Categories
Design General

Essential Pattern Making Tools

Essential Pattern Making Tools

This fall I have taken in two new apprentices, Poppy and Misia. They are learning sewing, pattern making and design techniques.  One stitch at a time we are working on collaborative pieces, that employ the subtle nuances of building a well crafted belly dance costume.   They are learning that a big component of the design process is making custom patterns. Many sewers treat commercial patterns as if they are the word of law, rarely deviating from the way they are drawn. Pattern making allows a designer to work from an existing pattern, modify a sloper or draft something completely new. There are relatively few things that you need to get started pattern making.  Below are the essential tools that you need to make your own patterns.   Along with a few good reference books, and a class to get your started on the basics, pattern making is a very potent tool in the  costume designer arsenal.

 

Essential Pattern Making Tools
Essential Pattern Making Tools by davinadevine on Polyvore

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Design General Publications

The Cloth of Egypt – The Storyboard

Story Boarding The Cloth of Egypt

I’m a one woman shop and I wear a lot of hats.  One of my least favorite hats to wear, (aside from bookkeeper, which just sucks) is that of book layout and production artist.  I know, I could hire someone to do this, but since I’ve spent all my money buying assiut , vintage ephemera like photographs and maps, and all the supplies to make more than a dozen costumes, I’m pretty tapped out.  What this means is that I will have to do all my own book production!  If that sounds like complaining, it’s not, it’s just the name of the game when it comes to self publishing.

Before I start laying out the material for the book using inDesign, I go old school and storyboard the entire project.  My approach is to work in “spreads” two pages at a time.  To make this go quickly, I’ve devised a two-page template that I use to sketch and notate the details of each spread.  I put these into a binder where I can effortlessly flip through the various pages and get a strong sense of what the final document will look like.  Oh yes, and I always always use pencil.  Once I have finished the entire book mock-up, I roll up my sleeves, grab a cup of coffee and fire up inDesign.   Are you an self-published author?   Check out my templates below.

Categories
Assiut/Assuit General

Vintage Modern Assiut Head Drapes – Photo Creation Tutorial

Vintage Modern Assiut Head Drapes

Photo Creation Tutorial

I’ve been spending practically all of my waking hours working on Cloth of Egypt.    Recently, I got together with local belly dancer/model Nicole Simone for a series of head shots.  My team spent a long hard day working to craft a series of photos for CoE.   For this shoot, I induced local Bay Area hair stylist, braiding artist and belly dancer Misia Rockte to do hair.  Nicole Simone did her own makeup, creating a polished belly dance performance face.  We were joined by Scheherazade, who helped style and keep watched for the details like flipping jewelry, shiny noses, issues that I (behind the camera) wouldn’t necessarily catch.

In about four hours, we shot just under 500 images, and had six costume changes.  Because we were shooting from the mid-torso up, Nicole didn’t have to change of all her clothes with each new look.  With Misia watching the hair, and Scheherazade watching costume and makeup, we set up in front of my front door with two diffused lights to my right (you can see the hot-spot on Nicole’s shoulder.)

What equipment did we use? My camera is an inexpensive Cannon Power Shot and the lights are a pair that came with a table-top studio kit purchased for a song on eBay years ago.  These are a pair of 11″ lamps with a diffuser covers and are still available on the manufacturer’s website. www.obnphoto.com  We positioned them one high and one straight towards Nicole’s face. For a backdrop, we used my front door, which is conveniently painted “I rent an apartment” white.

Photo One: Raw Image

Below is Nicole’s raw image.  My goal at this point is to create a side profile shot in the style popular at the turn of the last century.  We took about 12 shots in the series, and this is the one that I liked the best.  You can see that the image is a bit too dark on the left.  Just turning it to black and white just wouldn’t produce the best results.

Photo Two: Brightness & Contrast

My first goal is to adjust the brightness and contrast.  Photoshop is a big, beastly program, but I find myself using the brightness and contrast sliders on virtually every photo I take these days!   I boost brightness by quite a bit to bring the door to white.  I also boosted the contrast to emphasize the silver pattern in the assiut.

Photo Three: Skin Perfection

Nicole Simone is a lovely woman, but there’s always room for a bit of clean up.  I use the healing tools to clean up some skin imperfections, a few of the moles on her chest and some other details.   During this phase I also used the dodge tool to brighten up her face and then brightened up her eyes just a little bit more.   I used the burn tool to darken her lips and eyelashes.  Good makeup and bright lighting, and a model with gorgeous skin reduces the amount of “digital botox” needed.

Photo Four: Black & White with Tint

To enhance the vintage quality of the image, I convert using the black & white controls.   Using the b&w control, rather than grayscale, allows you to control the color channels, so I reduced the red channel to make Nicole’s skin tone look more even in the antiqued image.  I also upped the blue to darken the the deeper tones of the feathers and flowers.

Photo Five: Final Changes

I pulled out an actual vintage cabinet card from my collection and really took a good hard look at it.  I realized that my sepia was too pinkish.  So I played with the b&w sliders to find a more golden tone.  Then I clone stamped the peep hole out of the image.  I went back in with the burn tool and strategically darkened the shadows, especially in the hair flowers.  I used the dodge tool to soften the shadow on her cheek from the dangle of fringe.

I then called it DONE!  I placed it in a frame and added some market-y text to it and then uploaded it to Pinterest.

Categories
Belly Dance General Makeup and Appearance

Packing For Airline Travel

Packing for Airline Travel

One of the best ways to keep your skin looking its best when on the road or in the air is to pack a kit of moisturizing essentials.  I like to keep a kit packed and ready in an approved zip-lock baggie in my dance kit.  Then, when the next event is around the corner, I can grab and go!     Even if I’m not traveling far, I keep these items stashed in my kit, because really, should a girl ever be with out some lip balm and sunglasses?

Arline Survival Kit
Arline Survival Kit by davinadevine featuring round cat eye sunglasses
Categories
Assiut/Assuit General

All About Assiut – Lecture Notes

All About Assiut – Lecture Notes – September 2012

Dawn Devine - Presenting Vintage Assiut at the de Young Museum
Dawn Devine ~ Davina - Presenting Vintage Assiut at the de Young Museum - Photo by Alisha Westerfeld

Over the past year, I’ve been presenting an hour-long lecture entitled “All About Assiut.”  Sometimes it’s a slide presentation and at other times, it’s more of a hand’s on informal talk.  As I’ve been working on my book, the handout has evolved as well, with interesting historical images, a bullet list of facts, and a selection of quotes from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

As of today, October 1, I’ve got 14 costumes to complete and photograph before my book is finished.   I’m anticipating a mid-winter release – if you join my mailing list, you will get the first notification of the book’s availability.

In the meantime – click on the link below and enjoy my handout!

~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina

All About Assiut - Lecture Notes
All About Assiut - Lecture Notes - Sept. 30, 2012 - .pdf