Category: General

Categories
Assiut/Assuit General

Assiut Mask Project: Part 1 – Project Planning

Back in April, I started making cotton masks for my friends and friends here in the Bay Area. At that time, we had no idea how long we would need to wear these trendy fashion accessories.  I wrote a blog post about it and included a link to a pattern and some basic directions. Click on the photo to the right or read the past blog post here

However, as time has passed, it’s become clear that we will be wearing masks for quite some time and perhaps it’s time to glam it up a bit!  So I pulled out two bins of parts and pieces, scraps and off-cuts from past costuming projects.  The result, enough assiut scraps to make quite a few masks!

Making Assiut Masks

I recently shared a photo of a group of masks I made on commission. Several folks in social media noticed this lovely purple assiut mask.

First one, then a couple, and then many people have inquired if I have assiut masks for sale. After much thought, and knowing we will be wearing masks for a long time, I’ve decided to press ahead and take some mask commissions.

Over the next weeks, I’ll be taking you along on the process of planning and organizing a new product.  

Product Ideation

The first step is coming up with the idea. This is the first step for every project I create. This spring, as I watched the unfolding health crisis, I wanted to help in some small way, so I designed and made a mask pattern.  My goal was to made masks for my family and friends. But as I worked, I decided that to share the mask pattern with everyone. If you need to make a mask please give this pattern a try.  You can use as a starting point for creative exploration, to perfect their own cut and fit, and if you are inclined, to use to make your own masks for sale. I released my pattern to the public domain. You can find the pattern and a .pdf with basic directions. They are available for download here.

In a nutshell, here is the process:

  • Identify a Need – In this case, it’s cotton masks for health protection.
  • Design Research – How areother people making this product?
  • Draft a Pattern & make samples to perfect the fit.
  • Make a Test Batch, give to beta testers to get feedback.
  • Refine the Pattern – Use the feedback to perfect your final pattern.

Materials List

Now that I’ve decided to make a large batch of masks for sale, my next step is choosing the materials and supplies for the project. These are not “medical grade” masks, and offer the basic protection that 100% cotton masks can provide.

  • Assiut Cloth – Using Scraps from past costuming and sewing projects
  • Cotton Backing – This layer needs to be 100% cotton in a coordinating color
  • 18 or 20 gauge Wire – This wire will go over the bridge of the nose for a customized fit
  • 1/4″ Elastic – These masks are designed for over the ear wear
  • Coordinating Thread – Check to make sure that all colors are in stock

Inventory & Shopping List

After I figured out what fabric, supplies and notions I need to produce this product, I conduct an inventory.  The mission is to use as many supplies on hand to clear out my studio!  The only things I need are:

  • Cotton Backing – I need to pick up some colors I don’t have on hand and I’m choosing to shop at an independent local store – Eddies Quilting Bee.
  • Thread – I need two colors of thread that I don’t have on hand and I hope Eddies has the colors I need in stock, otherwise, it’s off to Joann’s
  • Wire – I have a lot on hand am not sure if I will go use my stash.  I’m leaving it on the list as a potential need.  If I do need this, I will look for a coupon and pick it up at Michaels.

Other things I need include a box of Thank You cards to use as my primary shipping method.  I can send a mask in a gift card for only 1 first class step with an additional .25 extra ounce stamp.  For the people who wanted to pick up a book at the same time, I already have mailers in my stash.

Calculating Pricing 

Once I have a list of the costs of materials, I work through a sample as a time test.  I use the product log that comes as part of the Studio Log.

I pay attention to how long it takes me to make several masks and I find the average time and mark it down to calculate my labor. Each mask takes me approximately 45 minutes to go from layout and cutting to ready to mail.  I calculated these masks on a $20 an hour rate, making my labor costs $15.

Since I’m using upcycled scraps of assiut, I’m not including that cost in production.  But I am including the cost of all the other basic supplies that I will need to purchase for the studio.

