I love this assiut dress!  Images of this gown have appeared all over the web for the past decade. Usually, this dress is just tagged as assiut, or included in an unlabeled collection of fashion images. The year that this picture appeared in Vogue, I tore it out and pinned it to my inspiration wall.  I grabbed two images, one from British Vogue (at left) and American Vogue (below top) I loved the excessive decadence, supreme luxury, and retro glam, including numerous allusions to bohemian styles of the first two decades of the 20th century.  But who designed this dress?

British designer Johan Galliano included this in his fall 1997 haute couture collection for the French fashion house Christian Dior.   He had only been the head designer for a year, and needed a major statement to really cement his role.  Images from his collection appeared in virtually every fashion magazine that fall.

For American Vogue, editor Grace Coddington visualized decadent gowns in a magical garden.  She put this fantastic gown on model Carolyn Murphy and styled her with an over the top red-orange wig dashing across a lawn.  The photo was shot by Peter Lindbergh and was featured as part of a 10 page spread.

Here’s the opulent, over-the-top fashion show where the gown first appeared – can you spot it in this video?   Be aware, Model Shalome Harlow appears in a topless gown, so this may not be safe for peeking at in every environment.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/Rj8DYXo3i7k

An Assiut Gown: Hedy Lamarr, Edith Head & Delilah

In 1948, Cicil B. Demille, noted film director began work on the Oscar award winning sword and sandal film, Sampson and Delilah starring Hedy Lamarr and Victor Mature.  Edith Head, the top costume designer of the day was selected to create a collection of gorgeous gowns for the role of Delilah.  Along with peacock feathered robes, and rich gowns of gold and purple, Head designed this luxurious two-piece ensemble made of supple and sensual assiut.

Delilah’s dress in motion in this
scene from the film.

Hedy was considered one of the most beautiful women in Hollywood and designer Edith Head carefully cut this top and skirt to take advantage of the natural drape and cling of the garment to showcase Hedy’s sumptuous curves.  In the scene from the film, you can see how the outfit drapes when she’s still, glistens when she moves, and clings in all the right places.

Images Above
Left: Screen Capture from Film
Right: Studio Publicity Still of Hedy Lamarr as Delilah
Images Below
Top Left: Studio Publicity Still of Hedy Lamarr as Delilah
Top Right: Movie Poster from Samson & Delilah
Middle Left: Director Cicil B. DeMille directs Hedy Lamarr on Set
Middle Right: Costume designer Edith Head with her record 8 Oscar wins for best costume designer
Lower Middle Center: Studio Publicity Still of Hedy Lamaar as Delilah
Bottom Left: Costume Designer Edith Head surrounded by Sketches
Bottom Right: Costume Sketch for Hedy Lamarr in the role of Delilah

June Havoc

in Assiut

As I continue my ongoing research into the history of assiut cloth, one of the themes I’ve been exploring is the use of assiut by Hollywood fashion designers.  One of my all-time favorite appearances of assiut in an American movie is this lovely dress designed by Peter Tuesday for the 1947 movie Intrigue.

Assiut Gown Designed by Peter Tuesday

Peter Tuesday is a mysterious figure in the world of Hollywood costumes.  He did the costume design for only two major motion pictures and while this dress is divine, the rest of the costumes in this rather long and slow film are just okay.

Legendary Actress June Havoc

June Havoc began her career in the world of vaudeville as “Baby June,” a singing and dancing child star and younger sister to the notorious Gypsy Rose Lee.  She went to Hollywood and became a screen siren through the ’40s but later returned to her theater roots to become a Tony award-winning director.

Intrigue: A Film Noir Movie

In Intrigue, June Havoc plays the icy blond and coldly sinister Mme. Tamara Baranoff.  Her dress is lusciously painted onto her star-worthy physique, which lends her statuesque frame a cool metallic quality that supports her hard-as-nails character.  In this publicity shot, you can see the striking late 40’s shoulder pads and the popular dolman cut of the sleeve both of which emphasize her tiny waist.

This scene is lit to showcase this assiut gown to the perfect advantage.  Although dark, the lights set the metal ablaze as she stalks around her office.  It’s the perfect gown to wear while flirting with Hollywood’s most popular gangster, George Raft.  There’s a clip integrated into a music montage, so be prepared for some pop music if you follow this YouTube link. If you find the full film, be warned, the movie is a bit slow-moving but worth the wait to see every angle on this magnificent assiut dress.

Movie Still: June in Assiut Gown

The image above captures June at the height of Hollywood glamour.  This is one of the movie stills released by United Artists to promote the film.  These were printed as 8 by 10 black and white glossies.  Included in press releases and sent to movie theaters for film promotion, you can occasionally find these popping up in the film collectors markets, eBay and etsy.

The montage to the left are screen captures from the film.  Notice how the assiut changes in tone and texture as she moves through the various lighting conditions in the room.

For more about my research on Hollywood and Assiut, check out this article over at Gilded Serpent.
Assiut and Hollywood.