Bra-LaPalooza
Week One:
Red 5-Piece
Assiut Ensemble

First up on the docket for Bra-LaPalooza is a 5-piece red assiut ensemble for San Francisco/Bay Area belly dancer Adriana. This head-to-toe look includes an assiut cropped top, assiut panel skirt, skirt topper, and a bra and belt set.

Re-Using a Beloved Assiut Robe

Adriana brought a much-loved open robe in need of a glow-up and a bra to use as a base. The original robe was purchased many years ago from Turquoise International.  But after hundreds of performances, it was time for this robe to evolve into a new stage of life as part of a full belly dance ensemble.

To make a new bedlah set, Adriana also sourced an Auden Sublime Bra from Target. This is a well-made bra with all the features I require to use as a belly dance costume piece. The Auden Sublime has firm foam cups with thick underwires. It’s my first time using it, I’ll report back on my full opinions when I’ve finished the transformation from lingerie to costume piece.

Assiut Shawl & Beaded Scarf

Our plan is to cut the robe into two pieces, creating a tie-top and a panel skirt. In order to make a coordinating bra and belt set, we needed to pick up a few more assiut pieces. While I had some red scraps, it was simply not enough to cover a large bra base and belt. So I went to Etsy to source materials and shopped from these three quality vendors.

• Craft World By Mel
• Egypt Finds
• Desiree’s Treasures

Sourcing Materials and Supplies

In the community where I reside, many fabric stores have closed up shops. We’re down to only a few Jo-Ann fabrics, and one mill-end dead stock shop. Perhaps I would also include Michaels and Walmart. In order to purchase specialty fabrics and embellishments, I have to go to the internet.

Materials & Supplies list

Wanna spend your time making, rather than researching sources for materials and supplies?  Here’s what I’m using in this red project:

• Red 100% Cotton
• Red Sequin Table Cloth
• Quilt Binding
• Buckram
• Rhinestone Chain
• 1000 Assorted Sew On Rhinestone AB
• Gros-Grain Ribbon 50 yard spools
• Bulk Black Elastic 22 yards
• #3 Steel Safety Pins 
• Long Quilting Pins
• Thread Snips
• 10″ Kai Sewing Shears
• Quilting Ruler
• Pattern Making Curve

Thank you for using these affiliate links. These links don’t add to your expense but help support my website. I appreciate your support of my ongoing work.

Now – I’m off to the sewing room to make some more progress on this red costume!
More photos and details of this assiut costume next week.
Until then, dance well, be well,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
May 5, 2022

Bonus Tip from Instagram

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A post shared by Belly Dance Costume Design & Construction (@davinadevine)

Hello Gang!  Spring is here and it’s time to make some belly dance costumes!

Welcome to my annual festival of costume making called “Bra-LaPalooza.” Ever since 2013, I’ve used that name for my annual spring costume build session.  This year, as I work on the next book, “Belly Dance Costume in Detail” using assiut, I’m sharing my festival of costuming with all of you!

Bra-LaPalooza: An Origin Story

The video above is the story of how my little belly dance costuming festival of one originally got its name. It was 2013 and we were at Cairo Caravan on the Queen Mary in Longbeach California.  I was working on a long-distance collaboration, vending in the dealer’s room, and planning a hit-and-run photoshoot somewhere on the ship.

Over the next two months, I’ll be sharing some of best tips for making belly dance bras.  I have 30 costumes planned for the upcoming book.  Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more Bra-LaPalooza videos.

I hope you enjoy this little storytime adventure!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
May 2, 2022

PS:  Please click through and give my vid a thumbs up if you have a moment.  That will help me with my goal of reaching 1000 subscribers this year!

Shalimar’s Rhinestone Costume

One of my long-time costuming clients, the glamorous and elegant Shalimar, has recently begun building her social media presence. She’s started a new website and brand new YouTube Channel. The videos on her new YouTube channel give me a wonderful opportunity to share some of my work in motion. 

I was thrilled to spot this video above of Shalimar performing in one of my favorite costume designs. This holiday show took place at the Bean Scene, my top pick for a local coffee shop in Sunnyvale, Ca. 

Pink: Shalimar’s Signature Color

Shalimar looks absolutely fabulous in bright pink. In 2017, she was looking to add to her wardrobe. Her design brief stipulated a bright and dynamic pink two-piece bedlah set. Shalimar was regularly performing in dark nightclubs, hookah bars, and restaurants. In these kinds of dim environments, a highly reflective costume is essential for visibility.

