Assiut in Film: “The Cat’s Meow”

Fun and flirty, this amusing cozy murder mystery stars Kirsten Dunst as Marion Davies, Cary Elwes as Thomas Ince, and Eddie Izzard as Charlie Chaplin. However, the glimpse of Elinor Glyn played by Joanna Lumley of “Absolutely Fabulous” fame wearing a vintage assiut shawl gave me a thrill.  

Cat’s Meow: Is it True Story?  Is it Fictional?

This is a stylish movie with an enjoyable plot and a beautiful cast in stunning clothes with a black-and-white color scheme.  While it is true, that producer Thomas Ince, died under mysterious circumstances.  The movie presents just one potential scenario of how this death might have happened.

Producer Carol Lewis commented: 

In November of 1924, a mysterious Hollywood death occurred aboard media mogul William Randolph Hearst’s yacht. Among the famous guests that weekend were: film star Charlie Chaplin; starlet Marion Davies (who was also Hearst’s mistress at the time); silent-film producer Thomas H. Ince (known for creating the first Hollywood studio facility and for creating an “assembly line” system for filmmaking); and feared gossip columnist, Louella Parsons.
Source IMDB

Joanna Lumley’s Assiut Shawl

These people spend a lot of time in the dining room dressed in a glamorous and expensive array of black and white clothing. Joanna as Elenor Glyn wears her assiut shawl in the final dining room scene. The mood is somber and reflective as the revelers try to figure out who shot Ince.

This assiut shawl is the perfect design choice, fitting into the color palette and underscoring these Hollywood elites’ wealth, sophistication, and glamour.

In 1924, assiut shawls were all the rage through the well-traveled wealthy set. This was the era of Egyptomania, with King Tut’s tomb only discovered two years before.  Tourists were loading up on these shawls during Nile cruises.

Styling Assiut Shawls

If you plan on wearing your assiut shawl for a fancy dinner, why not use this ensemble as a model?  Note the use of a plain black dress with a deeply cut V-neckline.  This angle echos the diamond patterns, and creates a space to showcase a stack of black and white themed beaded necklaces. The hair is swept up to allow a full view of the shawl.

Wanna See the whole film? You can watch “The Cat’s Meow” on Amazon Prime or via YouTube Premium and other places around the web.

Are you a film buff?  Did you spot the assiut worn by Mia Farrow in “Death on the Nile?”

Now I’m off to record a history class for Patreon!  
Thanks for visiting.  Happy Dance and Costuming,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 2024

ps: Screengrabs can be very tricky.  Here’s a blurry long shot from scene. Notice how opulent and luscious Joanna’s shawl appears at a distance. 

Studio Davina Goblet Skirt

This is the final “Goblet Skirt” from Studio Davina.  I’ve made loads of Goblets since I opened my costuming business in 1986.  Too numerous to count at this point nearly 40 years later!

I named the “Goblet” based on the shape of the tabla or “Goblet Drum.”  My goal was to create a great skirt that showed of the shape of the hips while being full at the hem. This is a beautiful design for “spinners” who want the best of both worlds, showcasing the curves and the moves.

Goblet Skirt in Pink

Shalimar’s Pink Goblet is a prime example of how you can get a very sleek fit when still, but still provide lots of flow during performances.  Check the skirt in motion at this holiday performance at the Bean Scene in Sunnyvale, California.

Making a Goblet Skirt

Are you interested in making a goblet-style skirt?  It is a five-panel construction using a combination of gores and godets.  There are three gored panels in the front and two pieces in the back.  The center back seam allows for an easy customized fit of the derriere.

There is a discussion of gores and godets in my book “Skirting the Issues and Pants for the Dance.”  With a few simple tools and a little know-how, you can quickly make a custom-fitted skirt pattern to your, or your client’s, physique. Available on Amazon or at my Etsy Store.

No Deadline Era

It’s the end of an era.  But the beginning of a new season at Studio Davina.  Moving forward I will focus my costume design and construction in service to more videos, blogs, articles, and books.

When I make a garment or accessory, the key battle cry will be “No Deadlines” to preserve the health and vitality of my hard-working costumer hands.  I haven’t stopped, I’m just turning down the dial to accommodate this season of my life.

Need more info on goblets with gores and godets?  Be sure to sign up for my newsletter to receive notifications when blogs, demos, and workshops debut.

Now off to finish the final goblet,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June, 2024

In 1949, the film “Sampson and Delilah” took the world by storm.  Starring legendary beauty Hedy Lamarr and Hollywood hunk Victor Mature it was an absolute blockbuster!

