Assiut Hair Flower Workshop

Part 1, Wednesday, Aug. 31 – 7 pm Pacific – 2 hrs – Live via Zoom
Part 2, Thursday, Sept 1 – 7 pm Pacific – 2 hrs – Live Via Zoom
Plus workshop video replay through Sept. 30 & .PDF handout
Sign up via Patreon at the $7 or $15 levels

Come join me for a two-part workshop series live via Zoom and in replay through September 30, 2022.  Help me celebrate my acquisition of a new camera by joining me for this Bonus Workshop. We made our first major Patreon goal of raising $500 for a new camera and we’re going to put it to use in this special two-day – 4-hour long workshop.

If you’re not a Patreon subscriber, you can sign up for the class by visiting Patreon and signing up at the $7 or $15 levels for August and September. That makes this workshop as low as $14!  You will also have access to the growing catalog of replays from the past 7 months.

If you are already a member of my Patreon, THANK YOU!  

At the end of my Patreon talks, I like to ask folks if they are interested in any special topics. I recently received a few requests for “Assiut Hair Flowers.”  This sounded like an excellent idea! So, this two-night workshop is by request and my way of saying thanks to my continuing students. Please let me know what special topics you would like me to cover in future bonus workshops. Message your requests via Patreon messaging.

 

Assiut Hair Flower Workshop Details

• 4 hours – Two Nights
• Live Via Zoom with a replay available through Sept. 30.
• Demo of Three Styles:  Star, Cockade, Single Motif
• Part 1 will cover: Design, Planning, Sourcing, Cutting
• Part 2 will cover: Prepping, Constructing, Embellishing
• I’ll share a complete supplies and materials list in a downloadable .pdf

Follow this link to sign up on Patreon!

Other Patreon Classes,  August 2022

Thank you for supporting my ongoing work in research, writing, costuming, and design. It is my pleasure to share my experience and know-how with you via these ongoing classes.  To learn more about how my Patreon classes work, click here to learn more.  Check out this past blog post on the same topic.

I look forward to seeing you at a chat, sewing demo, history talk, or workshop soon!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
August 4, 2022

“Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy”
Now on the San Francisco Legion of Honor

On July 10, 2022, I had the privilege to visit the Gao Pei exhibition at the Legion of Honor museum in San Francisco. This special exhibition, “Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy” features highlights of this couture designer’s most stunning and influential garments and runs through Sept 5. 

There’s no way to describe the thrill of seeing one of these garments up close to see the amazing design, fitness, and exquisite application of rhinestones, synthetic pearls, ribbon, thread, and more.  Photos cannot do these garments justice.

Guo Pei: An Experience in Two Parts

There are two parts to this show.  On the main floor of the museum, European fine and decorative arts are presented chronologically. A regular museum viewer will experience Gao Pai’s couture work displayed throughout these galleries. 

The curator carefully selected the perfect dresses to juxtapose with the Legion’s permanent collection. These pairings create smart, effective, and often thought-provoking, visual conversations.

For example, take a look at the photo to the right. Notice how one of Guo’s cartridge pleated minidresses is strategically positioned. This dress placement, next to a Reubans portrait “Sara Breyel” c. 1611 visually demonstrates the global historical influences on Guo’s work creating a shared design DNA.

As a bonus, the display notes sometimes shared the number of hours it took to craft one of these magical garments.  Some as many as 10,000 hours of labor! I felt humbled and awed by the sheer complexity, the quality of the workmanship, and the beauty of the design.  

The curators have strategically selected some of the most expansive and volumetric garments for exhibit in the main halls.  These pieces are given plenty of space and allowing visitors to experience them in the round. For me, it was a real treat to see how Guo Pei visualized and executed her garments in every dimension and made them beautiful from every angle.

Gou Pei: Special Exhibition

The lower-level special exhibition gallery features more of Gou Pei’s work. There are six exhibit halls filled with some of the most iconic pieces of Guo’s work.

The show is dazzling. The textiles are sumptuous. Guo Pei’s garment shapes expand beyond the boundaries of the human physique. It’s almost overwhelming how impactful Guo Pei’s works are in person. They are ethereal, spellbinding, jaw-dropping, and utterly inspiring.