You can see that I’ve included in the “Expenses” section the shipping supplies.  I picked up a pack of 48 Thank You notes to ship individual masks.  And I’ve already got a bunch of stamps but I know I will run out and buy more.  When I am ready to purchase stamps, I’ll be sure to note that in the Product Log.

In the next post, I’ll share the next phases of this project!
Best of luck in all of your design projects,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 1, 2020

Categories
General

Facebook Marketing: Best Practices 2020 – workshop

Hello Gang

Tomorrow is my live talk presented by Bwitchs International Online Bellydance Festival over in their Facebook Group.  I was so pleased to be invited by Leena Viie to participate in this first of its kind event.

My workshop is “Facebook Marketing: Best Practices 2020” and you can catch it live at 9 am PDT or in replay for the following 48 hours.  All you need to do is follow the link and join the group!   The workshop is free to attend! But the greater mission of this event is to raise funds for displaced migrant workers in India who are struggling during these difficult times.  Come join me for the free talk, and if you find value in the content, make a donation to this worthy cause.

Categories
General Publications

Week Two – Bwitchs International Bellydance Festival

Hello Gang!

As I sit down to write this post on June 7, 2020, I’m excited to share the schedule for this week on the Bwitches International Online Bellydance Festival hosted by Leena Viie.

  • To attend these workshops, join the event Facebook Group.
  • Each workshop begins as a Facebook live in the group.
  • Workshops and then available for view for the next 48 hours.

The event is a fundraiser to raise money for migrant workers in India who are being impacted by the global health issues. The rise of Covid 19 has thrown all of our lives into chaos.  But in India, many migrant workers are facing more immediate existential problems.  They are having difficulties returning home, finding shelter to quarantine, or simply finding sources for food and water.

Many of us have found our incomes diminished, but if you have a dime to spare, and find value in these workshops, presentations, and talks, donate what you can.  Every dollar helps.

I’m contributing to this fundraiser with a workshop on Facebook Marketing live on Friday, June 19 at 9:00 am PT and in replay for 48 hours.  Come join the fun, take some informative classes with instructors from around the globe, and contribute to a great cause!

Stay Safe – Stay Healthy
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June 8, 2020


Categories
General

Skirt Transformation – From Straight to Spin-worthy

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then this clip tells a wonderful story.  Shalimar, a San Francisco/Bay Area professional dancer is very pleased with her skirt transformation. In the last post, you could see “The Before” a simple one-slit straight skirt hanging rather limply on a dress form.

However, as you can see in the clip above, Shalimar is a high-energy belly dancer who enjoys large dramatic spin combinations. Her mission was to transform this work-horse straight skirt for those tight hookah bars into one more stage-ready with more fullness and sweep at the hem.

Deconstruction

Before I could proceed, I had to begin by deconstructing the original straight skirt. It was made from a simple rectangle with a fold-over casing at the top for elastic.

The one side seam was stitched about 12″ down leaving a single slit which Shalimar could position on the side, center front, or over one of her thighs.

Once deconstructed, I’m left with a simple rectangle that was Shalimar’s hip measurement across and from hip to floor going down.

Sourcing Materials

The fabric of the original straight skirt is a lycra-poly blend with a foil pattern.  The straight skirt is stunningly reflective and shifts from aqua, blue, and purple as the fabric moves.

I was fortunate to find the coordinating dotted foil fabric in the same colorway at a discount mill-end fabric store.  If you are in the greater San Jose area, be sure to check out Fabrics’R’Us on Berryessa and Lundy in East San Jose.  Unfortunately, like many discount stores, they don’t maintain a website.

When I arrived at the store, my plan was to find something that would coordinate, perhaps some stretchy mesh, or a silver foil, but amazingly, after a full dig through the store, I found the match I needed. You can see in this detailed image on the right how good a match we achieved.

New Design

The after skirt has two slits for dramatic knee lifts, to accentuate level changes and elegant ballet-inspired rond de jambe that allow her legs to sweep through the slits in the skirt.

