Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Need An Instant Costume? Just Add Assiut!

Need An Instant Costume?  Just Add AssiutI’m please to announce that Andelee, over on the  website has just published my article “Need an Instant Costume?  Just Add Assiut!”  featuring model Nicole Simone shot by photog Alisha Westerfeld.  The article is about styling an assiut robe with a few tips that apply to dancers of any size, from size 2 to 22.

Andelee’s mission is to gather together informative articles, tips, hints and advice for us plus size belly dance.  When Alisha and I were shooting photos for the book The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut there were many photos that we would have loved to use, but simply ran out of space.  Why not take some of these wonderful photos and share them with the world and create some great content for a sister website!

Award winning plus-sized model, Nicole Simone who you can follow on Instagram here, or visit on FaceBook here, is one of the most beautiful women I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with.  Her satiny skin, clear blue eyes, wicked curves, and mega-watt star power on stage, make her a force to be reckoned with!

And guess what?  If you go and check out this article, you get to see some of Alisha’s photos in COLOR!  Cloth of Egypt was published in black and white because so much of the assiut was black and white to begin with, and b/w printing saves the reader money.  I promise that in the fullness of time, we will release another full-color book.

But in the meantime, enjoy!
Yours in Dance And Costuming,
~ Davina

July 14, 2015

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Hemming Assiut Garments by Machine

Assiut-Hem-TitleI enjoy working with modern assiut and I often use my sewing machine for seams and hems. Many dancers like to open the side seams of their assiut garments from hem to hip for maximum freedom of movement. Most ready-made assiut robes, however, arrive stitched closed to the hem. Although assiut doesn’t fray, a clean smooth well stitched hem will hang and move better.  Here are my top tips for the achieving the best machine hemming results.

 1 – Carefully open unwanted seams  Assiut has lots of holes, and it’s easy to catch them with the tip of your seam ripper, so be extremely careful when picking open seams.  I like to use a good strong light source and go very slow while taking the existing seams apart.
My favorite two seam rippers:
Classic style with ergo handle: http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Ergonomic-Design-Large-Ripper/dp/B003VWL0YO
Super-sharp scalpel style: http://www.amazon.com/Crafters-Companion-Ultra-Seam-Ripper/dp/B0006V1TBM

Assiut-Hem-Chalk-Mark

2 – Use chalk to draw your new hem line – Although your robe might have been previously sewn, you might choose to put your new hem in a slightly different line.  To achieve a clean new hemline, use a ruler and either a marking pencil, chalk, or wheel to draw your new fold line.
I keep all three of these marking tools in my kit, and pick the best one for the job.
Chalk Wheel – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-662-Chalk-Wheel-Kit/dp/B0081GYA8I/ 
Tailor’s Chalk – http://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Tailors-Assorted-Colors-Quilting/dp/B00XI64MFC
Marking Pencil – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-667-Tailors-Marking-Set/dp/B0052WSQHK

Assiut-Hem-Pressing3 – Use your iron – Using your chalk line as a guide, fold and press your new hem in to place.  If there is enough seam allowance, as there was on this blue robe, I like to fold the raw edge under during the pressing process.  If the seam allowance is too narrow, don’t worry about it.  Assiut won’t unravel, so as long as you have more than 1/8” your new hem will hold up. Tip: Since assiut is made from cotton, it will press very well when using seam – but watch out – the metal stitches can get very hot – so let it cool down before touching it.
Black & Decker Steam Iron – http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-D2030-Auto-Off-Advantage/dp/B0006ZUHR0
Sunbeam – http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-1500-Watt-Anti-Drip-Non-Stick-GCSBCS-200-000/dp/B00JPCWDS6

Assiut-Hem-Pinned4 – Pin parallel to the hem – After your fabric has cooled off pin your new hem into place. I like to  position my pins parallel to the hem with the tips of the pins pointed to the left.  This will hold the hem in place during the sewing process and will allow you to easily pull the pins out as you sew.  Avoid placing your pins perpendicular to the hem, as that can cause twisting as you remove them, or risk breaking the needle if you attempt to sew over the pins.
Pins – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-4-Inch-Quilting-Quilters-500-Pack/dp/B001UAM3UY/

5 – Use a sharp fairly thick sewing needle – When working with assiut, I always begin a new garment project with a fresh sewing machine needle. When working with modern assiut, I like to use a universal needle in a size 14, so the needle will have enough strength and a sharp enough tip to penetrate the metal stitches.
TIP: ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE EYE GEAR WHEN SEWING MODERN ASSIUT!  Although a sharp needle will penetrate the stitches, needles do get dull, and as soon as it’s dull, it can snap when it hits the metal.  I wear always glasses when sewing to protect my eyes from broken needles and shards of metal.
Sewing Machine Needles – http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Machine-Needles-Size-14-Pkg/dp/B000YZ7JAK
Protective Eye Gear – http://www.amazon.com/Radians-Remington-Protective-Eyewear-Outdoor/dp/B00KHOFWTI
Assiut-Hem-Machine-sewing6 – Sew slowly – Always go nice and slow so you can control the shape of the seam and pull your pins out as you sew. To remove your pins easily, simply use your thumb to capture the heads of the pin and as the machine pulls the fabric through, your thumb will pull the pin out of the cloth. This technique works best when using big-headed pins with brightly colored heads.
My favorite sewing machine – http://www.bernina.com/en-US/Products-US/BERNINA-products/Sewing-Quilting-and-Embroidery/BERNINA-Classic-Series/BERNINA-1008

