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Belly Dance Costuming DIY

Egyptian Pressed Coin Trim with beads

Egyptian Pressed Coin Trim with beads
Step-by-Step DIY tutorial

This is a classic technique for applying pressed coins to any costume piece. This method is great for edge finishes, but works equally well when stitched to the surface of the garment.

These photos are from a major assuite project I’ve been working on for the past few months. These head-to-toe ensembles are composed of a purchased assuite robe, and custom bra and belt sets. Along with a black bra and a pair of black harem pants, these five pieces create three fantastic head-to-toe looks.

The assuite robes were purchased on the internet. These robes didn’t fit very well, being exceptionally boxy. Our goal was to transform the robes, reshaping them into beladi dresses by nipping in the waist, reshaping the sleeves and neckline and adding coin trim to the hem and sleeves. The trim adds movement, shine and the lovely light tinkling sound we associate with Egyptian coin costumes. This last step is documented in this tutorial.

Materials:
Pressed Metal Coins – These coins were purchased via the internet (Check eBay for best prices – but don’t forget to shop your vendor friends to support your local dance community!) They come in a variety of sizes, this .5″ diameter coin is pretty standard and widely available. Rule of thumb – the bigger the coin – the less time spent sewing! How do you calculate how much you need? Measure all your edges. Lay-out how dense you want the coins to appear when you are done. Measure how many coins per inch. In this case, I needed 70″ of hem per dress. I wanted the coins to be 2 per inch, so I needed 140 coins per dress. But always buy more – I recommend double what you need! Why? Well, these are pressed metal, which means the hole you will be sewing through is really sharp. These coins will cut through the threads faster than you can say yallah, so keep a pile in reserve to make repairs.

Beads – Stitching through a bead allows the coins to flip and twist and are the key to allowing enough movement to create that light musical jingling sound. Because I prefer to stitch using a milliners needle, I try to buy beads with large holes. These were purchased inexpensively from a local craft store. Any small sized bead will work for this purpose including seed beads and rocailles.

Thread – The sturdier the thread, the more resistant to cutting and breaking your finished work will be. I like using a heavy weight button twist or an upholstery thread. Nylon thread will be more cut resistant than cotton. Rayon thread is the most delicate and I recommend avoiding. I once new a dancer who liked to work with kevlar thread for this kind of work. This thread is the strongest in the world, has a high price tag and is difficult to work with. But she never lost a coin! For this project, I’m using upholstery thread.

Needle – Your beads will determine the type and style of needle you choose to work with. I bought large seed beads to accommodate my needle and because they are easier to work with and add a little bit more shine when done. get needles that will easily pass through the beads you have.

Other items – Other tools you will need complete this project, you will also need a pair of scissors and I highly recommend using a thimble. I also recommend using beeswax or thread conditioner to help keep your thread from twisting or knotting as you stitch. You might want to measure and mark your stitching locations using chalk and a tape measure or ruler to measure.

Order of Construction:

First Coin - Pull thread from back to front.
Pull thread through bead.
Next, run needle through the coin. At this point, you want your coin facing up, though, they will be able to flip around, it's a good habit to be consistant in the positioning of your trims
Pull your thread back up and through the bead again.
Run your needle through the cloth and knot. Don't pull the thread too tightly, or the coin will not bounce and move. Also, if the thread is too tight, there is more chance that the coin will cut through the thread.
Once you've knotted the thread above the coin, use a slip-stitch to move to your next location. With assuite, you can really see the needle sliding through the fold made by the hem.

The final result, an edge finish with that touch of Egyptian bounce, shine and musical jingle.

Pack a repair kit – Pressed coins are sharp where the hole is punched. This style of coin will slice through the thread over time. Since you’re stitching this yourself, you can prepare a kit to mend and repair your costume as needed.

Top Tip – Recycled candy tins are my favorite way to store specialized repair kits. I use inexpensive bobbins so matching thread is available without hunting for everything. Be sure to label your tin with a quick hand-written label or get fancy with a photo of yourself decoupaged to the top.

Categories
Belly Dance

Free Workshop – Amazing Arms – Sat. April 30 – 3:30pm

Swirl - Zemira, Safiyah and Davina by Michael Baxter 4/11

Hello Gang,

I have the good fortune to participate in an afternoon of free dance lessons and workshops at Lunatic Fringe in Sunnyvale, CA on Saturday April 30th.  This event is being held in conjunction with National Dance Week.  This afternoon of dance begins at 1:30 with fitness dance hybrid classes offered by Kamilla.  Then the smoking-hot Adriana will be teaching two 45 minutes workshops.  I follow Adriana with an intensive hour-long workshop focussing on arms and sequential movement from spine to fingertips.  Following me, one of my former students and a fantastic dancer and teacher Rayah is teaching a combos class.  Below is the schedule – hope to see you there!

Kamilla 1:30-2:00 Into to NIA (Nonn Inpact Aerobics)
Adriana – 2:00pm – 2:45 – Technique
Adriana – 2:45pm – 3:30 – Combos
Davina – 3:30 – 4:30 – All About Arms
Rahah – 4:30pm – 5:30 – Combos

See the Lunatic Fringe Newsletter for more info on these and other upcoming events at the store & studio!

Categories
Belly Dance General

Davina’s Performances from 2010

Hello Gang,

Several people have written, asking if I had any recent performance video available.   In 2010, I lost about 70lbs and spent the year wearing “soft costumes.”  A fantastic body stocking, The Alexandria from Dahlal International’s Off the Nile collection, a pant and top combo and amazing tie-dye veil from L. Rose Designs, and a pair of purple tribal pants with a couple of hip wraps from Lunatic Fringe.  Enjoy!  ~ Davina

Categories
Belly Dance General Publications

Cairo Belly Dance Video from National Geographic

Hello Dancers and Costumers,

Today I’ve returned to my desk after attending Rakkasah West in Richmond California. I really had a great time enjoying the performances, shopping the dealers and reconnecting with dance friends near and far. Before I sit down to write my Rakkasah Trend Report for 2011, I thought I would take a moment to share with you a really good little video clip from National Geographic.  In an effort to record the cultures of the world, National Geographic has made a series of video clips available on the web featuring such culturally rich ethnographic arts such as music, dance and theater.    I found this clip on Belly Dance in Cairo captures the sentiment of what is happening over there in the world of dance.  Check it out!

Categories
Belly Dance General

Belly Dance for Fun and Fitness

Davina with Veil

Belly Dance for Fun and Fitness

Starting February 1
Tues. 6:30 – Lunatic Fringe in Sunnyvale.
This is 50 minutes of low-impact belly dance movement. Strengthen your arms, your core, your bottom and thighs. I’ve lost 50+ lbs and will share with you the moves and strategies that helped get me there. 
$15 dr…op in, $60 for 5 classes, $100 for 10 classes.

If you would like more details or have questions about this new class, please drop me a line.  davina@davina.us