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General

Embellished Bras – Birthday Sale 2015

Hello Gang!

September is my birthday month and to celebrate, I’ve put my best selling book, Embellished Bras on sale over on my Etsy store.  Through September 31, 2015, this book is on sale for the lowest price ever – only $15 + shipping.  I’m so proud of this book and it continues to be my best selling publication.  This is, quite literally, a “workshop in a book.”  These are the techniques that I present to students during bra making classes and workshops. There are many-many ways to make a bra.  In this book, I present a simple draping technique for making a pattern for the bra cups. Once you have your pattern made, follow the step-by-step directions for sewing the fabric to the bra.  The last half of the book is filled with ideas, materials, and supplies for embellishing your bra.  If you already make dance bras, this book will offer you new insights, tips, tools, and techniques for taking your bra-making to the next level.

All of my in-print titles are available on Etsy, so if you are looking for a different title, stop by the store and check it out. If you are a regular Etsy shopper, favorite the store and keep in touch for new products and book releases!

Thanks for joining me in my birthday celebration!
~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina

Embellished Bras – On Sale for $15 + Shipping
On Davina’s Etsy Store through Sept. 30, 2015.

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PS: I’ve been adding a few assiut accessory pieces made from scraps left over from the production of The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut.  If you are in the market for a hair flower, headband, or other accessory piece made from assiut, be sure to keep an eye out.  All through the month of October, we will be finishing up new pieces!  One might be right for you!   ~ Happy Costuming ~ Davina

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Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Byzantium Collection

Hiya-Chaiya wearing a blue mirror and coin Byzantium bra by DavinaThis weekend I went to an event, a hafla hosted by Adira, of Adira Dance and Costume in Willow Glen, CA.  Once a month throughout the summer, Adira transformer her parking lot into a performance space, and invites dancers from all across Northern California to come and dance.  This Saturday, it was my turn, and I took the stage as one half of a duet called “Swirl,” the name I use for all of my group dancing experiences.  Zemira, aka Alisha Westerfeld, my co-author and photographer on Cloth of Egypt.

Well, lo-and-behold, I spied one of my costume pieces!  Alisha got a snap of dancer Hiya-Chaiya, performing with the group House of Inanna.  This bra was part of the Byzantium line of ready-to-wear bra and belts that I started in 2001. I don’t even know how many of these I made!  But here are a few of my favorite pictures of Byzantium bras.

Indian Ribbon, copper coins, and chainette fringe Byzantium bra.Before Istanbul was Constantinople, it was called Byzantium, and I took this name for this collection of easy-to-wear costumes.  The style is tribal fusion, a multicultural blend of textiles, coins, and jewelry components from along the caravan routes of the spice routes and along the silk road of Asia and North Africa.  Ribbons from India, jewelry from Morocco, Coins from Iran, all came together to form these costumes.  My personal mission was to make garments that would hold up to the rigorous life of dancing outdoors at festivals, historic events, on the beaches and around the campfires.  They were sturdy, made from materials that could be hand washed and laid out to dry, ready for the next performance.

Molly and Zemira wearing Byzantium bras designed by DavinaI adored dancing at Renaissance festivals and other living history presentations. At a festival, you might have to wear your costume for 4, 6 or even 8 hours in a row, longer than you would wear a spangled glam costume for a restaurant.  They need to be flexible, and have give.  And, they need to be made from period inspired materials.

Of course, a modern commercial bra isn’t historical by ANY stretch of the imagination, so covering it up with embellishments, and wearing it under a dress, vest, or coat, a period impression is created, without sacrificing modern comfort.  Like these two lovelies on the left, Mollie and Alisha wearing Byzantium bras paired with wash-and-wear cotton tunics.  Of course, a few were so lusciously embellished that they were stage-worthy like the costume below, worn by San Francisco/Bay Area pro dancer Setareh.

Thanks for joining me on this little blast from the past!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
August 17, 2015

Setareh in pink Byzantium - Photo by Carl Sermon

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY Design General

Costuming Tip: When in doubt – don’t wear black!

Once upon a time, I was invited to dance in a show at a venue I’ve never been to before.  I figured, I’ll wear something simple and easy.  I didn’t stop to think about the potential environment, and choose a costume that was completely black to make some tribal jewelry really pop.  Well – I arrived to discover venue featured a tiny black-box style theater with minimal golden top light and one big spot. Then I remembered the old axiom of the entertainment world. When in doubt about the venue, don’t wear black!  While restaurants are filled with different colors, textures, if you’re dancing in a theatrical environment, the odds of dancing on a black stage with black curtains is very high. Many small theaters use deep flat black for its neutral, non-distracting environment that is affordable to keep up.   I did the show, and got some great photos of myself, if I like floating head shots.  Perhaps my life lesson remembered will help you choose your costumes with better results!

Happy Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Aug. 7, 2015

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Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Need An Instant Costume? Just Add Assiut!

Need An Instant Costume?  Just Add AssiutI’m please to announce that Andelee, over on the  website has just published my article “Need an Instant Costume?  Just Add Assiut!”  featuring model Nicole Simone shot by photog Alisha Westerfeld.  The article is about styling an assiut robe with a few tips that apply to dancers of any size, from size 2 to 22.

