Categories
Costuming DIY General

Studio Davina – Cutting Arsenal pt. 1

Studio Davina: Cutting Arsenal - scissors & shears

Studio Davina
Sewing Tool Kit, Pt. 1
Cutting Arsenal

In the next few posts, I’m going to take you through some of the tools I simply cannot do without!  I’m starting with cutting tools, as my students often ask, “what kind of scissors should I buy?”  Below is my list of my favorites.

Scissors vs. Shears

The difference between scissors and shears is the length of the blade.  Scissors is a generic term that relates to the style of cutting tool, with two blades, that are connected by a fulcrum point.  Shears are a subset of scissors and generally have blades that are 7″ or longer. In the image to the right, the three pair of shears are at the top, and my three favorite pairs of scissors are at the bottom.  There is also a lone pair of snips, third from the bottom.

Favorite Scissors

For ease of discussion, I’m going to start at the bottom with my smallest tools and work upwards toward my largest.  Although I do own a variety of brands, I find that I gravitate towards Gingher as a matter of personal taste. Gingher is a German brand of scissors, shears, snips and all manner of cutting tools. I started using Gingher shears when I was in fashion school and I can attest to their longevity.  They have survived the making of thousands of garments and and as they wear out, I’m replacing them with the same styles.

Decorative Embroidery Scissors  (Image: Bottom)
One of the tools that I find myself picking up when I’m doing a lot of bead embroidery, or disassembling costumes are a pair of gold-handled “stork” shaped embroidery scissors.  These scissors can get into tiny places that my regular scissors just can’t reach.  A length of ribbon through both handles allows me to put these around my neck to have at hand immediately no matter which work-station I’m using. I buy affordable versions of these scissors because I have been known to give them away to folks who admire them at costuming events. http://amzn.to/2wmtrBD

5-inch Craft Scissors (Image: Fourth from Bottom)
When I purchased these scissors, they went by the name of “Tailor’s Points.” These sturdy, handy pointed scissors are my favorite for precision pattern cutting, trimming in small places and general clean-up work, especially when working on tailored garments.  http://amzn.to/2vcxB0u

6” Duck Billed Applique Scissors (Image: Second from the Bottom)
These are the best scissors for trimming seam allowances and when making beaded appliqué on lace and net. Although these are not my most used scissors, I do use them often! http://amzn.to/2hPoEFZ

Thread Cutting Snips

4.5 Inch knife edge thread nippers (Image: Third from Bottom)
One of the ways that I can keep my sewing productivity high is to use a pair of thread snips.  Although they may seem unessential, I find a good pair of snips will speed up the time spent machine sewing.  I can pick them up without having to wind my fingers through any holes.  Just squeeze to snip your thread.  If you think about how many times you pick up and set down a pair of scissors, you will see the value of a pair of snips. http://amzn.to/2vcFtiC

Fabric Cutting Shears

8-Inch – Knife Edge Dressmaker’s Shears (Image: Top Center)
The workhorse in my collection, this is my second pair in a 30-year costuming career. I find I use these on the daily for cutting fabric and patterns.  Useful, dependable, with great longevity. http://amzn.to/2wmVam0

10-inch – Bent Handled Trimmers (Image: Top Right)
When I need something big and beefy for cutting out thick brocades, upholstery fabric, and heavy weight buckram, these are the shears I reach for. http://amzn.to/2vf9mgo

Kai 8” Dressmaking Shears (Image: Top Left)
Lightweight, yet super-sharp from a Japanese company that also makes high-grade kitchen utensils.  When I saw that the manufacturer of my favorite Santoku knife also made sewing shears, I had to have a pair. Sewing shears – http://amzn.to/2fn5giF  Santuko knife – http://amzn.to/2uzmye7

Tips for Building Your Cutting Arsenal

But you may ask, “Where do I begin?”  And I really think a seamstress could get by with one pair of 7″ – 8″ bent handled fabric shears.  They are useful for cut fabric, trimming garments, and clipping threads.  You might find these shears a bit unwieldy in tight locations, but you can get the job done.  When you are ready to buy a second pair, pick a good quality small pair of craft or embroidery scissors.

Tools will be with you through the construction of many garments, so invest in the best quality you can afford. If you think you might like a particular style of scissors or shears, pick up an affordable pair and try it out.  If it becomes an essential tool in your kit, then upgrade to better quality.

If you got all the way to the bottom of this list, I want to thank you!
Best of luck putting together and refining your own sewing kit.
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Aug. 10, 2017

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Etsy Store – Pattern Sale & Free Shipping Feb 2017

Davina aka Dawn Devine with Lynette Harris, Editor of the Gilded Serpent Magazine and Miles Copeland Impresario of Belly Dance Super Stars.For more than 15 years, I lived the vendor life. Traveling to events, setting up my books and selling other items at belly dance shows along the West Coast, from Portland to San Diego and as far east as Las Vegas. The travel was exciting!  I met a lot of wonderful people, had some great travel experiences, and sold a lot of books and patterns. It was fun and hard work, but I had a blast!

Right: Me hanging out with Lynette Harris of Gilded Serpent and Miles Copeland of Belly Dance Superstars at MECDA’s Cairo Caravan on the Queen Mary, 2013.

To round out my product line, I carried a selection of patterns by the likes of Madame X, Tempest, and selected items from the Caravan Collection from Folkwear.  Many costumers enjoy the ease of grabbing a pattern, cutting it out, and making a beautiful garment.  Although my books are great guides for making costumes from taking measurements to stepping on the stage, I’m frequently asked for recommendations on patterns to simplify the process.

