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Assiut/Assuit General

Who’s That Girl in Assiut: Feiruz

Taheyya Kariokka | Studio Davina • www.davina.us

During the 1950’s, the Egyptian movie industry was obsessed with Hollywood style musicals. Egyptian filmmakers developed their own style of musicals with dramatic action taking pauses for traditional songs and dances. Directors created opportunities for musical by setting scenes in entertainment venues, outside during festivals, or at celebrations.

In this 1951 movie entitled Feiruz Hanem (Mr.s Feiruz), the Egyptian child star Feyrouz appears with belly dancer Taheyya Kariokka. In this scene, Feyrouz wears a beautiful assiut shawl draped over her head while she sings and plays the riq. Her traditional floral pattern dress is peeking out from under the shawl.

It makes my researcher’s heart skip a beat when I can locate a video clip that matches a movie promotional still like the one at left and below. If you are a fan of vintage Egyptian dance clips, I highly recommend checking out Vimeo and the feed of The Classic CaroVan.  There are dozens of fantastic movie excerpts to watch and enjoy.

Over the past few years, I’ve made a Vimeo playlist of both classic and more contemporary dance performances featuring costumes made from assiut. It makes a great jumping off point for your own assiut costume research.

Feiruz Hanem

Taheya Karioka and Fairouz Arteen (1951) from TheClassicCaroVan on Vimeo.

Taheyya Kariokka | Studio Davina • www.davina.us

Here’s another promotional still of Taheyya Kariokka

Are you interested in more information about this beautifully metal embroidered fabric? There’s a lot more history in my book, “The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut.”  You might also enjoy one of the other posts in the “Who’s that Girl in Assiut” series.  Including vintage film stars Vilma Banky and Lyda Borelli.

Good luck with all of your costuming adventures!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 9, 2018

 

 

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General

DIY Pen Quiver for Journals

On a recent research trip to New York City, several people at the library noticed my custom pen quiver on my travel journal book. Earlier in the year, I became frustrated with trying to keep my pen and my journal connected. After losing my pen at the bottom of various bags or leaving it behind in coffee shops, I decided enough was enough! I had seen various different styles of pen quivers available at stationery stores and online. But I knew I could make something of my own using materials I have on hand.

As a writer, I use my journal almost daily.  Having a pen or pencil ready and at hand eliminates the frustration of not being prepared to go.  Not having to look for a writing tool saves time too. This is a small little accessory that has improved the quality of my life.

I’m working on my first novel during November’s NANOWRIMO – Read More

Because I’m in a “use it up” phase of my sewing career, I brainstormed how I could craft something from materials in my stash. I poked around my collection of materials and supplies and decided to use a left-over scrap of 1.5″ wide elastic. I spent about an hour fooling around with various ways of using this single piece of elastic to make a functional pen holder.

Tips: I keep this size elastic in my studio for waistbands and recently I’ve been buying it buy the reel from Amazon.com. I used a ballpoint needle to go through the elastic without breaking the threads. Thank you for supporting this blog by using these Amazon Affiliate links.

YouTube Instructional Video

As you may already know, I’m in the process of learning how to make instructional DIY videos.  Since this was a quick and small project, I decided to give making an instructional video a try.  So I made the video and put it on my YouTube channel.  Although I’m by no means a polished and sophisticated videographer, I think this demo gives you all the information you need to make your own pen quiver.

This simple little tool has changed the quality of my writer’s life. I no longer leave pens behind or lose them in the bottom of bags. These are easy to make, so I now have several on different notebooks.  I’ve even made a few to give as gifts. If you have a friend or family member who uses journals and notebooks, you might find this a quick and easy holiday gift. 

Happy Crafting!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
November 6, 2018

PS:  Like this idea?  Please share with your friends on your favorite social media sites.

Make a Custom Pen Quiver

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General

NaNoWriMo – Shimmy on the High Seas

Working Cover for the upcoming novel, "Shimmy on the High Seas" by Dawn "Davina" Devine

In 2018, I’m taking on the challenge of NaNoWriMo or National Novel Writing Month. Although I’ve written nearly 2 dozen books, hundreds of articles, and thousands of social media posts, until now, I’ve never attempted a work of fiction.

Inspirations

My mum initially challenged me to write a novel. It was a little over a year ago, and my schedule looked too tight to squeeze in yet another project. However, after much mulling about, I realized that perhaps I was just procrastinating. So, on her last visit to my house, we talked about this project again and decided that I would tackle this project during #Nanowrimo. NaNoWriMo heraldic crest

What is NaNoWriMo?

This challenge began many years ago, back before the turn of the century in 1999. Since then, the hosting organization has become a non-profit and includes events throughout the year. They even have challenges just for youth writers. Each year the pool of novelists grows, helping authors with support History of the NaNoWriMo challenge here.

