Category: Costuming DIY

Articles about designing, making and renovating costumes for fun and dance.

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY

Pink Floral Belly Dance Costume in Action

Hello Gang!

I love it when I get to see my creations take the stage.  As a costumer, I don’t always get to every event, and sometimes I make belly dance costumes that I never get to see in action.  But this time I’m in luck!  Shalimar sent me some footage of her performing at a live event on the east coast.

Belly Dance Bra with Rouching

For this costume, I started with a typical Olga plunge bra with underwire. (Recently I’ve been LOVING working with the Olga “No Side Effects” Contour Bra, it offers great coverage and support)

I covered it with the left-over holographic stretch fabric from her Pink Mermaid ensemble.  I really like using as much of my off-cuts and scraps as possible to save my client’s cash.  It’s also good for the environment, so in making two costumes, we were able to really stretch the budget.

After covering in the spandex base cloth, I used very affordable flat tear-drop shaped sew-on rhinestones (similar to these) and round pointed or Rivoli shaped stones (similar to these) to create a “floralesque” pattern along the tops of the bra cups.  Once these stones were in place, I pleated the floral georgette border print onto the cups and straps.

Two Pink Belly Dance Costumes – Two Different Vibes

The cost of the rhinestones, beaded fringe, pink holographic spandex, and floral georgette were shared between two costumes. The georgette costume used the “leftover” sew-on rhinestones and spandex.  So when you are planning your next costume and want to save some dollars, I recommend picking a color that you like and design a pair of costumes.  Best part?  She can wear either skirt with both bedlah sets, adding in some versatility to her wardrobe.  Learn more about those sleeves.

Shalimar in two pink costumes by Dawn Devine of Studio Davina

Please take a moment to like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel for more belly dance performance and costume video content!

Best of luck on your costuming adventures!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
August 6, 2019

PS:  Oh, and thank you for clicking through to Amazon – using my affiliate codes doesn’t cost you any more, but it helps me cover the expenses of running a large website!  I couldn’t do it without your support.

Categories
Costuming DIY

Golden Goddess Belly Dance Costume part 3 – Building the Structure

Take Measurements

Once I’ve collected all the materials and supplies together, I reconnect with my customer for a fresh set of measurements. I also take any specialty measurements that are unique to this particular costume. I use a ready-made client measurement sheet that I label and date.

When I’m finished with the project the measurement chart gets added to my client binder.  This is especially important if it’s been more than three months.  Bodies change through time, so having a fresh accurate set of measurements is essential for getting the best fit.  Studio Log on Etsy

Make the Patterns

The next step in the process is to make the patterns for all of the components of the costume.  For this bedlah set, there are 7 parts to the costume:

  • Bra Cups
  • Bra Straps
  • Bra Bands
  • Belt Front
  • Belt Back

For each of these components, I choose the best approach for making patterns for these components.  In the greater world of fashion and costume design, there are only three main methods for making patterns: drafting, draping, and flat pattern.

Flat Pattern Method for the Belt

I’ve had the pleasure of working with Shalimar before, and I have a good belt pattern.  I like to use manila file folders for their perfect combination of durability and affordability. I create a basic belt pattern using a sloper pattern like the Butterick B5627 for ladies and Butterick B5628 for women’s sizes.

The nice part about using manila file folders is that I then easily store the pattern pieces because they have built-in folds that make them convenient for storage.  Active customer patterns I keep in a filing system.  For customers I work with infrequently, I store their pattern pieces in a large envelope.

Drafting Method for the Bra Band

When it comes to the bra band, I draft the pattern using a clothing ruler.  (I recommend investing in an affordable fashion curve set like this one to experiment with before buying more expensive curves. The curve picture is long discontinued.)

Every commercial bra is completely different so I make a fresh new bra band pattern for each project.

Draping Method for the Cups

My key to having beautifully covered bra is to drape a pattern for each belly dance costume.  For this costume, I used a very simple draping technique like the one I demonstrate in my book “Embellished Bras.”  If you haven’t gotten a copy of this book, you can pick one up directly from me on Etsy or on Amazon.

Build The Structure

One of the key things that separate costume construction from simple household sewing is the high level of embellishment and the durability of the inner structure.  I break down the costume construction process into three major phases:  Structure, Embellishments, and Finishing.  Between each of these sewing stages, I plan a fitting with my client to ensure that the costume fits, and we’re moving in the right direction.