In the special exhibition space, the gowns, robes, and dresses are presented as mini-collections. Gou’s most striking and avant-garde pieces take centerstage surrounded by more wearable pieces.

These garments displays have a delightful theatricality that echos Guo Pei’s fashion shows. There are dramatic and often moody lighting effects, subtle music, and beautifully painted scrims that often use the interplay of light and shadow to separate and connect the displays. 

Rhinestones, sequin, beadwork, and so much more

If you are planning a trip to the Legion of Honor museum, and don’t mind seeing about 1/4 of the full Guo Pei experience, simply purchase a regular ticket. You will enjoy more than a dozen of her exquisite creations in the main halls.

You can also purchase a separate admission ticket to the special exhibition and experience many more Guo Pei pieces. It’s well worth the investment. 

If you can’t make it to the museum, but still want to experience this exhibition, I recommend picking up a copy of the exhibition catalog “Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy” available now at the Legion, through Amazon, and at other museums and art-centric book stores.

I bought the book at the Museum, and I’m absolutely smitten with it! I really hope that I will get to experience this exhibition one more time before it closes on Sept. 5.

Now, back to the studio to put this inspiration to work!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 11, 2022

PS: Follow me over on Instagram for more stunning photos from this exhibit and more!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Belly Dance Costume Design & Construction (@davinadevine)

 

I recently got a message from a dancer/costumer who was bummed that they couldn’t afford assiut fabric!  The request: My top tips for purchasing assiut, but on a budget!

The hard truth is that times are tough and inflation is hitting us all hard. Gas is expensive, and shipping costs have skyrocketed.

Here are a few of the ways that I’ve acquired affordable assiut garments and accessories over the years. One or more of these approaches might be helpful for you to bring some modern assiut into your life.

Buy Used Assiut

Belly dance as a hobby can be quite a thrill, but when the thrill is gone, a lot of folks like to destash. Join resale groups here to see if you can spot – and nap – a second-hand deal.

Buy Seconds or Damaged Pieces of Assiut

Tell your favorite dealers you are looking for a stained, torn, or damaged piece.  If you are cutting it up for costuming, you might be able to cut around those parts.

Put out the Word & Ask Your Community

You never know when you might find someone with an affordable used gem in their closet. Old costumes circulate on the used market, but some folks don’t think about selling until they have a reason.  So be sure to ask around.

Buy Scraps & Off-Cuts

You never know when some scraps, bits, and pieces are lurking in the stashes of your costuming friends. Make friends with costumers who enjoy working with assiut and watch ebay, etsy, and costuming destash groups for bits and pieces.

Team up on an Assiut Purchase to Split the Cost 

Choose simple styles, like the one I made for Basinah, that only use half or a quarter of an assiut shawl.  This one shawl made four bedlah sets!  

Buy Lower Quality

Not all assiut is the same.  While I would love to have lots of top quality assiut to work with, to save money I’ve chosen to work with less expensive pieces.  These pants below were made from a very sparse, and thus affordable, piece of assiut.

Use Sparingly as an Accent

If funds are tight, invest in just one smaller piece, and choose to use it as embellishments and focal points.  Rather than covering the whole bra, think of just the tops or center of the cups.  Instead of going all the way around a belt, think appliqued motifs at front and center.  One shawl can cover most bras and belts, with scraps left over for accessories.

Team up with Friends and Buy in Bulk

Sometimes you can team up with groups of folks in your community to make larger discounted purchases.  Contact your favorite dealers to see if they have bulk discounts.

Set up automated alerts

Be sure to like shops on Etsy and eBay.  Sign up for newsletters from dealers announcing product launches and sales. While you are signing up for newsletters, why not sign up for mine too?  Just click on the sign-up bottom at the top of the right column.