Nanowrimo Prep Prompts50,000 Words

The challenge is simple, write a new 50,000-word novel in 30 days. The thought is to finish the month with a rough manuscript ready for editing. To achieve this goal, participants need to write 1, 667 words a day. The difficulty is in resisting the urge to edit as you go. People also need to stoke their creative fire to feel motivated and inspired to achieve a high level of production.

Preptober

Although I came up with the concept for this novel a year ago, it’s only in the past two weeks that I’ve focussed on getting the stage set to tell this story. Although I’ve never written a novel before, my research and organization skills have come in handy when planning this mythical event, describing the locations, and writing character profiles. The official Instagram feed from the @Nanowrimo Preptober Prompts 2018 on Instagramorganization featured the above right October challenge to prep before the novel writing begins.

I also found a great resource in Scotland based novelist Rachael Stephen who has a great set of prep and planning resources on her website. This year she also hosted a #Prep_toberchallenge that has simply stunning autumnal photography and thought-provoking prompts. I started in the second half of the month, but if you are interested in seeing my response to these prompts, you can check me out on Instagram.

Preptober 2018 for Nanowrimo

The Adventure Begins Nov. 1

Starting on the first, I’ll be re-arranging my schedule to add an extra hour of novel writing to my morning, and another hour in the late afternoon/early evening. My personal goal is to hit 2,000 words a day to build in time off for family visits, weekend business adventures, and Thanksgiving.

If you are interested in tracking my progress on the official Nanowrimo page, my handle there is DavinaDevine. Alternately, I’ll be posting regularly in all the usual social media places. If you’re on FaceBook, you can keep an eye out for a few live feeds throughout the month where I share my experience of tackling this challenge.

Wish me luck!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
October 23, 2018

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General

Two into One Bowling Themed Aloha Shirt Renovation

I recently attended the recent Gaslight Expo steampunk convention as a speaker and workshop leader.  I’ve been so busy over the past two months, that I really didn’t have a lot of time to invest in a new costume to fit the theme of Tiki. I knew that I had a couple of old bowling themed aloha shirts hanging in the back of the closet.  So I excavated those old shirts, gave them a wash and contemplated all of the potential things I could do with them.

Right: Sample from my 3-D Bead Embroidery Demo/Workshop

However, I was so freaking busy the three weeks before the convention I was focussed on getting a bedlah set completed for a customer and my workshop completed for the Belly Dance Bundle 2018.

Basic Aloha Bowling Shirt

I headed south to stay with my family the week before the event, and I took along the pair of shirts, thinking I would wear them as is.  I had purchased these shirts many years ago when I was a competitive bowler. Back in the day, I was so excited to have bowling themed shirts, that I bought one in each color.

Left: Blue Bowling Aloha Shirt, before the redesign

For a red-hot second, I almost abandoned the project, figuring I could just wear the shirt as-is.  But after talking to my family, they encouraged me to take an hour and do something wonderful with it. I wasn’t feeling particularly creative, but I thought I should at least try.

Taking Two Shirts and Creating One Garment

My design mind came up with a lot of complicated things to do with this shirt. First I considered using both shirts to make a dress, disregarding the shirt-shape and treating the cloth like yardage.  I didn’t think that was a reasonable 1-hour project, so I contemplated other approaches.

The next thought was to do a parti-colored shirt or dress that was half blue and half tan. This seemed like a fast way to transform the two garments into something new and different.

Redesign Process

Once I had decided to simply combine the two shirts into one, I made a simple four-step order of construction.

  1. Cut the shirts in half up the back
  2. Pin the left side of one color to the right side of the other color.
  3. Machine sew the back seam.
  4. Swap pockets.

Cut Shirts in Half:  I carefully folded each shirt up the center back. For this project, I used my mum’s fabric shears and standard pins.  I folded the shirt in half, pinned the fold in place, and cut along the fold.  You can see what the tan shirt looked after cutting the back.

Pin the back seam:  Using standard pins, I pin the left side to the right side. For straight line sewing, I like to place my pins perpendicular to the seam.  As I sew, I pull the pins, rather than sew over them.

Machine sew the back seam: My mum let me use her machine.  This Brother is what I recommend in my sewing classes for new students.  It’s a very affordable kit that includes a lot of great tools and accessories for an amazing price. It’s nice to sew on it and remind me how nice this machine is and that I’m still glad to recommend it.

Swap Pockets:  Well, since I was chatting and socializing with my mum and brother, didn’t quite make it that far!  But this detail can happen later.  I decided to stop at this place because the shirt was wearable.

If I had started to take the pockets off, I would have been committed to finishing that step, which was much bigger than the other three.  It would require spending a lot of time with a seam ripper to remove the two pockets.  Then I would have to pin the pocket into place and then carefully top-stitching it into place. I just didn’t have the time or focus to tackle this last step.

Done is Good!

As a designer, you get to decide when a project is done.  Since I committed to working for just an hour, I stopped at a good stopping point!  Although this may not have seemed like a huge change, I had so many people ask me where I got this unusual shirt.  I’m glad my mum challenged me to do something with my old shirts!

