Category: Assiut/Assuit

The exotic and rare hand-embroidered cloth from Asyut, Egypt.

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General Makeup and Appearance

Every Dancer Needs a Red Costume

Bay Area dancer Setareh in Red Assiut Costume
Bay Area dancer Setareh in Red Assiut Costume

Every (American) Dancer Needs A Red Costume

Bay Area dancer Setareh in Red Assiut Costume
Bay Area dancer Setareh wearing a Red Assiut Costume

There are many costuming options for a dancer to choose from. From the glamour of beads and sequins to the earthiness of tribal and folkloric costumes, the options can be overwhelming. Many dancers start by selecting a specific feature. Color is one of the most obvious first choices, but there is a rainbow of colors to choose from. Where does one begin? White has been popular over the last few years and purple is always a winner. Green, the color of money, could send the job opportunities through the roof. Pastels, neons and jewel tones are all available to tempt a dancer’s eye. But without a doubt, the most versatile color of all is red.

Red? Not black, that most basic and “safe” of colors? Not blue in shades from sky to cobalt? But red! For the American dancer a red costume is a foundation for an entire year’s worth of specialty and theme costumes. In February, paired with pink accessories and heart motifs, the red bra and belt set is sure to set hearts afire at those special Valentine’s dinner shows.

In May, for Memorial Day, a red costume can symbolize the loss of loved ones on the field of battle. Simply accessorize with gold, alluding to the medals worn by our country’s heroes.

In June, the red costume can be the perfect color to brighten dad’s spirits on Father’s Day. While in July, a white skirt and long blue gloves can turn the red costume in to the perfect patriotic outfit to celebrate the Fourth of July. In September, mix up the white and blue accessories for those Labor Day events.

Add a pair of saucy little devil’s horns and a spike tail and become a dancing devil for Halloween. Or you can use add a black cape and a pair of fangs and become the ultimate vampy vamp. In November, you can pair a red costume with orange, rust and yellow accent pieces to capture the colors of turning leaves for Thanksgiving celebrations. And for those December holiday shows, a green skirt and gold accents will transform a red costume into the perfect ensemble for Christmas shows.

Specialty shows, parades and theme events will always be a little more fun if you have a costume that fits the bill. Why not invest in a red dress or bra and belt set that can be reinvented for each major holiday with accessories and accents that fit the bill? Every dancer needs a red costumes, have you made yours?

Note: This is a republishing of an article that appeared on the Costumer’s Notes eZine many years ago.  Recently, I was chatting with Lynette over at Gilded Serpent eZine and she suggested that I use the word American in the title – because the article is really targeted at dancers in the US, and I agreed. Thank you to Setareh for allowing me to share this lovely action photo.  The rest of the article is the same, and it’s as true today as it was then! Happy Holidays! ~ Davina ~ Dawn Devine

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance

Three Day Assiut Challenge – Wrap Up

Davina's 3 Day Assiut Challenge Bra and Skirt Ensemble

It was a great weekend of workshops and performances at Bedouin Bazaar in San Diego.  I was pleased to debut my brand-new assiut bra and skirt ensemble.  It was gratifying to receive some great complements on my tossed together look. Especially the bra.  Thanks everyone!

Davina’s 3 Day Assiut Challenge Bra and Skirt Ensemble.  Photo by Jamie Hanrahan

Once the skirt is finished, it will hang about two inches lower than it did for this performance, but the 20 safety pins that held the skirt panels to my pants stayed put and did not come undone.  To protect the assiut, I used a black faux-pashmina shawl as a hip wrap under my simple kuchi belt.  All in all, I was pleased with the results, thought I would like to craft  a much more prominent belt and find a better solution than this body stocking for my tummy.  Like most costumes, it’s a work in process.  I’ll get those changes made – for next time!