Studio Davina: Line and Dot Design Formula

For this bedlah set, I used my “Dot and Squiggle” formula. We used an assortment of cheap and cheerful acrylic sew-on gems like these paired with rhinestone chain. For the base fabric, we choose a comfortable, high-spandex, and highly reflective fabric with tiny dots called “Disco” in pink.  This material is still available from a wide variety of suppliers including Amazon.com.

If you use the affiliate links to amazon.com you help support this blog. It doesn’t add anything to your purchase price, but we make a small commission that helps pay for the upkeep and maintenance of our website. Thank you, ~ Dawn

One Bedlah Set – Myriad Skirt Options

For working dancers, a two-piece bra and belt set allows for maximum versatility. Shalimar wanted a minimum of three skirts to swap in and out to change the look. We designed a matching pink goblet skirt made from the “Disco” fabric.

There was already a two-tiered spandex and chiffon skirt in her wardrobe. Clear rhinestones “read as white” by viewers. This “extended mini” white skirt is a workhorse in Shalimar’s wardrobe.  The white skirt gives this pink bedlah set a completely different vibe.

Gloves and Gauntlets

To compliment her dance, and draw attention to her graceful arms, I created a pair of sleek sleeves using my signature Glove and Gauntlet. Made to measure matching accessories provide a fully custom look with elegant polish. The pattern is available for digital download from my Etsy store.

I’ve really enjoyed sharing this blast from the past.
Take care and be well in all that you do!

Dawn Devine ~ Davina
April 22, 2022

PS: Enjoy this snippet of dance I posted on Instagram of Shalimar wearing the pink and white combo.

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ALEXANDRIA:
Cold Shoulder Mesh Middle Dance Unitard

It’s spring of 2022, and I find myself spring cleaning my dance wardrobe. As I pulled out all the bits and pieces, I came to an amazing realization. My most-worn garment is something ready-made that I purchased more than a decade ago!

In this photo from 2010, I am wearing my beloved Alexandria cold shoulder unitard. This photo was taken at the Bean Scene in Sunnyvale where I was dancing as a last-minute substitute to fill a hole in the dance line-up. At the time, I was teaching on Thursday nights right next door at Lunatic Fringe.

When asked to dance, I simply pulled out my “teaching” outfit. Featuring the key ingredient, my essential Alexandria Unitard from Dahlal International. On that day, I paired it with a lovely hip wrap I had purchased from Sheherezade Imports at Rakkasah West.  The shoes are Capezio dance sneakers from Discount Dance Supply.

Support Your Favorite Dance Dealers

Even though I’m a costume maker and an author of DIY books, I support my favorite belly dance dealers!  Over the course of the past year, I’ve been purchasing materials and supplies for the next book, “Belly Dance Costuming in Detail with Assiut.”  Folks have asked me, where are you purchasing your assiut pieces?

The truth is everywhere I can find them, starting with my favorite dance dealers. In the past I have purchased shawls from Bellydance.com, Dahlal International, Scheherezade Imports, and a while back, from Turquoise International.  Assiut (assuit or tulle bi telli) is being widely produced in Upper Egypt.  Modern shawls, sashes, scarves, robes, and kaftans for exported to specialty dealers around the globe.

Buying vs. Making Belly Dance Costume Pieces

Even as an experienced maker of costumes, there are some items that are just more practical to buy. Making this unitard would have cost way more than the $50 or so dollars. Factoring in the materials, supplies, and time to make this garment, the price was a good deal then. In the intervening years, it’s hardly gone up in price, but I’m pleased to spot that it’s available up to a 3X.

So if you’re a plus-sized dancing babe like me, this might be a good choice for your wardrobe too.   Don’t like halters?  Sleeved and tank versions are available too if a halter is not to your taste. With this base layer in place, I have the freedom to focus on making bedlah sets.

Amazing Price Per Wearing

As a designer, my goal is to maximize my productivity.  Buying “belly dance basics” from reputable dealers who I know and trust helps me save time, and ultimately, money.  When I take the price, now $54, and divide it by the number of wearings, the price is just pennies per performance.

I’m looking forward to designing a new assiut bedlah set for myself to wear with this unitard. Watch for its appearance in my next book and in performances throughout the next few seasons of dance.

Time to get back to the worktable,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
April 18, 2022

Thinking Like a Designer – Analyzing Style and Costuming

Research and Analysis

5 Layers of Belly Dance Costume Appearance

There is so much more to talk about such as the shapes of the costume pieces. There’s the whisp of a skirt, the shape of her belt, the choice of pink, and her jewelry styling. To find out more about the “5 Layers,” and many more strategies on how to think like a designer, come to my next talk!

Design Workshop