Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY

Cleaning Modern Assiut – Assuit

Cleaning Modern Assiut – Assuit

Vakasha wearing Modern Assiut

I recently received this message over on FaceBook.
(You can find me here – http://www.facebook.com/pages/Davina-Dawn-Devine/84640936617)

Hi Davina,
I bought a modern Assiut dress from a friend. It smells musty. How do I clean the poor dress?
Thank you!!  Much love,
Parizadah

Rather than limit the response to just my friend or just to FaceBook, here’s my recommendations for cleaning modern Assiut.

Hope this comes in handy for you!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina

Washing Modern Assiut

First – pound down the assiut.  Use a rubber mallet and take a whack and beat the stitches flat.   If it’s used, the former owner may have done this already – but assume she didn’t. If it’s brand new, this is an essential step. I like to use a wooden cutting board for this process.  Don’t pound assiut on an unyielding surface such as concrete or the embroidery wire can cut the fibers.  The goal of this process is to ensure that the stitches are as flat and secure as possible before laundering.  It also makes the dress more comfortable and less scratchy to wear.

Next – place in a mesh lingerie bag and machine wash on delicate setting in warm water.   Use gentle detergent or soap and a good fabric softener after the rince.  Wash ALONE…  many of these dresses don’t have colorfast dye – so – they run or crock.  Remember, modern assiut is made of cotton – so it can take regular old detergent.  Just keep it in a bag so the assiut mesh doesn’t catch on any moving parts and distort the garment.

Finally – Dry flat or hang dry on a very supportive hanger.  Remember the mesh will stretch more when it’s wet.  So laying flat is preferred.  But if you have to hang it – hang it until dry and then fold it up and put it away.  Do not store assiut in a hanging – gravity will pull the mesh out of shape. It’s best to store modern assiut rolled or loosely folded.  Avoid creasing the fabric and potentially damaging the metal stitches.

Remember: For vintage assiut, only hand wash gently in specialty soap such as Eucalan, Forever New, Orvus or Restoration (Restoration is my favorite for vintage textiles) and ALWAYS dry flat.

Special Issues:

Does your dress have coins on it?  No worries – use this same method of laundering. The washing machine will not damage coins, just be sure they are contained in a lingerie bag.

Does it have beads on it?   Test the beads for color fastness.  Some beads run or fade in laundry.  If this is the case, then hand wash it with soap in a basin or tub.

Is it falling apart?   If it has holes in it, or beaded parts that are coming apart – and you want to preserve as much as possible – then hand-wash in a basin or tub and lay flat to dry.  When it’s clean and dry, take the time to mend it before wearing to avoid further damage.

If the dress is still musty after washing?
You can try one of these other techniques:

1 – Put in a plastic box with a highly scented candle or bar of soap – the scent will permeate the fibers.

2 – Lay/hang it in the sun – the sun has amazing cleaning powers.

3 – Hang it near incense and let the sent perfume the dress.  This is an authentic method straight from the Middle East.

For fine washables - Eucalan

4 – Spritz with your signature scent.

5 – Make a sachet of baking soda and place it and the garment in a sealed plastic bag to absorb scent.

6 – Use a de-scenting product such as Fabreze(tm)

7 – Use a antibacterial product such as Endbac2(tm)

8 – Spritz with a solution of half water and half vodka – this is an old theater trick, and acts as an antibacterial.

And remember – these are all instructions for MODERN assiut.  Do not use harsh products or methods on vintage assiut!

Here are links to places where I buy my specialty cleaning products:

Lacis – http://lacis.com/catalog/

Manhattan Wardrobe Supply – http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/store/finewash.html

Categories
Assiut/Assuit

Assiut Exhibition Opens at Lacis in Berkeley, CA

Assiut Exhibition Opens at Lacis In Berkeley, CA

 

I’m exceptionally pleased that Lacis in Berkeley, CA is launching an exhibition of assuit -assiut fabrics in their upstairs gallery throughout the month of March.  Dozen of examples of vintage assiut shawls, clothing and related accessories will be on exhibit.  As you can see from their promotional image to the right, there are both natural and black shawls, exhibited in a manner so you can see nearly the entire length of the cloth.

I’m making plans to head up there soon to check out what looks to be a fantastic exhibit.
If you cannot make it, visit their website and enjoy the digital slide show they have put up for view.

Visit the Laci's Museum website to view an amazing slideshow of vintage assiut fabrics.
Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY Design

Assiut Applique – Step by Step

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance General

Assiut/Assuit in Motion – Liquid Silver

Assiut/Assuit in Motion – Liquid Silver

Apparently, I’m obsessed with assiut/assuit cloth.  Which is probably good, since I’m working on a book about this magical fabric.  However, several folks have sent me email queries along the lines of:

Hey Dawn, I’ve heard assiut/assuit referred to as “liquid silver” but when I
see assiut/assuit it looks quite stiff, can you explain?

Modern assiut/assuit can be quite stiff, and the patterns are often widely spaced upon the mesh ground cloth.  The modern fabric is made almost exclusively from short-staple cotton on modern machines which create smaller holes.  The stitches are fewer and further apart, giving this cloth a primarily black appearance.

In contrast, vintage assiut/assuit has a higher metal content and was made with finer linen fibers in a more open, looser mesh.  This allows the fabric to drape and move in a more supple way.  When this fabric is completely coated with individual metal stitches, it drapes heavily, conforming to the shape of the body beneath it, but maintaining the sheen and luster of metal.  The weight of the pounded metal in the cloth, gives the fabric a unique character during movement, that is better shown then described.  So below, I’ve assembled three videos, one modern and two that date to the 50’s, that show the unique movement and drape of heavily embroidered vintage assiut/assuit.

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Design

Top 10 Reasons to Make A New Belly Dance Costume

Adriana - Bay Area Belly Dancer wearing Assiut Bra -
Adriana wearing custom bra by Dawn Devine - Visit her website to find out more about this lovely professional dancer and instructor. http://www.adrianabellydance.com/

Top 10 Reasons to Make a New Costume

10 – You have been taking classes for a year and your teacher said those magic words ‘Recital.’

9 – Your best dance buddy got a beautiful new costume and she wants to do a duet.

8 – You finally have enough cash to afford a lovely piece of assuit or other equally expensive and drop-dead gorgeous fabric.

7 – You’ve lost/gained 30 lbs and have earned a whole new wardrobe to go with your fabulous new figure!

6 – You just took a Gypsy-esqe workshop and now need a new full skirt to dance with.

5 – This season’s ‘In’ color isn’t IN your wardrobe – yet.

4 – There’s a show coming up and EVERYONE has seen every costume you own.

3 – You couldn’t resist that shimmy belt, and now you need a whole ensemble to go with it!

2 – You just saw someone else wearing that Exclusive, Custom, Designer original you bought at the last festival.

1 – Because you CAN!

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Special thanks goes out to Adriana who is one of the featured models in my upcoming book about assiut/assiut costuming.  Visit her website for more details about her performances and classes throughout the greater San Francisco/Bay Area.