be paired with a wide variety of skirt colors and shapes, taking this ensemble from high glam to fusion.
Poppy will be appearing in my upcoming book, The Cloth of Egypt, demonstrating the wardrobing versatility of this rhinestone embellished assiut bedlah. In the course of one afternoon-long photography session, photographer Alisha Westerfeld caught at least nine different looks, some which are quite transformative. But rather than tell you, here’s a peek at Poppy’s costume in action, paired with a straight-cut white tiger patterned skirt. I shot this video at the Bean Scene coffee shop in Sunnyvale, California, at the February Love Raks party hosted by Paloma, owner of Lunatic Fringe. I call my video “company” Shaky Stick Productions (because I shoot on a monopod and it’s still a bumpy ride,) but I hope you enjoy watching Poppy in action!
Essential Sewing Notions for the Belly Dance Costumer’s Kit
Folks are always asking me, what are the items I need in my sewing basket. Well, everyone’s needs are unique, people like different brands and products, and of course, we all like to feel different things in our hands. The best choice for you, is the one that fits your hands, fits your needs, and your aesthetics. Below are my personal choices for products that use daily in my sewing practice.
I love this assiut dress! Images of this gown have appeared all over the web for the past decade. Usually, this dress is just tagged as assiut, or included in an unlabeled collection of fashion images. The year that this picture appeared in Vogue, I tore it out and pinned it to my inspiration wall. I grabbed two images, one from British Vogue (at left) and American Vogue (below top) I loved the excessive decadence, supreme luxury, and retro glam, including numerous allusions to bohemian styles of the first two decades of the 20th century. But who designed this dress?
British designer Johan Galliano included this in his fall 1997 haute couture collection for the French fashion house Christian Dior. He had only been the head designer for a year, and needed a major statement to really cement his role. Images from his collection appeared in virtually every fashion magazine that fall.
For American Vogue, editor Grace Coddington visualized decadent gowns in a magical garden. She put this fantastic gown on model Carolyn Murphy and styled her with an over the top red-orange wig dashing across a lawn. The photo was shot by Peter Lindbergh and was featured as part of a 10 page spread.
Here’s the opulent, over-the-top fashion show where the gown first appeared – can you spot it in this video? Be aware, Model Shalome Harlow appears in a topless gown, so this may not be safe for peeking at in every environment.
Assiut Spotted
From Barbara’s Own Wardrobe
It is my pleasure to introduce you to 
I love this assiut dress! Images of this gown have appeared all over the web for the past decade. Usually, this dress is just tagged as assiut, or included in an unlabeled collection of fashion images. The year that this picture appeared in Vogue, I tore it out and pinned it to my inspiration wall. I grabbed two images, one from British Vogue (at left) and American Vogue (below top) I loved the excessive decadence, supreme luxury, and retro glam, including numerous allusions to bohemian styles of the first two decades of the 20th century. But who designed this dress?