Unfortunately, the day of the event, I realized that I had forgotten my tie-top!  Oh no!  I’m not thrilled about dancing bare-armed at this stage of my career and at my current level of body confidence, so I needed to quickly  find a cover-up solution. I took a quick turn around the vendor’s tables, but couldn’t turn up a tie-top, choli or sleeves that would work.

I remembered a tribal costuming trick I learned back in the 90’s.  A pair of little girl’s tights can be quickly cut,  converting the legs into sleeves.  I sent my booth assistant (actually it was my mum) to Target on a quest for girl’s tights. However, they had none in black, so instead, she picked up a pair of leggings.  For quick down-and-dirty solution, it worked. The directions for transforming a little girl’s pair of stretch pants into sleeves, check out my next blog post.

I had a great time performing to live music by John Bliezikjian and the Bedouin Bazaar band. I adore John’s lush voice when singing slow romantic tunes and his silky, rich tones are inspiring to me for sensual veil and taxim pieces. Turquoise is my favorite color and I was pleased to dance with a lovely silk veil from Judeen’s booth (only $40 and lush, I love the way it moved.)  to add a punch of color and flow.

Since I am currently working on my assiut research project, I was exceptionally pleased to spot Judeen wearing an amazing vintage assiut tunic.  Naturally colored, and dating back at least 80 years, this costume was gorgeous.  Densely patterned, the drape was amazing.  Here’s a great shot of her in motion and a detail shot of the lush designs.

Judeen in vintage Assiut/assuit dancing to John Bilezikjian. Photo by Jamie Hanrahan
Detail of Judeen’s Vintage Assiut/Asuit Tunic

 

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY Design

Three Day Assiut Challenge – Day 4

Jean Jingler I selected for my embellishment. This is one of my last fiew, and I believe it didn't get selected because the contrast between the brassy triangle and the bright silver of the chain.

Well.. I didn’t quite get that bra done in 48 hours, but all hope is not lost.  Today was the Saturday of Bedouin Bazaar and I had a bit of time between watching performances, catching up with old friends, and selling books, to do a bit of work.  While the bra was mostly done, I had a few things that needed to be addressed.  First, it needed something – anything – done to the center front to give it a bit of swing and flash. After I had laid out all of my jewelry, I found one of my jewelry pieces, a Jean Jingler, would work admirably for a decoration on this bra.  If not permanently, than perhaps just for this weekend.

Jean Jingler I selected for my embellishment. This is one of my last fiew, and I believe it didn’t get selected because the contrast between the brassy triangle and the bright silver of the chain.

However, when I laid the piece out I noticed that there were not enough coins to reach all the way to the clasps.  So, I had a bit of work to do.  So while I was hanging out at the show, I cannibalized s bracelet and applied them to the selected Jean Jingler to fill in the gap.

This gap is too big for my tastes, so I need to add a few coins.
Gap filled, time to apply to the bra.
The center piece needs to be firmly stitched at the center front. I stich it to the bottom edge using a double strand of upholstery thread.
For the outer edges, I stitch on a tailor’s loop to serve as an anchor point for the clasp.

Lather, rinse, repeat.  I made a tailor’s loop on the other side as well and hooked the clasp.  At that point, I started doing some cleaning up of the stitching, making the front angles a bit neater, cleaning up some of the loose edges.  When I was “done enough” because, you know, this kind of finishing work can go on forever, I paused and held the bra up to me.   The appearance of this bra caused a but of a fuss as the vendors around me oohed and ahhhed over the progress.  Thanks to Jackson for snapping this picture of me.

And here I am, holding up the bra for a peek. I think this will work!
David of Scandinavia preparing for performance Bedouin Bazaar

Although I think it’s good enough for now, I’m interested in finishing up the edges around the center a bit better.  I think some trim or another piece of assiut as an applique to cover the plain black triangle. This Jean Jingler looks pretty good.  I think I’m going to leave it as is for tomorrow’s performance.