 You can do it!  Good Luck!!!   ~ Davina
July 6, 2015

BE CAREFUL – SEW SLOWLY – WEAR EYE PROTECTION

 

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance General Publications

Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut – Outtakes of Malia DeFelice

While we were taking the photos for the book The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut, we held more than 30 photoshoots, and our models were so amazing, that we often had a difficult time selecting the images for the book.  Malia DeFelice is a dance and style icon.  She possesses impeccable taste, glamorous beauty, and timeless belly dance style that slides through the worlds of American Cabaret, North African Berber Dances, Egyptian Folklore and more.  Her breath of style and depth of knowledge on dance has made her an inspiration for dancers throughout the Greater Bay Area!   Find out More about Malia, her classes and upcoming performances on her website.  Hot Tip – check out her gallery for more fantastic images of her costuming.  Interested in seeing more?  Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut is available here on my website and over at Amazon.com.

Malia DeFelice in Vintage Assiut
Malia DeFelice in Vintage Assiut Ensemble
Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Assiut Robe Styling Tips Direct from Egypt

Davina-Looking-Down-Assiut-VJLove assiut robes, but aren’t sure how to style them? How they should fit? What type of belt would look best?  Here is a collection of videos direct from the source, Egypt.  These dancers illustrate different approaches to head, hip and jewelry embellishments.  In all cases, the performers accent their hips with belt and usually either partially or fully cover their hair.  Just remember, when you buy a new modern assiut robe, it will come in a very boxy square cut.  As these dancers clearly illustrate, the preferred Egyptian fit is tailored to a slightly loose but body-skimming cut.

 

 

This clip features Nabeweya Mustafa wearing a densely patterned assiut robe with a large diagram of what appears to be the continent of Africa across her torso accented with Egyptian cartouche and stylized star motifs. She’s casually tied an unadorned scarf around her hips, and casually wrapped a paillette edged veil over her shoulders.  Unfortunately, the sound is quite distorted, so be sure to turn your volume down.

Nabeweya Mustafa appears in this next clip as well.  Her lively Fellahin dance in the middle of a cotton field is quite charming, especially when you check out the pattern on her sleeves – which features a stylized field of plants.  She wears a triangular shaped scarf around her  hips, and at various points in her dance, she has a shawl that is worn on her head or around her shoulders.  The crescent shaped dowery necklace is traditional for Upper Egypt.

The last video features Farida Fahey and Mahmoud Reda. She’s wearing a lovely traditionally cut assiut robe with traditional rectangular construction instead of western shaped armscye. with a long black veil, and shaped silver belt.  Her assiut robe is so heavily embellished that jewelry isn’t missed.  As a side note, I really enjoy seeing the amazing Mahmoud Reda in his prime!

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Princess Farhana Features “The Cloth of Egypt” on Her Blog!

WEB-PRO-1 -PRINCESS-FARHANA-ADJ-DAWN-SQUAREThe super-glamourous author/dancer Princess Farhana featured me in a write up about “The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut!”  entitled “The Queen of Assiut.”  I’m so very honored to work with Princess Farhana, who is beyond a triple threat – working as a dancer, instructor, workshop leader, costume designer, and author! We were so pleased to feature her in a gorgeous, retro inspired rhinestone embellished assiut costume on the back cover of the book.  Alisha Westerfeld shot the Princess at the last big MECDA show, Cairo Caravan in 2013. In this photo, she is wearing a teal and blue assiut bra encrusted with rhinestones and dripping with jewelry.  This bra is part of a collaborative costume design, where I designed and built the bra and the Princess made the belt and skirt.  The white vintage assiut is very special, a treasure from the trove of the Princess.  During Cairo Caravan, I actually worked on this bra, finishing up the fitting details and the last of the embellishments.

Lynette Harris of Gilded Serpent eZine and I shared a table at this event, and during the outreach, we had the opportunity to chat with dancers, costumers, teachers, and even had a visit by the dance impresario Miles Copeland of Bellydance Superstars.  Through it all, I was pleased to get this beautiful bra completed.

Lynette-Miles-Dawn-WEB

 

FactsaIMG_0748-L about the Costume:  The turquoise and blue rhinestone costume was fun to design and build, and I wanted to take a few moments to discuss this particular bra.  The base was purchased at Target for under $20.  I bought the two colored assiut panels direct from Egypt from a vendor on eBay, total cost with shipping was $100.  The blue bi-cone Swarovski crystals were purchased from Rhinestone Guy.  The tummy drape is two necklaces from Shiny Sparkly Things.  Other materials that went into this bra includes: thread, hooks and eyes, grosgrain ribbon and buckram interfacing.  The total for materials and supplies of the bra and belt are approximately, $140.  Not bad for such a bright and blingy costume.

When the bra was completed, I gave it, and all the rest of the materials and supplies to the Princess to complete the design.  In August 2014, the completed costume was debuted at Assiut Fest, and this photo was snapped by Alisha Westerfeld.  What a beautiful costume on a lovely dancer! Wanna see it in action – check out the video below.