Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Event Survival Bag

This coming weekend on Saturday, I will be attending a local event that I had the pleasure of launching many years ago, The Fall Festival hosted by Babdama. This year, I’ll be there vending with my portable book-store.  I’m especially excited to bring along a few pre-release copies of my next book, “Color Theory: With Pencils and Mandalas.”

At my booth, I’ll be joined by my co-authors Alisha Westerfeld and Sara Shrapnell and with luck, we will have a great view of the stage to enjoy the show!  Several of the dancers who have appeared in my books will be taking the stage, and I’m looking forward to seeing some of my friends perform!

But while I love hanging out with friends, I have found that I will enjoy the event so much more if I take along a survival kit.

Event Survival Kit

I keep my event survival kit in what I think of as a medium-sized cosmetic bag. I make sure that it’s bright and easy to spot at the bottom of a dark tote-bag or when it’s tucked in a box under my table.  This bag is the right sized for me to wrangle all the items that I need while I’m sitting in my booth.

And since I love “What’s in my Bag” videos on YouTube, I thought I would take a moment to share what I include in my event survival kit.

 

Purse Companion

At first glance, this looks a lot like the contents of a purse, and in fact, many of these items might seem painfully obvious.  But this bag is separate from my purse for security purposes.  This is the bag that I’m pulling out and might leave on top my table under my book rack for easy access.

But while it’s nice to see a peek inside, I thought I would spread out what I keep in this bag.  Boy, was I shocked with the amount of stuff that I manage to get into the bag – and I still have room to spare.

Personalized Event Essentials

As you peek at my supplies, let me give you a little rundown of what I routinely carry.

  • Top row from the left: Ikea shopping tote for purchases, business postcards, tissues.
  • Middle row from the left: paper fan, pressed powder, black eyeliner, signature lip color, metal tin, healing gel, hand cream, anti-bacterial spray.
  • Bottom row from left: blotting paper, survival rations, mints, and candy.

But what’s in the box?

That tiny little box in the center of the photo above contains a complete hand-sewing kit!  I choose that box because of its cheeky cover.  It perfectly contains the essential items that I would need on hand to sew a broken hook and eye back into place!

What about everything else?

I know you might be thinking, what about aspirin and earplugs?  Because I go to so many music events, I actually carry earplugs in my purse.  However, at dance events, I like to keep my purse secure, so I will grab the things I need. and tuck my purse away.  Though I’ve never had my event survival bag “lifted,” I have a greater sense of security know that this kit will be easy to replace!

And that takes care of one tiny bit of event packing! 
Perhaps I’ll see you there!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Thursday, November 9, 2017.

 

Categories
General

Pattern Paper Hack – Use Holiday Wrap

Holiday Wrap with Grid Lines for use as Pattern Paper | Studio DavinaI just spotted some in my local Target. I spied some at the grocery store. (the grocery store?!?)  What do I look forward to each year? It’s pattern paper season!

Oh, I know what you’re thinking.  That looks a lot like holiday wrapping paper.  And, well, it is.  But it’s also the most affordable and, during the right season, most abundantly available. pattern making paper.

Commercially made pattern paper is thick and has an inch square grid formed with either dots or lines.  It’s QUITE expensive, and often too narrow for my projects.  Check out this version of gridded pattern paper over on Amazon that is $13 for only 5 yards of paper!   That’s  only enough to make a pattern for a single full-length dress or one full skirt. In fashion school, this is the paper we used, and frankly, I really loved the grid – but not the expense.

Holiday Wrapping Paper

Many years ago, I discovered that some holiday wrap manufacturers started printed an 1″ grid on the back of their papers. I stood in the Target, (yes, I clearly remember the spot,) and had one of those light-bulb igniting, eureka moments.  The clouds parted, a beam of light struck my face, right through the roof and ceiling of that Target. I knew my life was forever changed.  I picked up my first roll of pattern paper.  It was 25 yard, 48″ wide and two dollars!  Time has passed and prices have increased but every year I replenish my stock with much more affordable holiday wrapping pattern paper.

Features to look for in Holiday Wrapping Paper

Holiday Wrap with Grid Lines for use as Pattern Paper | Studio Davina

Of course, not all holiday papers are created equal.  Not every style has the grid on the back.  Not all finishes and designs are universally easy to work with.  So here is my list of features that I look for when shopping for the perfect pattern paper.

Grid Marks are Essential – The first feature to look for is the most essential – the grid.  These cost the paper company a bit more to make, so these exist on the more expensive styles of paper. The presence of the magical grid is always listed on the front of the package because it’s a selling feature. Here’s an example of how this kind of paper is described.

