One of my favorite design tools is the mood board or inspiration board. I routinely build collages that inform, inspire and delight the eye and fuel my own creative process. Recently, I went over to the new website, Pinterest and began to explore. What I have found, to my delight, is that it becomes a great digital mood board. As I surf the web, I simply hit a little button on my browser and “pin it”, select a photo from the page I’m looking at and it gets uploaded to one of Pinterest boards. I can quickly collect visual information from dozens of sources, edit and arrange it into logical groupings, annotate the uploads and share them with my friends. You can even upload your own images. I recently started to collect images of Assiut/Assuit as I’ve been working on my new book.
I’m an avid magazine reader, and I’ve noticed that magazine editors, such as Nina Garcia and fashion bloggers such as Erica over at “PS I Made This,” have started adding some really well edited and useful content. I’ve cruised this site and have found people planning weddings, decorating their homes or simply day dreaming about their dream wardrobe. It’s fun, inspirational and easy to use. Check it out!
Apparently, I’m obsessed with assiut/assuit cloth. Which is probably good, since I’m working on a book about this magical fabric. However, several folks have sent me email queries along the lines of:
Hey Dawn, I’ve heard assiut/assuit referred to as “liquid silver” but when I see assiut/assuit it looks quite stiff, can you explain?
Modern assiut/assuit can be quite stiff, and the patterns are often widely spaced upon the mesh ground cloth. The modern fabric is made almost exclusively from short-staple cotton on modern machines which create smaller holes. The stitches are fewer and further apart, giving this cloth a primarily black appearance.
In contrast, vintage assiut/assuit has a higher metal content and was made with finer linen fibers in a more open, looser mesh. This allows the fabric to drape and move in a more supple way. When this fabric is completely coated with individual metal stitches, it drapes heavily, conforming to the shape of the body beneath it, but maintaining the sheen and luster of metal. The weight of the pounded metal in the cloth, gives the fabric a unique character during movement, that is better shown then described. So below, I’ve assembled three videos, one modern and two that date to the 50’s, that show the unique movement and drape of heavily embroidered vintage assiut/assuit.
Transforming a Vintage Assiut/Assuit Dress
Step One – “Before Video”
As I work on projects for my upcoming book, All About Assiut/Assuit, I’m trying to catch some photos and videos of me wearing costumes made from this fabric. In December, I had the opportunity to wear a dingy and sadly in need of repair assiut dress with lots of coins. The dress is a bit of a mess. The coins, originally gold toned, have corroded in places to black, copper, dull silver and even green. Yuck! In addition, this dress had missing coins, broken crocheted threads, tears in the mesh and was – to sum it up – a hot mess. Here I am, dancing in the “before” version of this dress before it hits the workbench and I take the shears to it for its transformation.
There are many costuming options for a dancer to choose from. From the glamour of beads and sequins to the earthiness of tribal and folkloric costumes, the options can be overwhelming. Many dancers start by selecting a specific feature. Color is one of the most obvious first choices, but there is a rainbow of colors to choose from. Where does one begin? White has been popular over the last few years and purple is always a winner. Green, the color of money, could send the job opportunities through the roof. Pastels, neons and jewel tones are all available to tempt a dancer’s eye. But without a doubt, the most versatile color of all is red.
Red? Not black, that most basic and “safe” of colors? Not blue in shades from sky to cobalt? But red! For the American dancer a red costume is a foundation for an entire year’s worth of specialty and theme costumes. In February, paired with pink accessories and heart motifs, the red bra and belt set is sure to set hearts afire at those special Valentine’s dinner shows.
In May, for Memorial Day, a red costume can symbolize the loss of loved ones on the field of battle. Simply accessorize with gold, alluding to the medals worn by our country’s heroes.
In June, the red costume can be the perfect color to brighten dad’s spirits on Father’s Day. While in July, a white skirt and long blue gloves can turn the red costume in to the perfect patriotic outfit to celebrate the Fourth of July. In September, mix up the white and blue accessories for those Labor Day events.
Add a pair of saucy little devil’s horns and a spike tail and become a dancing devil for Halloween. Or you can use add a black cape and a pair of fangs and become the ultimate vampy vamp. In November, you can pair a red costume with orange, rust and yellow accent pieces to capture the colors of turning leaves for Thanksgiving celebrations. And for those December holiday shows, a green skirt and gold accents will transform a red costume into the perfect ensemble for Christmas shows.
Specialty shows, parades and theme events will always be a little more fun if you have a costume that fits the bill. Why not invest in a red dress or bra and belt set that can be reinvented for each major holiday with accessories and accents that fit the bill? Every dancer needs a red costumes, have you made yours?
Note: This is a republishing of an article that appeared on the Costumer’s Notes eZine many years ago. Recently, I was chatting with Lynette over at Gilded Serpent eZine and she suggested that I use the word American in the title – because the article is really targeted at dancers in the US, and I agreed. Thank you to Setareh for allowing me to share this lovely action photo. The rest of the article is the same, and it’s as true today as it was then! Happy Holidays! ~ Davina ~ Dawn Devine
I adore watching old videos of classic Egyptian dancers. The costuming is so inspirational, and it makes me want to hit the drawing board to create unique and retro designs. Recently, I decided to hunt down a relatively unknown, but extremely accomplished dancer, Hermeen.
Information about her is quite slim. According to most bios, she was born in Alexandria, Egypt, of Armenian descent. Hermeen became a professional dancer and appeared in at least 24 movies. Sometimes she was just a dancer, other times she had small acting rolls. She later married her frequent co-star Egyptian actor Shokry Sarhan. Other than these few facts, there has been little written about Hermeen.
What we can tell from surviving video clips is that she was an accomplished and versatile dancer. In the following clips, you will see her dance in a variety of styles including a fantastic Spanish dance with castanets ablaze! There are also examples of her dancing with a cane, and in one scene we catch a glimpse of her flexibility with a few seconds of floor work. Her spins are to die for, she has an amazing range of motion in her hips, and her connection with the music is undeniable.
Check out this collection of her videos on YouTube.