The new design brief was to keep the materials cost under $50 and to add as much fullness as possible.  I purchased the remaining bolt of blue, which was just under 5 yards long.  With this much fabric, I decided to add 2 full circles as simple godets.

To keep the construction simple,  I installed three half-circle godets at the sides and back.  I cut the fourth half-circle into four smaller pieces and attached them to either side of the front slits.

Find the pattern drafting details in my book “Skirting the Issue and Pants for the Dance” on page 32-33.

I’ve included these two detailed shots of the top of the godet. Because this fabric is very springy due to the high lycra content, I gave each of the godets a rounded top.  To let the fabric fall gracefully, I notched the seam allowance straight up and to the sides.

Full and Fabulous

Once all the godets are installed, I stitched the skirt front panel to the back panel from mid-thigh up to the hip.  The top of the skirt was still a basic tube, so I simply folded over the top to create a self-casing. I used 1″ no-roll elastic to hold the skirt firmly to the hips.

The last sewing I machine-hemmed the skirt going along the hem and up both slit seams.  Because this spandex blend doesn’t fray, I simply turned finger-turned the hem up 1/2″ and machine stitched it in place.

Skip the Pattern – Use these Directions

If you are like the looks of this skirt and want to make one for yourself, you will want to pick up a copy of “Skirting the Issues & Pants for the Dance.”  The instructions for this skirt style are located on pages 32-33.  Visit my Etsy store to pick up a printed copy of the book for $20+ Shipping.  However, if you want to save some cash, and skip the shipping, book is now available as a digital download for $12.50

Over the years, many folks have asked for photos of finished examples of the designs that appear in my books.  The simple truth is that “Skirting the Issues” and “Pants for the Dance” were published long ago. The sample costume pieces made to test the pattern instructions have worn out!

Moving forward, I will tag future costume pieces with the corresponding directions from my publications.  This skirt is fairly easy to measure, mark, cut, and sew.  If you like a swingy full skirt, give this style a try.  Need more convincing?  Here’s another clip of Shalimar dancing in her new two-slit and godet skirt variation. She really makes it fly!

I wish you luck in all of your costuming adventures!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June 2, 2020 

Categories
Costuming DIY General

Back to Making Costumes

Hello Gang!

After spending many weeks working on that new most essential part of our wardrobe, the protective face mask, I’m now back to work on a costuming project.  One of my ongoing customers is the San Francisco/Bay Area professional dancer Shalimar.   Over the past decade, I’ve been so pleased and blessed to have opportunities to work with Shalimar on performance costumes, dressy garments to wear to shows, and more.

Aqua Stripes Bedlah

Last winter, I made this three-piece costume ensemble that I’ve dubbed “Aqua Stripes.”  At that time, Shalimar was dancing in some closely-packed restaurants and hookah bars and required a slim skirt that wouldn’t catch on chairs and table edges.  The skirt also needed to be easily washable.  We selected this polyester/spandex blend with a holographic finish in bright aqua.

With the world in flux, Shalimar’s needs have changed.  Instead of dancing in crowded commercial spaces, she’s now performing on-line in a corner of her home. So instead of a utilitarian straight skirt, she craves a skirt with more dramatic shape and fullness at the hem.

Coordinating vs. Matching

Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough of our primary fabric to cut gussets. I feel so lucky to have sourced some coordinating fabric in the same color-way but with a plain foil surface treatment.

I bought “The last on a bolt” so I am working with what I have available to convert this skirt into something that will spin beautifully.

While we can’t always predict what will happen in the future, we can always remain flexible and open to costume remodeling, upcycling, restyling, and renovation.  Take a peek in your own wardrobe and see if there’s a garment waiting for transformation into something new and fresh to wear to your next digital hafla.

I’m about to dive into the construction now, I’ll be back in a few days with a followup and “after” photos.

Take care and be well,

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
May 22, 2020