I use the same method of construction for the bra band and I keep the materials and supplies in stock.  To keep the construction costs down, I buy wholesale in bulk and that way I can pass on the savings to my clients.  These are the layers of the inner structure.

  • Buckram – This is a cotton mesh that’s impregnated with starch to make a stiff layer that will support the costume, but also mold to the body of the dancer over time.  I like to buy this in the 10yd bolt.
  • Grosgrain Ribbon – Because the buckram will stretch, I like to use grosgrain ribbon to help control the shape of the costume.  This increases the durability and longevity of the costume. I keep white and black in stock and it saves a ton of money buying it by the spool over purchasing it by the yard in your local fabric store. I also buy discontinued colors when I have the opportunity to save even more!
  • Thickening Layer – Depending on the project I will choose a different product.  Some of my favorites are to use Heat’n’Bond Fusible Fleece which adds a little bit of loft, up to using sew-on white fleece.

I use a combination of sewing and fusing to create the bra bands and belt structure.  Last year I wrote a blog post that has some photos of this structure from a previous costuming project.  READ: “Building Firm Belly Dance Bra Bands.”

Making Straps

For the bra straps, I take a very simple construction route.  I simply use two layers of grosgrain ribbon stitched together.  Because I like to change up the width of the straps on for my designs, I also keep narrower and wider versions of grosgrain ribbon for variations.

Fit the Costume – Client Meeting Three

Next, I schedule a fitting with my client for a fitting after the inner structure is built.  If there are changes that need to be made in fit, this is the time to adjust. My goal is to always have the structure fit perfectly before I cut into my expensive embellishment fabric.

After this fitting, I make any essential fitting adjustments and prep the costume for the next phase of construction.

If you have any questions about the design and construction process, come join the conversation on FaceBook in my Studio Davina Group.

Next week – my favorite part – embellishing the costume!

Happy Dance and Costume,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
March 5, 2019 

Golden Goddess Series

Categories
Costuming DIY General

Self-Care Tips for Sewing Hands

I’ve been a professional costume maker for more than 30 years.  My hands have logged many hours at the sewing machine, wielding an iron, or pulling a needle. In order to maintain and sustain my hands for another 20 years of sewing, I’ve been implementing a variety of strategies to keep my hands in good condition. So today I’m sharing my top six tips for keeping your sewing hands in tip-top shape!

Pre-Game Routine

Trim and Smooth Nails

Before I do any sewing, I give myself a mini-manicure.  My goal is to make sure that my nails are smooth to avoid catching on thread or fabric. Once the nails are in decent shape, I take a moment to lotion my hands up.  Not only will this process soften my skin, but I’m also giving myself a mini-massage.  It’s just nice to give these hard-working muscles a little TLC before I abuse them.

Warm up your hands

Taking a moment to stretch your hands before you dive into a long sewing session.  Because I’m a belly dancer, I start with a slow piece of dance music and work on smooth flowing wrist, hand, and finger moves.  Hand waves, finger ripples, wrist circles, and finger taps. Then when my warmup song is over, I give myself a little stretch.  Over the past few weeks, I’ve been warming up to the song “Yearning” by Raul Ferrando.  Listen here on YouTube.  Of course, any slow music you enjoy will work. The goal is to keep your hands moving for 3-4 minutes.

During Sewing Sessions

Take Frequent Breaks

Over the years, I’ve learned that I’m more productive if I take regular breaks rather than sewing for long unbroken stretches. I like to use the Pomodoro method to manage my time.  In a nutshell, a Pomodoro is a 20 minute time interval.  For me, I sew for 20 minutes and then take a short 10 min break. After working for 4, 20-minute segments, I take a longer 30-minute break. I always have my phone nearby, so I use the built-in timer with a “gentle” alert sound. When I hear the sound, it reminds me to give my body a break.  I stand up, I stretch, I put on some music and have a wiggle.

Pause to Hold Something Warm

When I’m taking my 10-minute breaks, I like to spend some of that time warming up my hands.  Preparing a hot beverage and spending some quality time cuddling your mug.  When I’m spending a lot of time sewing, I will use a rice-sock to warm up my hands.  I filled a crew sock with three cups of rice and tied the sock in a knot.  I toss it into my microwave oven for about a minute, or a minute and a half.  Then I old the sock in my hands during my break. 

Sometimes when I’m ready to get back to work I’ll lay the sock over my shoulder or tuck it between my back and the chair.  Of course, petting a warm cuddly kitty or pup is another great way to warm the hands!  At right, my studio assistant Stormy reminds me that the timer sounded and it’s break time!