I was especially excited to see that I wasn’t the only person with assiut at the event.  David of Scandinavia performed in a fantastic robe.  He was in the middle of preparing for his piece and posing for pictures with some fans.  I really love the diamond grid pattern with snow-flake like pattern down the back of his robe and the row of heart-enhanced camels in a band near the hem.

I hunted through the dealer’s offerings and found another assiut gem.  But I’ll have photos of that later.  For now, I’m going to hit the hay… Tomorrow, a live performance with John Bilezikjian!

Happy Costuming!  Dawn Devine ~ Davina

ps – Oh yes, I know, my three day challenge turned into a four day event.  But I really like the way this bra is turning out.  I’ll follow up with finishing details when I get home and back to the studio. ~ D

 

 

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY Design

Three Day Assiut Challenge – Day Three

Detail of the right ceenter of Assiut Bra. You can really see how many little darts I pinned into place to get those radiating lines.

Hello Friends in Dance and Costuming,

At the end of day three of this assiut challenge, and what have I got done?  Well, most of the bra and a pinned together skirt. Today, I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with the numerous darts.  Usually, when I’m covering a bra, I use one or two darts.  But in this case, I was attempting to divide the darts, spreading out excess fabric, so that under each strip is a mini dart.  I started with the top three strips at the tops of each cup and adjusted and fiddled with each subsequent stripe, trying to make the right side match.  Moving from one side to the other  ensures that the stripes are as symmetrical as I can get them. I invested quite a bit of time positioning each stripe and dart, nearly three hours!  And boy, did I used a LOT of those whimsical (yet dull) pins!

Each stripe had to be carefully pinned into place one at a time to create good symmetry.

I always pin and look Pin and look. Pin and Look. At one point, I actually made sure all the little tips were buried and tried it on!  When I was satisfied with the position of the stripes, I then  and made sure that the darts were all carefully folded and tucked.

Here you can see me slipping a finger into one of these numerous small darts.

And then I sewed like mad!

Hours later, several cups of coffee and a lot of TV.  (Yeah Project Runway, Chopped, and Engineering an Empire to name a few who kept me company while my head was down and my needle was up!)

Assiut Bra Cups – Nearly done!

Sadly, I did all this stitching in black thread, so it’s difficult to see the details, but here’s the best shot I could get.

Detail of the right ceenter of Assiut Bra. You can really see how many little darts I pinned into place to get those radiating lines.

And I’m done for day three.  What’s left to do?   First, I need to come up with a solution to make the center front of the bra beautiful and finished.  In the photo above, you can see the thickness of the pleated fabric.  I’m going to the show tomorrow, and I will search the dealer’s room tables for a piece of jewelry.  Alternately, I can place a fabric applique over the exposed triangle of bra.

Tonight, I’m packing my sewing kit up, the scraps of assiut, my books, patterns and heading over to the show tomorrow morning.   If you’re in San Diego, stop by Bedouin Bazaar, drop by my booth and say “HI,”

I’ll work on that center front panel tomorrow!  ~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY Design

Three Day Assiut Challenge – Day Two

Bra Base for Quickie Assiut Costume - Frederick's of Hollywood Exxtreme Cleavage Bra

Hello Friends in Dance and Costuming,

It’s day two, and boy, am I worried about not getting this all done!  But you know, I only really need to get it “done enough” because my motto of the moment is “Done is GOOD!”   Actually, that’s sort of the motto for my whole life.  With the skirt taken care of, with two cuts and 20 safety pins, it’s time to tackle project two, the bra.    There really is no way to fake this bra.  I’m just going to have to put my nose to the grindstone and stitch like mad!

First, I grabbed out my black bra.  This is an Exxtreme Cleavage bra from Frederick’s of Hollywood.  (Find it here)  I’ve been wearing this style of bra for quite some time and have made dozens of belly dance costumes from this make.  Although it’s a bit pricy, it really does create a gorgeous plunging cleavage line.