Davina's Book Rack c. 2005However, at some point, I misplaced my pattern bucket!  It somehow got dropped into a box and put into a closet, unlabelled, unloved and completely forgotten. I still do local events, but over the past few years, I have only taken books and accessories.  So in January, when I was doing a “New Year, New Me” themed “clean up,” I located my old pattern bin.

Left: The Ibexa Press book rack c. 2005.  I had just added the Tempest Corset Belt to my collection.

But the truth of the matter is I’ve drastically scaled back my vending activities, and only participate in single-day, local events and take a more scaled down booth.  Easy to set up and tear down, and perfect for tucking into small spaces.  I enjoy having a place where people can stop by and say hi, check out my latest books and show me their latest costume creations!   But these days, my book line is so expanded, that I don’t really have space for patterns on my rack.

Right: Dawn Devine ~ Davina and Author/Teacher/Performer Sara Shrapnell at Sudeep’s Bay Area Belly, 2015.

Since I wrote off these patterns years ago, I’ve decided to sell all the patterns and booklets found in my “pattern bucket” at wholesale or less!  So, to facilitate this sale, I’m loading all the items onto my etsy store and offering my usual Free Shipping in February sale.  So if you’re in the market for a belly dance costume pattern, check out this sale!

Now, for the rest of the day, I’ll be uploading patterns to my Etsy store.  A perfect activity for a rainy winter afternoon!  If you’re planning your costume projects for 2017 or just want to window shop some cool belly dance patterns, click on the banner above and it will take you right to my shop!  If you have any questions about the patterns – use the etsy messaging system to drop me a line and I will get back to you in a jiffy!

Happy Costuming in 2017!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Feb. 1, 2017

 

 

Categories
Belly Dance Costuming DIY

Egyptian Pressed Coin Trim with beads

Egyptian Pressed Coin Trim with beads
Step-by-Step DIY tutorial

This is a classic technique for applying pressed coins to any costume piece. This method is great for edge finishes, but works equally well when stitched to the surface of the garment.

These photos are from a major assuite project I’ve been working on for the past few months. These head-to-toe ensembles are composed of a purchased assuite robe, and custom bra and belt sets. Along with a black bra and a pair of black harem pants, these five pieces create three fantastic head-to-toe looks.

The assuite robes were purchased on the internet. These robes didn’t fit very well, being exceptionally boxy. Our goal was to transform the robes, reshaping them into beladi dresses by nipping in the waist, reshaping the sleeves and neckline and adding coin trim to the hem and sleeves. The trim adds movement, shine and the lovely light tinkling sound we associate with Egyptian coin costumes. This last step is documented in this tutorial.

Materials:
Pressed Metal Coins – These coins were purchased via the internet (Check eBay for best prices – but don’t forget to shop your vendor friends to support your local dance community!) They come in a variety of sizes, this .5″ diameter coin is pretty standard and widely available. Rule of thumb – the bigger the coin – the less time spent sewing! How do you calculate how much you need? Measure all your edges. Lay-out how dense you want the coins to appear when you are done. Measure how many coins per inch. In this case, I needed 70″ of hem per dress. I wanted the coins to be 2 per inch, so I needed 140 coins per dress. But always buy more – I recommend double what you need! Why? Well, these are pressed metal, which means the hole you will be sewing through is really sharp. These coins will cut through the threads faster than you can say yallah, so keep a pile in reserve to make repairs.

Beads – Stitching through a bead allows the coins to flip and twist and are the key to allowing enough movement to create that light musical jingling sound. Because I prefer to stitch using a milliners needle, I try to buy beads with large holes. These were purchased inexpensively from a local craft store. Any small sized bead will work for this purpose including seed beads and rocailles.

Thread – The sturdier the thread, the more resistant to cutting and breaking your finished work will be. I like using a heavy weight button twist or an upholstery thread. Nylon thread will be more cut resistant than cotton. Rayon thread is the most delicate and I recommend avoiding. I once new a dancer who liked to work with kevlar thread for this kind of work. This thread is the strongest in the world, has a high price tag and is difficult to work with. But she never lost a coin! For this project, I’m using upholstery thread.

Needle – Your beads will determine the type and style of needle you choose to work with. I bought large seed beads to accommodate my needle and because they are easier to work with and add a little bit more shine when done. get needles that will easily pass through the beads you have.

Other items – Other tools you will need complete this project, you will also need a pair of scissors and I highly recommend using a thimble. I also recommend using beeswax or thread conditioner to help keep your thread from twisting or knotting as you stitch. You might want to measure and mark your stitching locations using chalk and a tape measure or ruler to measure.

Order of Construction:

First Coin - Pull thread from back to front.
Pull thread through bead.
Next, run needle through the coin. At this point, you want your coin facing up, though, they will be able to flip around, it's a good habit to be consistant in the positioning of your trims
Pull your thread back up and through the bead again.
Run your needle through the cloth and knot. Don't pull the thread too tightly, or the coin will not bounce and move. Also, if the thread is too tight, there is more chance that the coin will cut through the thread.
Once you've knotted the thread above the coin, use a slip-stitch to move to your next location. With assuite, you can really see the needle sliding through the fold made by the hem.

The final result, an edge finish with that touch of Egyptian bounce, shine and musical jingle.

Pack a repair kit – Pressed coins are sharp where the hole is punched. This style of coin will slice through the thread over time. Since you’re stitching this yourself, you can prepare a kit to mend and repair your costume as needed.

Top Tip – Recycled candy tins are my favorite way to store specialized repair kits. I use inexpensive bobbins so matching thread is available without hunting for everything. Be sure to label your tin with a quick hand-written label or get fancy with a photo of yourself decoupaged to the top.