Invest in Comfortable Tools

Over time, I’ve learned that I can work longer and have more control over my tools if they are designed ergonomically with chubbier handles.  I’ve also lightened the load, replacing all metal shears with lighter-weight versions with plastic handles. Switching from tiny or skinnier handled tools to easier to handle larger versions will help you get a better grip!   You can even find spring loaded scissors that will assist in the cutting process. While sewing tools can be quite expensive, replacing over time.

Ergonomic Handle Seam Ripper

Last December, I commissioned a custom “chubby” seam ripper from my wood-working brother.  He created two for me, one in wood and one out of acrylic.  He dubbed it his creation “Jax, the Seam Ripper” and he’s now got them for sale on Etsy.  This tool has been the best change I’ve made lately.  Seam ripping is always a pain, but having a better tool means that it only hurts my ego not my hands!  Check out his store and if you decide to pick one up, tell him I sent you!

Use Thimbles and Needle Pullers

When hand sewing, I find it essential to wear a thimble to aid in pushing the needle, and a silicon thread puller to help me grab the needle and pull it through.  I keep a selection of different styles of thimbles, (my favorite metal thimble) which I choose depending on my project.   My goal is also to reduce the amount of thread drag, so I always prep with beeswax.  When I’m settling in to do a lot of hand sewing, I will pre-prep several needles with thread, wax them, then hit them with an iron to melt the beeswax.  Having them ready to grab at a moment means keeping my sewing flow going.

Practice Hand After Care

Once I’ve completed my sewing time, I like to give my hands a little TLC.  Fabric can pull the natural oils from your skin. Other fabrics can scratch the surface of your skin, specifically fabrics covered with sequins, metallic ribbon, and rhinestones.   I have a three-step hand care routine that I use after each major sewing session.

First, I like to wash my hands in warm soapy water to remove any crocked dye and dust.  Sewing can make your hands very dirty.  Next, I take a moment to treat my cuticles and check my nails for breaks. Then I finish up by using the hand cream du-jour.  If you are like me, you might have a collection of hand lotions to choose from. Personally, I  love mixing up what I use so I keep a tray of lotion and hand care tools near my workstation. 

If you aren’t stocked up, I recommend picking up a lotion that has a texture that works with your skin and a scent you love. The lotion that you reach for and use is the one that is best for you!   Currently on my desk is a Body Shop Satsuma Hand Cream,  a small travel-sized Caudalie Hand & Nail lotion, and some Aveeno Skin Strengthening hand cream.  (I’ve included links – but I buy my hand lotion on sale at my local TJ Maxx.)

The Ultimate Treat: Hot Wax

But if you want a SERIOUS treat for your hands, invest in a hot wax machine.  There is nothing that provides a such a deep and penetrating heat as a dip into hot wax.  On days when I have a lot of sewing on my schedule, I turn the unit on in the morning and then treat my tired hands to a dip when I’m done working. Here’s an affordable model over on Amazon but these are often available on the used market so check your local craigslist and thrift stores for even better deals.

This might sound like a lot of work, but these steps are part of a routine that really help me keep my hands in great shape for plenty more years of sewing!

Happy Costuming,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
August 4, 2018

 

 

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Mixing Faux and Modern Assiut

Swirl is my informal performance group composed of my proteges and myself.  For our spring performance at HaflAdira in Willow Glen, CA, we put together a set of coordinating costumes using a combination of existing costume pieces, faux assiut, and modern assiut.  Here’s how these costumes came together.

Pulling From the Closet

Before we started costuming, we decided to do individual costume inventories.  Zemira had this gorgeous black “Bessie” skirt from the Fat Chance Bellydance studio. in her collection and this was the perfect opportunity to integrate into our trio.  Vakasha owned a Melodia “Mythica” skirt in the black and silver colorway.  I have a Melodia skirt in the same fabric but in the “Cleopatra” cut.  Since these three skirts coordinated beautifully, we decided to use these as our starting out point saving us time and money!

To make a complete a head to toe costume, we decided to unify the look by using matching body stockings.  Zemira and I already had these in our wardrobe and Vakasha picked up hers from Dahlal International.

Faux Assiut from Melodia Designs

It became clear that we were going to have to craft a trio of bras to out of the glorious Melodia faux assiut fabric.  As a team, we invested in an Infinity Scarf to be our sacrificial garment.  I took this tube and cut it apart.  There was enough fabric to create all three bras with a significant amount of cloth left over.