Matte Paper – I’ve tried all sorts of gridded paper, but the easiest to work with has a matte surface.  If it’s foiled, metalized, or has a thick surface texture, it’s going to be more difficult to cut. So while it has a gridline, I tend to skip the foiled versions like this.

Holiday Wrap with Grid Lines for use as Pattern Paper | Studio Davina

Solid Color – In my ideal world, the paper would be a solid color or have a simple geometric pattern that won’t show through to the important grid side.  Paper comes in all thicknesses and weights and some patterns show through dramatically.  Picking a solid color eliminates that problem.  This is almost my ideal style of paper.

Wider Width – Holiday wrap comes in a wide variety of widths from 18″ up to 60.”  I like to invest in a paper that’s between 30″ and 48″ wide to accommodate most pattern pieces. If it’s narrower, you can tape pieces together, but it takes time and ya gotta have a lot of tape on hand.

Buying your Holiday Wrapping/Pattern Paper

Of course, for me, this is a two-step process.  I like to stalk my paper at my favorite big-box stores like Target, discount stores like TJ-Max and even at my local pharmacy.  I figure out which brands and colors are available in which stores and I might even take a photo with my phone and make a note with the exact details.

Then I make a mad dash back to the store the day the holiday sales start to potentially snatch it up at 50% or even 70% off depending on the store.  Because I have pre-shopped, I know exactly which store to go to for my best chances at landing a deal.

The candy-printed roll above was my purchase from two years ago, and I have about half a roll left.  In my studio, I like to have one open and on the go, and a second waiting in the wings.  This year, I have to pick up roll for my personal backstock. So I’ll be starting the hunt soon.  Because the discounted end-of season-sales are so unpredictable, I like to have 3-4 locations lined up in advance and plan my shopping accordingly.

Sometimes it’s fun to rummage through old commissions and look at the patterns in my file.  At a glance, I can tell the time-frame of the project based on the holiday paper I used to craft the patterns.

Time to let the pattern paper/holiday wrap shopping process begin!  
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 7, 2017

PS – Like this article?  Pin this photo!

Holiday Wrap with Grid Lines for use as Pattern Paper | Studio Davina

 

Categories
Belly Dance General

Getting your Performance videos onto YouTube

One of the most frustrating features social media today is being unable to share your belly dance performance videos!  With global copyright protections in play, it can make a dancer feel like a third class citizen behind musicians.  As dancers, we use and respond to music, we interpret the music, and share that music with our audience.  George Balanchine once said, “Dance is Music Made Visible,” and yet we are constantly being thwarted when we attempt to upload clips of our performances.

Over the past few months, and a fair bit of research and experimentation, here are some strategies to try when selecting your music to raise the odds of getting your video online.

Choose Copyright Free Music:  This may sound simplistic, but sometimes doing the work ahead of time will save you tons of frustration. YouTube has a very easy to use Music Copyright search that allows video creators to check to see if the music they are hoping to use is available.  In order to use this powerful tool, you will need to log into your YouTube account to access this address:  https://www.youtube.com/music_policies

YouTube's Music Copyright Search Tool

Dance to a live band: When you’re contemplating which performances to book to share on social media, investigate your local live music options. Live music cuts will pass muster on a copyright search. Like this performance clip I posted to Instagram of Bay Area belly dancer Shalimar wearing a costume I made.

Use Classic or Folk Songs: There are many titles that are now “out of print” and looking into some classic recordings might be the way to find a piece that are available for use and distribution online. Many vintage recordings might be available, so pull out your old vinyl and hit the floor.  Here, Bay Area dancer Natika dances to the classic Turkish Rompi-Rompi.

Ask Permission:  There are some wonderfully talented local bands who make and sell their CD’s at events.  A great example is the Sacramento based band Pangia, who made the first cut that Natika performed to in the clip above.

In our current era of video proliferation, it’s important for all visual artists to have the power to share their work on their websites and in social media.  A video is essential to facilitate booking gigs, advertising for students, or simply to share their art.  So before you book your next performance for video, do a little research beforehand to raise your chances of having your clips past social media muster!

Now, I’m off to find some copyright free music to use as the background of a sewing demo.  The struggle is real!

Happy Dancing!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Wednesday, November 8, 2017

 

 

Categories
Costuming DIY General

Sleeve Pattern Adjustment for Full Upper Arms

Just wanted to take a moment to answer a quick question regarding adjusting my belly dance sleeve pattern. “How do you expand the sleeve to make the bicep bigger?”  In my experience, (and after making hundreds of pairs of these sleeves,)  the quickest approach is to use a simple slash-and-spread technique.