In the fullness of time, I can swap the pockets out, or just choose to leave this restyled shirt just as it is.  Either way, I had a wonderful time wearing my old/new creation.  Are there any garments in your closet that you can use as a basis for creating a new design?

I wish you luck in all of your sewing and costuming adventures!
Davina ~ Dawn Devine
Oct. 9, 2018

 

PS: Here’s a photo of my mum’s sewing machine.  She purchased it from Amazon.com using prime for around $100.  Prices vary from moment-to-moment, but here’s a link to check it out if you are in the market for a  budget sewing machine.

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General

Putting Together a Digital Workshop, “The Birth of Bedlah” – Part 2

Hello Gang!  This is part two of a series on how I put together costume history presentations. At the time of this writing, I’m in the final stages of prepping a digital workshop entitled “The Birth of Bedlah.” This lecture and handout will be available as part of the Belly Dance Bundle, a collection of digital informational products by professional teachers, dance scholars, and touring professionals from around the globe.  Visit the Bundle website for more details and a list of the amazing products included in this year’s sale.

The 2018 Belly Dance Bundle will be available for
sale for $199 the week of October 4 – 10.

Why do I enjoy participating in the Bundle?  Because it’s a STEAL of a DEAL.  It’s like attending the best workshop weekend or dance intensive from the comfort of my own living room, and on my own timeline.
Visit the Bellydance Bundle Site - Get your Free Guide

Sourcing Historic Images

Yesterday, a member of my Studio Davina Facebook Group asked where I find all of these vintage images. While I cannot go into detail about the research process, I can say that the images in this talk come from three sources.

My Private Collection

Over the past 30 odd years, I’ve been collecting vintage postcards featuring images that suit my research. Ephemera is one of the things that I actively look for in person at antique stores, yard sales, vintage shops, antique malls, swap meets, and ephemera sales. I also keep my eye peeled for postcards for sale all around the globe. Over the years, I’ve made connections with dealers who have a “wish list” and contact me when they locate items I might be interested in. This is my own ongoing treasure hunt that is one part hobby and one part business.

Sisters Siegno dance troupe - vintage postcard c. 1920's

Above: A dance troupe poses for a promotional photo in the 1920’s

Screen grab of the list of Research Libraries and Museums located in the notes app on my computer.

Research Libraries and Archives

I have conducted a great deal of research through the digital archives of major libraries, historical archives, and museums.  Some of the most useful has been the Library of Congress in Washington DC, the New York Public Library, and The National Portrait Gallery, London.  If you plan on conducting a lot of research, I recommend a little trick that I use.  I keep a “note” on my main computer and in my cloud storage with a collection of links to all of my favorite research sources along with notes to special collections in those locations.  Here’s a screen grab of part of my research list.

General Internet Image Searches

There are two main places where I perform digital image searches on the web, Google and Pinterest.  Most of the visual material that I’m looking for are in the public domain.  When I source an image I will do one of three things:

  • If it’s available for sale, I buy an original or copy.
  • If it’s on a non-commercial website, I’ll save the full page citation to Evernote.
  • If it’s in a major holding or collection, I only save the image, link, and citation.

Over the years, I’ve seen personal hobby websites come and go.  Beautiful private collections will sometime disappear when a domain registration lapses or life gets in the way.  I pay for cloud storage so that I will be able to preserve not only the image but the context in which it was shared.

Prepping Images

Here’s a great example of what I do to prep images.  One of the images I wanted to create was a casual collage of six postcards.  I choose six different “Salome” pictures to use as part of this particular lecture.

For more info on my Salome collection check out this blog post

I laid the postcards out on a table and arranged them until I had a nice composition. To keep the eye moving around the image, I choose the top left and right images to face inwards to the center of the composition.  The rest are all ladies who are looking directly at the camera.

Scan the Images

For the best quality image results, I took the time to scan the selected images.  Scanned images are crisper, cleaner, and essential for achieving print-quality 300 dpi images. This step is a bit “extra” for a web video. But since I was flipping through all of these images anyways, I took the time to scan.  Future me will be grateful!

Photoshop Edits

These postcards vary in color from a light cream to a deeper sepia hue.  To make them more uniform, I changed the photo to black-and-white.  This creates the more uniform look I was aiming for. To further improve the legibility of the images, I adjusted the contrast.  Next, I brightened up the top right-hand corner, lightening the table with a highlight tool. The last step was to use the crop tool to tighten up the image.

Once all the images are selected, scanned, and prepped, I then plunk them into the slide deck.  Next on the list is working on the video portion of the workshop so keep your eyes peeled for the third in this series.

Now – off to put on some makeup and shoot some video!

Happy Dance and Costume,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Sept. 27, 2018

Read Part One of the “Birth of Bedlah” Putting Together a Workshop Series.