Bra Base for Quickie Assiut Costume – Frederick’s of Hollywood Exxtreme Cleavage Bra

I love this palm-tree motif with alternating short and tall palms.  Before I started cutting, I played with the layout of these stripes on paper.  Once I sketched out my possible designs, I wrote down my order of procedure, so I wouldn’t leave out any important steps.  And in the spirit of full disclosure, here are my sketches.  Thus proving, you don’t need to be a great artist to be a good costume designer.

Notes on assiut layout over cups. Man, I need to work on my penmanship before I share more prelimenary sketches! ! 😉

Okay – So now that I determined that I am insane for picking the hardest design I could come up with for this piece of assiut, it’s time to start applying the fabric to the bra.  I start by laying out one cup first, measuring the cloth to make sure that if I cut the cloth, I still have enough fabric to make the other side.  Thankfully, I do!

I like to begin at the main focal point, which for this bra is the center front.
From the center front, I work outward along the upper edge of the cup. I decided to put in three tight bands of the palm-tree trunk pattern at the edge to make a very dense and eye-catching strip of silver.
Once the upper edge is pinned into place, I return to the center front to make a series of little pleats, folding in the plain black under the palm-tree trunk stripes.
Once the center front seemed densely silvered and lovely, I figured out which stripe I could use for the bottom edge. Here you can see the excess cloth is still attached. ALWAYS ALWAYS measure twice and cut once. (because fabric won’t grow back – darn!)
Take a deep breath and cut. I know what you are thinking. I cannot cut assiut! But fear not – it’s just fabric. I’m using new assiut from Egypt. And while expensive, it’s not THAT expensive or difficult to get. Now – if you’ve got a VINTAGE piece, that’s a different story. Think long and hard before cutting into vintage assiut.
Gently mold the cloth around the cup. Here, I’m making box pleats to bring the cloth into the arm hole side of the cup. My goal is to sport as much of the silver embroidery as possible. So I pleat carefully, making sure not to squash the cup down and loose the bra shape. Never pull, just smooth the cloth over the bra.
After pinning the whole way around, I take a look at it now. Is there anything that looks off or jarring to my design eye? If so, now is the time to make any adjustments. Actually, I think this doesn’t look half bad, if I do say so myself!

JUST FOR THE RECORD – I HATE THESE PINS!!!   I am traveling and some of my tools have gone missing.  I ran out to the nearest pharmacy and got their only style of sewing pins.  They remind me of Lucky Charms cereal.  Blue Stars, Red Hearts, Yellow Butterflies.  They are wimpy,  dull, and are not coming home with me! I long for my lovely yellow-headed quilting pins and my sleek extra long silk pins.   *sigh*    Next week!

And now, it’s time to replicate this design on the other cup.  Just a few words on this process.  Follow the same steps in order, and you will get closer results.  Don’t be shocked if you need to do more pinning and futzing with it to make it match.  What ever you do, don’t sew down the first cup!  You might find it easier to adjust both to match rather than trying to make one look just like the one you just sewed.  Once you’ve sewn it, you’re not going to want to rip it out!

Now – it’s time to cover another cup.  (This time I don’t have to stop to take pictures, Yeah!) and then the sewing like mad portion of the project begins.   Check out the next post to see how it turns out.  ~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina

 

Sewing Assistant – Sammy waiting for me to drop something.. anything… There is nothing in the world as energetic and potentially dangerous than a 5mo old kitten!

PS – Special Thanks to Jamie Hanrahan for letting me use his dining room table, light and most importantly, the use of his sewing assistant Sammy.  This beast is diabolically cute, but I miss my well-trained old-lady cat Sassy who is most expert at finding “the middle” of every piece of cloth.  Just an FIY – Assiut is very very attractive to cats.  It’s shiny metallic bits and open network are perfect for kitty claws.  Protect your expensive fabric!  And that was my public service announcement for the day!  ~ DD~D