Egyptian Pressed Coin Trim with beads
Step-by-Step DIY tutorial

This is a classic technique for applying pressed coins to any costume piece. This method is great for edge finishes, but works equally well when stitched to the surface of the garment.

These photos are from a major assuite project I’ve been working on for the past few months. These head-to-toe ensembles are composed of a purchased assuite robe, and custom bra and belt sets. Along with a black bra and a pair of black harem pants, these five pieces create three fantastic head-to-toe looks.

The assuite robes were purchased on the internet. These robes didn’t fit very well, being exceptionally boxy. Our goal was to transform the robes, reshaping them into beladi dresses by nipping in the waist, reshaping the sleeves and neckline and adding coin trim to the hem and sleeves. The trim adds movement, shine and the lovely light tinkling sound we associate with Egyptian coin costumes. This last step is documented in this tutorial.

Materials:
Pressed Metal Coins – These coins were purchased via the internet (Check eBay for best prices – but don’t forget to shop your vendor friends to support your local dance community!) They come in a variety of sizes, this .5″ diameter coin is pretty standard and widely available. Rule of thumb – the bigger the coin – the less time spent sewing! How do you calculate how much you need? Measure all your edges. Lay-out how dense you want the coins to appear when you are done. Measure how many coins per inch. In this case, I needed 70″ of hem per dress. I wanted the coins to be 2 per inch, so I needed 140 coins per dress. But always buy more – I recommend double what you need! Why? Well, these are pressed metal, which means the hole you will be sewing through is really sharp. These coins will cut through the threads faster than you can say yallah, so keep a pile in reserve to make repairs.

Beads – Stitching through a bead allows the coins to flip and twist and are the key to allowing enough movement to create that light musical jingling sound. Because I prefer to stitch using a milliners needle, I try to buy beads with large holes. These were purchased inexpensively from a local craft store. Any small sized bead will work for this purpose including seed beads and rocailles.

Thread – The sturdier the thread, the more resistant to cutting and breaking your finished work will be. I like using a heavy weight button twist or an upholstery thread. Nylon thread will be more cut resistant than cotton. Rayon thread is the most delicate and I recommend avoiding. I once new a dancer who liked to work with kevlar thread for this kind of work. This thread is the strongest in the world, has a high price tag and is difficult to work with. But she never lost a coin! For this project, I’m using upholstery thread.

Needle – Your beads will determine the type and style of needle you choose to work with. I bought large seed beads to accommodate my needle and because they are easier to work with and add a little bit more shine when done. get needles that will easily pass through the beads you have.

Other items – Other tools you will need complete this project, you will also need a pair of scissors and I highly recommend using a thimble. I also recommend using beeswax or thread conditioner to help keep your thread from twisting or knotting as you stitch. You might want to measure and mark your stitching locations using chalk and a tape measure or ruler to measure.

Order of Construction:

Pack a repair kit – Pressed coins are sharp where the hole is punched. This style of coin will slice through the thread over time. Since you’re stitching this yourself, you can prepare a kit to mend and repair your costume as needed.

Top Tip – Recycled candy tins are my favorite way to store specialized repair kits. I use inexpensive bobbins so matching thread is available without hunting for everything. Be sure to label your tin with a quick hand-written label or get fancy with a photo of yourself decoupaged to the top.