Andelee’s mission is to gather together informative articles, tips, hints and advice for us plus size belly dance.  When Alisha and I were shooting photos for the book The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut there were many photos that we would have loved to use, but simply ran out of space.  Why not take some of these wonderful photos and share them with the world and create some great content for a sister website!

Award winning plus-sized model, Nicole Simone who you can follow on Instagram here, or visit on FaceBook here, is one of the most beautiful women I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with.  Her satiny skin, clear blue eyes, wicked curves, and mega-watt star power on stage, make her a force to be reckoned with!

And guess what?  If you go and check out this article, you get to see some of Alisha’s photos in COLOR!  Cloth of Egypt was published in black and white because so much of the assiut was black and white to begin with, and b/w printing saves the reader money.  I promise that in the fullness of time, we will release another full-color book.

But in the meantime, enjoy!
Yours in Dance And Costuming,
~ Davina

July 14, 2015

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Hemming Assiut Garments by Machine

Assiut-Hem-TitleI enjoy working with modern assiut and I often use my sewing machine for seams and hems. Many dancers like to open the side seams of their assiut garments from hem to hip for maximum freedom of movement. Most ready-made assiut robes, however, arrive stitched closed to the hem. Although assiut doesn’t fray, a clean smooth well stitched hem will hang and move better.  Here are my top tips for the achieving the best machine hemming results.

 1 – Carefully open unwanted seams  Assiut has lots of holes, and it’s easy to catch them with the tip of your seam ripper, so be extremely careful when picking open seams.  I like to use a good strong light source and go very slow while taking the existing seams apart.
My favorite two seam rippers:
Classic style with ergo handle: http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Ergonomic-Design-Large-Ripper/dp/B003VWL0YO
Super-sharp scalpel style: http://www.amazon.com/Crafters-Companion-Ultra-Seam-Ripper/dp/B0006V1TBM

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2 – Use chalk to draw your new hem line – Although your robe might have been previously sewn, you might choose to put your new hem in a slightly different line.  To achieve a clean new hemline, use a ruler and either a marking pencil, chalk, or wheel to draw your new fold line.
I keep all three of these marking tools in my kit, and pick the best one for the job.
Chalk Wheel – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-662-Chalk-Wheel-Kit/dp/B0081GYA8I/ 
Tailor’s Chalk – http://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Tailors-Assorted-Colors-Quilting/dp/B00XI64MFC
Marking Pencil – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-667-Tailors-Marking-Set/dp/B0052WSQHK

Assiut-Hem-Pressing3 – Use your iron – Using your chalk line as a guide, fold and press your new hem in to place.  If there is enough seam allowance, as there was on this blue robe, I like to fold the raw edge under during the pressing process.  If the seam allowance is too narrow, don’t worry about it.  Assiut won’t unravel, so as long as you have more than 1/8” your new hem will hold up. Tip: Since assiut is made from cotton, it will press very well when using seam – but watch out – the metal stitches can get very hot – so let it cool down before touching it.
Black & Decker Steam Iron – http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-D2030-Auto-Off-Advantage/dp/B0006ZUHR0
Sunbeam – http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-1500-Watt-Anti-Drip-Non-Stick-GCSBCS-200-000/dp/B00JPCWDS6

Assiut-Hem-Pinned4 – Pin parallel to the hem – After your fabric has cooled off pin your new hem into place. I like to  position my pins parallel to the hem with the tips of the pins pointed to the left.  This will hold the hem in place during the sewing process and will allow you to easily pull the pins out as you sew.  Avoid placing your pins perpendicular to the hem, as that can cause twisting as you remove them, or risk breaking the needle if you attempt to sew over the pins.
Pins – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-4-Inch-Quilting-Quilters-500-Pack/dp/B001UAM3UY/

5 – Use a sharp fairly thick sewing needle – When working with assiut, I always begin a new garment project with a fresh sewing machine needle. When working with modern assiut, I like to use a universal needle in a size 14, so the needle will have enough strength and a sharp enough tip to penetrate the metal stitches.
TIP: ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE EYE GEAR WHEN SEWING MODERN ASSIUT!  Although a sharp needle will penetrate the stitches, needles do get dull, and as soon as it’s dull, it can snap when it hits the metal.  I wear always glasses when sewing to protect my eyes from broken needles and shards of metal.
Sewing Machine Needles – http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Machine-Needles-Size-14-Pkg/dp/B000YZ7JAK
Protective Eye Gear – http://www.amazon.com/Radians-Remington-Protective-Eyewear-Outdoor/dp/B00KHOFWTI
Assiut-Hem-Machine-sewing6 – Sew slowly – Always go nice and slow so you can control the shape of the seam and pull your pins out as you sew. To remove your pins easily, simply use your thumb to capture the heads of the pin and as the machine pulls the fabric through, your thumb will pull the pin out of the cloth. This technique works best when using big-headed pins with brightly colored heads.
My favorite sewing machine – http://www.bernina.com/en-US/Products-US/BERNINA-products/Sewing-Quilting-and-Embroidery/BERNINA-Classic-Series/BERNINA-1008

 You can do it!  Good Luck!!!   ~ Davina
July 6, 2015

BE CAREFUL – SEW SLOWLY – WEAR EYE PROTECTION