Zemira also bought an Infinity scarf to wear as a hip treatment over her solid black skirt. Since her scarf didn’t have fringe, I elected to use a similarly shaped piece of modern assiut to echo the shape.  Vakasha used a pair of V-shaped assiut triangles for her hip treatment, and when viewed together, they worked in visual harmony.

Custom Bras to Coordinate

To craft our faux assiut bras, we began with underwire and padded bras either from our wardrobes or new from the store.  I really feel that it’s important to get the bra that really works not only for your size and shape, but also to give you the coverage and support that you are happy with.  No two commercially made bras are the same, and the only way to find one that works for you is to go shopping and try on a lot of bras.

Once the bras were in my workbench, I pieced the faux assiut fabric onto the cups, to create three different styles.  Each bra is laid out symmetrically, from different parts of the assiut pattern.  Before I sew, I pin both cups into place to ensure that they match as closely as possible.  Then I hand sew the fabric into place.

Embellishing with Saroyan Coins

Once the faux assiut was appliqued onto the bra bases, we decided to pull some silver coins from our collections.  Vakasha had some leftover Saroyan silver “Nefertiti” coins left over from a previous project. I had some “Venus” coins and together we pooled our resources and used what we had to embellish all three bras. These coins are currently discontinued, but there’s a small quantity left on the Saroyan website.  If they spark your interest, be sure to head over there soon before they are completely gone.

These costumes are comfortable, stylish, and were actually quite affordable.  I was so happy that we shopped our wardrobes and worked together as a team to create these ensembles that we can wear together or alone.  I feel like I have a new capsule wardrobe that I can use as a base to create a variety of different looks.  I’m excited to experiment with different options in the future.

Do you like these costumes?  Check them out in action below.  And remember, if you go to YouTube, be sure to like it if you like it!

Now, I’ve gotta get back to the studio to make another costume!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Monday, June 11, 2018

Watch Our Performance

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY General Publications

120 Years of Belly Dance Costume

Mahin and One World Dance & Music Studio Present

120 Years of Belly Dance Costume Design

Digital workshop with Dawn Devine ~ Davina

SATURDAY, JULY 14th  2:00 PM PST

Early Registration for Online or In-Studio Viewing: $15   After July 1st: $20
Reserve your ticket today!

120 Years of Belly Dance Costume Design is one of my favorite workshops to present. For the first time, I’m presenting this workshop to a worldwide audience! If you are interested in belly dance costume history, join me.  Grab a beverage and a snack and attend this workshop from the comfort of your own home.  I hope to see you there!

Workshop Description: 

This workshop will trace the evolution of belly dance costume over the past 120 years.  We’ll use the Chicago’s Columbian Exhibition of 1893 as our starting point.  That year, the US term Belly Dance was coined and a flood of performers arrived from the Middle East and North Africa to perform in the midways shows.

From this starting point, we will move forward in time. Discussing changes beyond the dance arts impacting the evolution of belly dance costume.  From technological advances in textiles, changes in entertainment venues, advertising methods, along paradigm shifts in the greater entertainment industry, we will trace this evolution in images and video.

This 90-minute workshop includes a digital handout. 
Sign up before July 1 for the best price.

Event Q & A:

As questions come via email, I’m sharing the questions and answers below.

Q:  I’m going to miss the lecture, can I watch a replay?

A:  Yes – but only if you buy your ticket before the lecture.  A replay will be available for all ticket holders for a month after the presentation for you to watch or rewatch.

Q:  How is this class being held?

A: This class is being shared via Zoom on the day of the event.  When you buy your ticket, you will receive an email with details on how to join the talk on the day of the event.
Hot Tip:  Download and install the Zoom conference software before the event.  It’s available for desktops, laptops, tablets, and phones.  Visit their website and follow the directions for your device.  

Q: How do I view the event replay?

A: Once the talk is over, Mahin will place the location in a private place and send you a link to view the presentation.  The link will be available for view for 30 days after the event.

Q: How do I buy a ticket?

A: This workshop is sponsored by my hostess Mahin of One World Dance and Music in Phoenix, AZ – You can follow this link and buy a ticket on the studio website.

If you have additional questions about this workshop,
feel free to email me and put “RE: Workshop Question” in the subject line!

This workshop is jam-packed with information for the belly dance costume enthusiast.  This is my passion and my life’s work and I’m so excited to be sharing it with you!

I look forward to seeing you at the talk!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Friday, June 8