Categories
General

Books For Belly Dancers: On the Shelves at Studio Davina 2020

Hello Gang, This is part two of the “On the Shelves at Studio Davina” series. In this post I would like to share my top 10 books for belly dancers. I picked an assortment of my favorites, these are all books I’ve read more than once and that have inspired my own research.  These are the books that wind up on every one of my selected reading lists and bibliographies.  These are the books that look used, are filled with marginal notes, and glow with highlighter stripes. 

If you choose to use the links below, thank you!  Your purchase helps support this blog.  However, I do recommend supporting your favorite local book store. Small businesses are struggling and it’s great to support your local community of independent bookstores.  If you are purchasing your books for yourself, always consider picking up a used book. Buying used books is good for the environment and saves money too – my favorite win-win situation.

If you are looking to grow your personal library or want to give a gift to your favorite belly dancer, check out this list of my favorite books.  As I type this, it’s Thanksgiving Day, and I’m thinking of expanding my own library with a couple of key book purchases.  If I pick something up I’ll be sure to share in a future post.  In the meantime, enjoy this peek into my research library.

Happy Thanksgiving 2020!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina

Before They Were Belly Dancers: European Accounts of Female Entertainers in Egypt, 1760-1870 by Kathleen W. Fraser – Link

This is an area that of research that perfectly dovetails into my own current research project.  Fraser has done a deep dive into the archive of travel literature to come up to find the descriptions of Egyptian dancers and entertainers.  During this era of “The Grand Tour,” many travelers returned home and published their accounts in the form of serialized journal articles, newspaper stories, informal travel guides, and personal diaries. If you are a fan of history and Egyptian dance and culture, this book is an essential read.  

Egyptian Belly Dance in Transition: The Raqs Sharqi Revolution, 1890 – 1930.  By Heather D. Ward – Link

This is a fantastic book that traces the evolution of Raqs Sharqi from informal cultural dances to stylized professional performances.  She uses primary documents such as newspaper and magazine advertisements to trace this development and the merging of Egyptian culture and taste, with the British ruling class and tourist entertainment needs.  Perfect for the fans of the history of  Egyptian dance and culture.  I picked up mine on Kindle so I can read it anywhere anytime on my phone!

The Belly Dance Handbook: A Companion for the Serious Dancer by Princess Farhana – Link

This is a fantastic book for professional dancers by a professional dancer.  Filled with useful tips and tricks, fascinating anecdotes, lots of advice for living the dancer’s life.  I’m a huge fan of Princess Farhana and recommend this entertaining and informative read to dancers at every stage in the dance journey. 

Becoming a Belly Dancer: From Student to Stage by Sara Shrapnell et al. – Link

If you are looking for a comprehensive book on being a belly dancer, look no further than “Becoming a Belly Dancer: From Student to Stage.”  I’m happy to say that I worked on this book, but it really was the brainchild of Sara Shrapnell who has taught thousands of belly dance classes on two continents and is now one of the co-owners of the Belly Dance Business Academy.  And though I’m biased because I wrote three of the chapters, I always tell people this is THE textbook of belly dance.  I recommend to students at all levels.  Topics range from mindset and goal setting, costuming and appearance, to staging and performance and beyond. This book is organized like a teaching text into logical chapters so it’s easy to find the information you’re looking for.  I was so proud of the work I accomplished with this team that we’re finishing up our next book “Pose” that will be out early next year!!

You Asked Aunt Rocky: Answers & Advice About Raqs Sharqi & Raqs Shaabi. By Morocco C. Varga Dinicu – Link

I personally have taken workshops, watched shows, and even hosted the inimitable Morocco of New York.  Rather than being organized into a narrative, Rocky has arranged her book in Q&A format, and I believe it’s like having the ULTIMATE belly dance FAQ in print.  My copy is bristling with post-it note tags, has highlighter smears and marginal notes.  It’s infused with Morocco’s vast knowledge, her wit, and wisdom, and is a treasure trove of information!

Belly Dance Rhythm Resource: What Every Dancer Should Know for a Memorable Performance by Richard Adrian Steiger – Link

A fantastic musician and music scholar, Richard Steiger, has brought together musical theory, which can help develop a deeper understanding of Middle Eastern music.  This book provides so many details, beautiful break downs, and comparisons of rhythms.  Essential for the serious dancer who wants more insights on the drum, percussion, and structure of Middle Eastern dance music.  I read this book once through, and now reach for it when I want to refresh my technical knowledge. If you like my book “Zills: Music on Your Fingertips” definitely consider picking up this book!