Costume designer Edith Head used Egyptian Assiut cloth to create this slinky two-piece ensemble. I previously wrote about this costume in the post: An Assiut Gown: Heady Lamarr, Edith Head, and Delilah.

Since then, I’ve found this fantastic film clip of the movie scene from Samson & Delilah where you can see this ensemble in action.

Delilah’s/ Hedy Lamarr’s Assiut Dress: Selling Beauty

Paramount knew it had a hit on its hands when the movie debuted in late 1949. Hedy’s image as the exquisite Delilah sold beauty products from basic soap to glamourous face powder. Paramount Pictures capitalized on their beautiful star, leasing her image out through their marketing and sales departments for global advertising.

It is unlikely that Hedy would have consented willingly to have her image used with sketchy products like diet pills and weight loss supplements. You can spot Hedy wearing the iconic assiut gown on the right of the image bar right below the text, “Listen to Hedy Lamarr!”

When an image is too generic, some companies boldly state the actress’s name, film, and production company. Here Hollywood makeup artist Max Factor has a beauty product launch with the film introducing different shades of “Amber.”

Of course, while beautiful, Hedy is now better known for her biggest role – the inventor of the internet.  You can read more about her contributions and innovations in technology widely around the web. Here’s an article to get you started.

I’m always delighted when I spot this gown in new places.  Thanks for joining me in this delightful journey of this Cloth of Egypt, Assiut aka Al-Tally.

Happy Dance and Costuming,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June, 2024

Two London Fashion Exhibits in 8 Hours?

I wound up in London for a mere 50 hours on a recent work gig.  The team arrived late on Friday and left early on Monday.  I only had eight free hours and four items on my “must-do” list.  The list included some sightseeing, shopping, and not one, but TWO fashion history exhibitions.

Could I do two London fashion exhibits in one day? With careful planning ahead of the trip, I maximized my experience in a minimum amount of time.  Here’s a rundown of how the day went.

“Sargent and Fashion”
Tate Britain, London

My first stop on my day out was at the Tate Britain for “Sargent and Fashion.”  John Singer Sargent redefined society portraiture during the Belle Epoch. He worked in an “alla prima” style, quickly setting paint without the benefit of underpainting, or even sketches on the canvas. Sargent had an uncanny power to capture the essence of an individual in a few bold strokes. This painter was a true creative genius.

In this show, society portraits are paired with the surviving fashion artifacts that have survived the years. Placed side-by-side, you can reach a fuller and richer understanding of how Sargent interpreted these garments in paint on canvas.

The exhibition is sublime – If you can get to it, GO.  If you can’t, but share my twin loves of art and fashion history, get the book. I felt very fortunate this was on while I was there.  What an experience!

Sargent and Fashion @ Tate Britain, London  through July 7, 2024 More Tickets and Info

Boat Ride:
from Battersea to Canary Wharf

After having a snack in the cafe at the Tate Britain, I walked down to the river and caught an Uber Boat for an extended trip on the river.  I paid for an all-day pass that allowed me to go from one end of the purple line at Battersea down to Canary Wharf and back.

Unlike a formal boat tour with a guide, the Uber Boat is like a water bus. It moves quickly from one station to another up and down the river. It was a beautiful method to get from the Tate Britain in Pimlico to the Museum of London, Docklands. More Info on the Uber Boat

“Fashion City”
Museum of London, Docklands

While “Sargent and Fashion” was about aristocracy and haute couture, “Fashion City” explored the history of the Jewish garment workers, seamstresses, and couturiers who lived and worked in London.

This exhibit was set up like a timeline and as you explored each room, you moved forward in time, beginning with late 19th century immigrants, through war rationing, 50’s glamour, and the 60s mods. The exhibits featured a mix of objects, garments, and ephemera including everything from fashion magazines to sewing machines.

The one caveat is that all the garments are behind glass, so my photos showed reflections of lights and other exhibition components. Fortunately, there’s a very well-written and complete exhibition guide for purchase.

Fashion City @ Museum of London, Docklands through July 7, 2024.  More Info and Tickets

Food & Fun

After the fashion exhibitions, it was time for quality shopping time, tea and scones at Marks and Spencer, a visit to a few bookstores, and a walk around the area near my hotel at King’s Cross. Believe me when I say I slept very well that night despite the sudden change in time.

If you want to see more photos of these exhibitions, join me on Patreon for the July 2024 coffee chat.

Happy Dance and Costuming,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June 2024

PS: If you love a good Fashion Exhibit Review – check out “Guo Pei”