Remember the Mantra “Search and Research”

Researching and sourcing materials is an important step in the design process. Put together a mood or style board with images of costumes that inspire you.  You can find lots of assiut costuming images on my Pinterest board. Take a moment to flip through your social media accounts to see what’s happening in assiut costuming today. And of course, I’m always going to suggest exploring all the amazing images, like the ones above, in my book “Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut” available on Amazon or direct from me via the Studio Davina Etsy Shop.

Photo:  The assiut I’m wearing in this photo was purchased bit-by-bit over many years.  There’s a base robe, a shawl, a double-triangle hip treatment with hair flower scraps you cannot see tucked into the back of my headdress.

Be Patient, Be Persistent, & Best of Luck

I’ve used every single one of these strategies at various times in my dancing and sewing journey.  I hope that you find the perfect piece to complete your next design.

Be well – Dance well – Costume Fabulously,
~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June 20, 2022

This month I’ll be sharing practical tips for building, editing, or revamping your belly dance wardrobe.  During this hour-long slide presentation, I’ll be sharing professional-grade wardrobe planning strategies taken from the world of fashion.

Thinking strategically about your complete dance wardrobe will help you effectively craft your dance image, cover all of your event and appearance needs, and ultimately, save you money and time!

Join me over on the Studio Davina Patreon, home of my costuming and history workshops, talks, and lectures.  This talk is included in the $3 level or above.  Allow an hour for the slide show and Q&A live via Zoom, Monday, May 23, 3:00 pm Pacific. And if the video recording turns out, I’ll upload the replay for future viewing.

Maybe I’ll see you there!
~ Dawn Devine
May  12, 2022

Bra-LaPalooza
Week One:
Red 5-Piece
Assiut Ensemble

First up on the docket for Bra-LaPalooza is a 5-piece red assiut ensemble for San Francisco/Bay Area belly dancer Adriana. This head-to-toe look includes an assiut cropped top, assiut panel skirt, skirt topper, and a bra and belt set.

Re-Using a Beloved Assiut Robe

Adriana brought a much-loved open robe in need of a glow-up and a bra to use as a base. The original robe was purchased many years ago from Turquoise International.  But after hundreds of performances, it was time for this robe to evolve into a new stage of life as part of a full belly dance ensemble.

To make a new bedlah set, Adriana also sourced an Auden Sublime Bra from Target. This is a well-made bra with all the features I require to use as a belly dance costume piece. The Auden Sublime has firm foam cups with thick underwires. It’s my first time using it, I’ll report back on my full opinions when I’ve finished the transformation from lingerie to costume piece.

Assiut Shawl & Beaded Scarf

Our plan is to cut the robe into two pieces, creating a tie-top and a panel skirt. In order to make a coordinating bra and belt set, we needed to pick up a few more assiut pieces. While I had some red scraps, it was simply not enough to cover a large bra base and belt. So I went to Etsy to source materials and shopped from these three quality vendors.

• Craft World By Mel
• Egypt Finds
• Desiree’s Treasures

Sourcing Materials and Supplies

In the community where I reside, many fabric stores have closed up shops. We’re down to only a few Jo-Ann fabrics, and one mill-end dead stock shop. Perhaps I would also include Michaels and Walmart. In order to purchase specialty fabrics and embellishments, I have to go to the internet.

Materials & Supplies list

Wanna spend your time making, rather than researching sources for materials and supplies?  Here’s what I’m using in this red project:

• Red 100% Cotton
• Red Sequin Table Cloth
• Quilt Binding
• Buckram
• Rhinestone Chain
• 1000 Assorted Sew On Rhinestone AB
• Gros-Grain Ribbon 50 yard spools
• Bulk Black Elastic 22 yards
• #3 Steel Safety Pins 
• Long Quilting Pins
• Thread Snips
• 10″ Kai Sewing Shears
• Quilting Ruler
• Pattern Making Curve

Thank you for using these affiliate links. These links don’t add to your expense but help support my website. I appreciate your support of my ongoing work.

Now – I’m off to the sewing room to make some more progress on this red costume!
More photos and details of this assiut costume next week.
Until then, dance well, be well,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
May 5, 2022

Bonus Tip from Instagram

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Belly Dance Costume Design & Construction (@davinadevine)