Bellydance: A Guide to Middle Eastern Dance, it’s Music, It’s Culture and Costume by Keti Sharif – Link

Looking for a gift for someone with an interest in belly dance?  This is a beautiful little book that serves a general introduction to the art.  The story is told through beautiful imagery and clearly explained text.  It’s like a small soft-cover coffee table book that I love to pull out every once and a while and thumb through just for the pure enjoyment of the photography.

Sisters of Salome by Toni Bentley – Link

Toni Bentley is a dance journalist and this book focuses on a subject near and dear to my research, Salomania. Although I was already interested in dancers of this period, this is the book that sparked my interest in this topic.  This book reads like a novel and presents biographical information about four important dancers in the first decade of the twentieth century.  Maud Allan, Mata Hari, Ida Rubinstein, and Colette.  This book has been part of my reading list since it was published and continues to be a much re-read book on my shelf.  I love it so much I bought it Kindle too so I can enjoy it on the go!

Serpent of the Nile by Wendy Buonaventura – Link

This book was first released as a luxurious coffee table book filled with beautiful historic images and the myths and legends that many at the time believed were the true origins of the dance. I like to describe this to people as one woman’s love letter in text and images, an ode to dance, rather than an academic tome. Through the passage of time, numerous researchers in the zone of belly dance history have used this book as a jumping-off point for their own deep dives into the history of dance. This book is an important part of our history as it was the first major publication on the subject of belly dance.

Women as Portrayed in Orientalist Painting by Lynne Thornton – Link

Way back when I was teaching orientalist art in my role as an adjunct art history professor, I always snuck this little gem of a book into the reading list. The focus of the book is discussing women as subjects for the disparate artists that worked in the Orientalist mode. The paperback version of this book is a pocket-sized visual delight. But though compact, it presents well-researched information about the various archetypes that women portrayed in these paintings. This book is part of a larger French series “Les Orientalistes” but is so revered in art history that it’s one of the few that was translated into English and continues to stay in print. 

 

Categories
General Publications

Essential Costuming Books: on the shelves at Studio Davina 2020

I like big books and I cannot lie!

I recently posted a shelfie and got an email from a reader who asked for affordable recommendations for reference books for a budding costume designer.  When I teach costume workshops, I find myself recommending the same dozen or so books.  So if you are holiday shopping for books, here are my top picks for costuming books.  I’ve included Amazon links so you can find out more detailed information about these books.

If you choose to use the links below, thank you!  Your purchase helps support this blog.  However, I do recommend supporting your favorite local book store. Small businesses are struggling and it’s great to support your local community of independent bookstores.  If you are purchasing your books for yourself, always consider picking up a used book. Buying used books is good for the environment and saves money too – my favorite win-win situation.

If you would like to pick up one of my books, check out my Studio Davina Etsy Store for my current titles in digital and print.  My print books are also available on Amazon and you can check out what’s available on my Amazon Author Page.

Costuming Reference Books: Three Main Categories

When I teach costuming workshops, I always include a reference list of what I consider essential books. These are the tried and true publications that I will find myself referring to again and again. If you have purchased one of my DIY books, you will find much more comprehensive reading lists in the back of my books.  But when I’m recommending reference books for a new costumer, I like to break them into three main categories:

  • Sewing Books – Instructional manuals for the techniques of constructing garments.
  • Design Books – Books with information on the process of design.
  • Illustration Books – Basic fashion drawing skills are essential for designers at all levels.

Sewing Books

The truth is, I own a lot of sewing books, but there are only a few I refer to over and over again. So if your budget is small, focus on picking up one all-purpose basic sewing guide.  But if you have a slightly bigger budget, or already have a basic guide, check out the rest on my shortlist.

Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing – Link
This is the book that I personally use when teaching sewing.  If you only get one sewing book – this is it!  Great info on using sewing machines, construction techniques, and finishing techniques. There are many other references that cover these essentials and really only need one in your library.  Here are links to a few other good all-purpose sewing reference books:

      • Vogue Sewing, Revised and UpdatedLink
      • Singer: The Complete Photo Guide to SewingLink
      • The Sewing Book: Over 300 Step-by-Step Techniques by Alison Smith – Link

Costumer Technicians Handbook – by Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey – Link
This book is essential for anyone who is working or looking to work in a theatrical environment does a lot of cosplay, and wants to do more than “just sew.”  My second edition copy is so beat up, with raggedy edges, a broken spine, and coffee stains from years of use. Here are a few other theatrical and historic costuming books I recommend if you’re working in theater:

      • Costume Designer’s Handbook by Rosmary Inghamlink
      • Fundamentals of Theatrical Design by Karen Brewsterlink
      • Designing Costumes for Stage and Screen – Link 