Cut out the pattern piece you plan on altering.  I recommend cutting just outside the black pattern line.

Draw a long line from the sleeve point to the middle of the upper edge.  See the top diagram for the position.

Slash or cut along the dotted line in the upper image, to – but not through – the point at the end of the pattern. You want your two pattern pieces to remain stuck together at the point.

Spread the pattern open to the desired width and tape in place on supporting paper.  I always use a scrap of the pattern paper.

How much should you spread?  That really depends on how much your fabric stretches.  My rule of thumb is to take your bicep measurement and subtract an inch.  Spread the sleeve pattern to your your new length, bicep – 1″ and then tape the pieces down.  It should look similar to the lower illustration.  If you can, sew a test sample out of similar fabric.

Original Post about Belly Dance Sleeves.

I suppose I could have redrawn it more formally, I just noticed I didn’t even cross my T’s in the word “pattern.”  If learning about fitting commercial patterns is on your agenda, I’m going to recommend investing in a good fitting book.  There are many on the market today, but there are two that I have found useful to have in my sewing reference library.

Reference Books on Pattern Adjustments

Pattern Fitting by Nancy Zieman – Nancy Zieman has an entire line of sewing books, and I find this one pretty stinking good!  Her methods are sound and her technique really works.  She presents a way of thinking and problem solving that will really help you make your garments fit beautifully.    It’s available as a book and in Kindle form.

Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina – Another iconic author in the sewing world, Sandra Betzina, has a slightly different approach to the same material.  I really enjoy her writing voice, and her method is easy to understand and really works.   Her title is available in hardcover and paperback.

 

These two books are my favorites, and they are both equally good. That said, you don’t need both!  You only need one fitting reference book to have on hand so pick the one that is most appealing to you. While I included links above for your convenience, I always recommend shopping for sewing reference books at your favorite used bookstore. These have been on the market a long time and so finding them second hand is good for both the environment and your pocketbook!

Now I want to spend the rest of the day flipping through my sewing books.  But no – time to hit the sewing machine and make some costumes!

Have a great day!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 6, 2017

Categories
General

Easy and Affordable Thread Storage

Three Drawer Thread Storage - far right | Studio Davina

Sewing room storage is an endless struggle for me and for most of my crafting, sewing, creating friends. Many years ago, I decided to “control” the amount of thread I own by keeping my ENTIRE collection in one small three-drawer organizer. I purchased a super-affordable three drawer unit at Target so many years ago, the white has turned yellow!   You can see it in this photo on the right, watched over by a camel and supporting my slightly out of control baggy collection.

The Color Wheel is my Guide

Warm and Cool Colors | Studio Davina

I divide my thread into three categories based on color.  I have one drawer for warm, one drawer for cool and the third for neutral.  Dividing the drawers up in this manner means that I can quickly grab a color to sew with. Since I work primarily on commission on garments, I include the cost of thread as part of a fixed studio fee. My customers get to choose if they want to keep the thread or leave it behind.  I always encourage my clients to take the thread with them for future alterations, repairs, and adjustments.

A Peek Inside my Thread Drawers

I roughly use this division to help guide my storage choices, though there is some “play” to the rules.  For instance, all the “greens” go in the cool drawer, even the ones with more yellow.  I also divide between purples (cool) and magenta tones (warm.)   And sometimes, I wind up with colors jumping into the wrong drawer like that rogue pink among the blues and greens.  Although that is a more “cool” toned pink, I generally look for pink in the warm drawer.

"Warm" thread drawer | Studio Davina "Cool" Thread Drawer | Studio Davina "Neutrals" Thread Drawer | Studio Davina

Theater Trick – Use Grey

One of the tricks I picked up during my years at the La Jolla Playhouse was the grey thread trick.  If I don’t have the perfect color, I match the value of the cloth with a shade of grey.  While I wouldn’t use this trick for top-stitching, I’ve machine sewn hundreds of garments with the appropriate shade of grey, and then only purchased the smallest spool of the closest coordinating color for any visible finishing work. This saves me a lot of time because I keep a complete complement of full grey bobbins beside my machine and ready to sew at a moment’s notice.

How do you store your thread?  I’m host to a FaceBook sewing group called “Studio Davina: Behind the Scenes.”  Come join us there for our ongoing conversations about sewing, patternmaking, costuming, and supply storage.

And now, I’m going to take a moment and admire my clean drawers.  As you can see in the photo at the beginning of this blog, I just chuck the thread in.  Every year I pull them out and sort them out.  Of the course of time and working on costumes, they will eventually be a mess again, but today they are looking beautiful!

Happy Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 5, 2017

PS. Thank you for sharing this on Pinterest!