How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan – Link
This is the book I use in my own costume design classes – very affordable at about $25 and useful for anyone who sews.  But this is especially great for adapting commercial patterns into custom dancewear. I highly advocate mixing and matching pattern pieces to create totally unique garments. This book will help you understand how patterns really work.  This is a great book for students and home sewists.  If you are looking for a more in-depth pattern making or draping book, check out these titles:

      • The Pattern Making Primer by Jo Barnfield – Link
      • Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong- Link
      • The Art of Fashion Draping by Connie Amaden-Crawford – Link

Couture Sewing: Making Designer Trims by Claire B. Shaeffer – Link Here
Many of the hand sewing techniques I use for belly dance costuming come from the world of couture. In this book, you will find all sorts of hand-sewing surface embellishment techniques and machine-sewn construction details adaptable for use on dance costumes. Love this book and refer to it for both design ideas and instruction methods. And it’s a steal of a deal for under $20.  Other great books by Claire Shaeffer in my collection include:

      • Couture Sewing Techniques –  Link
      • Couture Sewing: Tailoring TechniquesLink
      • Couture Sewing: The Couture Cardigan JacketLink

Design Books

When I’m teaching costuming workshops, one of my most frequently said catchphrases is “Think Like A Designer.”  Design is a process composed of a series of choices.  During the design process, you move through different phases from inspirational spark and research to sewing and the finished design.

These are the books that I recommend to help you build more conceptual tools for approaching design projects.  These books will help you identify what skills you need to develop, help you build your own workflow for your design process, and help you learn to make faster and better choices during your projects. Here are my top three books in print today:

Fashion Design Essentials:100 Principles of Fashion Design by Jay Calderin –  Link
This is referent book introduces different design concepts in a dictionary form.  This book expands on the basic principles and elements of design into a depth and breadth to inspire you to think like a designer.

Fashion Design Course: Principles, Practice and Techniques by Steven FaermLink
Over the past three years, I’ve been using this book for my “Think Like A Designer” workshops.  Although you might only be working on costumes for yourself, if you sew for other people, or have a small costuming business, this would be a great book for your reference shelf.

Designing Costumes for the Stage and Screen by Dierdre Clancy Link
I’ve used this book when teaching costume design workshops for many years. I’m actually thinking of picking up the latest edition to replace my battered old first edition. This is title is a textbook for theatrical costuming classes at the college level.  Highly Recommended!

Illustration Books

There are a couple of essential drawing techniques that every costume designer should know how to do. These don’t have to be works of art, but they should be very informative for you. If you only sew for yourself, think of them as visual notes.  If you work with clients or sew for other people, it’s a way of communicating what’s in your mind.

  • Simple garment illustration – This will show the silhouette of the overall shape on a proportional figure, dress form, or croquis.
  • Pattern Flats – These simple drawings will help you visualize the pattern pieces needed for the garment.
  • Surface Design Patterns – These are illustrations of how you plan on covering the surface of your costumes with beading, embellishments, and fabric manipulation techniques.

Over the long 30 years of my career, my tastes and preferred style in fashion illustration have changed.  Here are my top three books currently:

Fashion Illustration & Design: Methods and Techniques for Achieving Professional Results by Manuela Brambatti – Link
Fashion Illustration books vary in taste and style, and this particular book is to my “Taste” and drawing style. It covers all the basics from establishing proportions of the body, to illustrating various textures of textiles and  I personally love the way they demonstrate skirt draping and ruffles.

Draw Fashion Now by Danielle Meder – Link
This is a wonderful illustrator who presents the same basic content but in the latest illustration style, you can spot in current fashion magazines and design house websites.  A great all-purpose fashion illustration book at a nice price.

Figure it Out!  Beginner’s Guide To Drawing People by Christopher Hart – Link
Rather than a book specifically on fashion, this one focuses on the body and movement rather than on the clothing.  Not geared specifically to costume and clothing, but it’s a fun book that I consider essential for learning body proportions.  It’s also quite affordable at about $18

Wanna spend a little more on fashion Illustration?  Check out these additional titles:

      • Fashion Design Sketchbook: Women’s Wear Fashion by Irinia V. Ivanova – Link
      • Modern Fashion Illustration: Create Trending Stories & Develop a Personal Brand by Holly Nichols – Link
      • Fashion Design Studio: Learn to Draw Figures, Fashion, Hairstyles & More by Christopher Hart – Link

What’s Your Favorite Costuming Book?

Do you have an essential that wasn’t mentioned here?  Come join the conversation over in my Facebook Group “Studio Davina: Behind the Seams” where we talk about my two favorite things, costuming and books.  (oh, and I also post too many pictures of my cats!) Or follow me on Instagram and drop me a line in the DM’s.  I’m always looking for new references and resources, so thanks in advance for sharing your favorites!

I hope that you have a creative and happy holiday season!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 16, 2020

Categories
Assiut/Assuit General

Assiut Virtual Holiday Market – Assiut Fans Facebook Group

 

Assiut Virtual Holiday Market

“Free to Post – Free to Shop”

Assiut Fans Facebook Group
Weekly Posts Every Monday
Nov. 7, 2020 – Jan. 1, 2020

This year I’ve teamed up with my “Cloth of Egypt”  co-author, photographer Alisha Westerfeld to host an assiut themed shopping/selling event in our Assiut Fans assiut group. This “Free to Post – Free to Shop” event begins the day I’m posting this. Each Monday from today, November 9, through January 1, we will be making a post and pinning it to the top.  Ordinarily, our group is a non-sales space for discussing and sharing photos, links, and information about our mutual passion – no matter how you spell it assuit, asyute, azute, or call it tulle bi telli, this is a place to share our love for this metal embroidered cloth.

Link to the Assiut Fans Facebook Group:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/assiutfans

What Sellers Are Participating?

We’ve invited dealers, makers, crafters, and even people selling pre-loved goodies from their collections to make a comment with a photo, description, price, and link to their digital store.  It’s open to everyone who has assiut, and assiut related items for sale.  Does this sound like you?  Come participate in this event by following this link to join the group and post an image in the comments of our weekly post!

How Do I Buy things?

Visit the group every Monday to see the new post, and scroll through the comments to see what’s available for sale. Details will be posted on each listing with directions for how to purchase items.  Assiut items are unique and sometimes hard to come by so this is a great opportunity to find one-of-a-kind assiut treasures.  Even if you’re just “window shopping” stop by and have a peek.

It’s so exciting to help connect textile artists, costumers, and dealers with appreciative new patrons!
Come join us for this holiday fun!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Monday, November 7, 2020.

 

Categories
General

Assiut Masks? More Coming Soon!

Hello Gang!

Over the summer I spent two months making more than 350 assiut masks.  These were made from scraps, pieces, and partial panels leftover from past projects.  When I did the costume and clothing build for my book “Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut,” I kept every little scrap, and I had a couple of bins filled with these parts and pieces.  At the time I figured I would transform these assiut scraps into costume accessories like hair flowers and headbands.

In the past four years, I’ve dipped into a bin here and there and made some pieces, but there was still quite a pile of scraps.  Fast forward to summer 2020 and a project was born!  Four bins of scraps became a huge pile of assiut masks!  I collected names in an epic wishlist and worked down the list in order.  Unfortunately, I ran out of scraps before I got to the bottom of the list!

Assiut Ordered

After many many requests from dancers via social media, I decided to invest in some new assiut panels to make another big batch of masks.  This month, however, I’ll be placing these masks onto my Studio Davina Etsy store for a more streamlined workflow and record keeping.  Working through a wishlist was fun, since I got to make pieces for my friends, fans, and extended dance family.  However, it’s time to open this project up beyond the members of my Studio Davina Facebook Group.

I’ve invested in some more black, blue, purple, red, and aqua assiut panels so there will be an assortment of colors and panels coming soon.  Be sure to visit my Etsy store and give it a like so it shows up first when you head over to Etsy.

And now that the fabric is on its way, I’m getting very excited about this upcoming project!

Happy Dance and Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina

Categories
General

Raqs Talks Interview

 

I was aboslutely THRILLED to be invited to chat with Faizah and Perizaad on their new YouTube channel “Raqs Talks: Belly Dance News and Reviews.”  These two ladies were so warm and welcoming, asked some great questions, and we had some laughs. This talk is a little nerdy, a little silly, and a bit uncensored!!

Watch the talk below – or head directly to YouTube to check out this interview

You can find Faizan and Perizaad on the “Raqs Talks” Facebook Page – and I encourage you all to visit their YouTube channel, and subscribe.  They are an emerging new voice in belly dance media and can use our help growing their YouTube channel.

I’m really looking forward to future interviews!
In the meantime, I hope you enjoy our talk.
Dawn Devine ~ Davina

Ps:  The Bellydance Bundle 2020 sale ends on Wed. Oct. 25.  As I write this, that’s TOMORROW!  If you want to enjoy an informative talk with me and some of my heroes like Morocco, Sahra Kent, Terri Allred, Sara  Shrapnell, Katie Sahar, Keti Sharif and many more, follow this link to reserve your copy!